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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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AlternARGHtorsViews : 988 Replies : 9Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Dec 10th, 2014, 23:42 | #1 |
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AlternARGHtors
My 4th alternator in 5 years has died. I think it's time to fit something from a modern car instead of the supposedly correct ones from Brookhouse.
Any recommendations?
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1967 Volvo 121 Auto in everyday use and rolling restoration. 2002 Audi TT quattro. (Sorry!) |
Dec 11th, 2014, 11:02 | #2 |
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Wooo…that's either incredibly bad luck or it's due to something else being wrong…Is your belt alignment right? What goes wrong with the alternators you've had? Lots of discussion on here about alternator options…best of luck.
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Dec 11th, 2014, 11:11 | #3 |
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I agree with A69...if they all failed in the same way, that's telling you you have something wrong with the installation!
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Dec 11th, 2014, 12:41 | #4 |
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OK, from memory here is my catalogue of alternator failures...
1. Non-standard unit came with the car, had been badly modified and the mounting lug sheared off. Otherwise, worked fine.... 2. 55A unit with built-in regulator supplied by Brookhouse: regulator failed on a long journey, boiling the battery, after about 3 months. 3. 55A unit as above, stopped charging. From memory it was only a couple of months old, and Simon replaced it for free. 4. 35A unit with external regulator, supplied by Brookhouse. Didn't fail but couldn't keep up with winter charging loads - never put out more than 13.3V and this dropped to about 12.3V when all the loads were switched on. 5. 55A unit (Simon said they had had a batch with one or two duds, but these were a different batch) - to be fair this one has lasted me over a year, maybe 18 months, but that's still only about 6,000 miles. Bearing has been getting noisy, charging become patchy, has now stopped charging. So, very little pattern there. I can also tell you that during this time I have checked and double-checked the earth straps, totally overhauled the fuse box, added and then removed electronic ignition....and as far as I can see there is no electrical fault. There is a very slight 'wriggle' in the alignment of the three pulleys, maybe 2mm, but I've been careful with the belt tension - I accept this might wear the alt bearing a bit, but the first three alts were on the previous engine, so that alignment would have been different for the earlier failures anyway. Anyway, I'm looking for an alternative unit that isn't from the same source, so I'd welcome your recommendations!
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1967 Volvo 121 Auto in everyday use and rolling restoration. 2002 Audi TT quattro. (Sorry!) |
Dec 11th, 2014, 15:48 | #5 |
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Perhaps more to the point. who makes these "special" alternators that Simon supplies?
Have you fitted it on the fuel pump side with the Brookhouse kit, with one of the special IPD/Scandcar brackets, a modified dynamo one or a home brew bracket? I've been looking at GM ones as fitted to older Astras and Corsas with built in regulators but would probably prefer one with the top mount/adjuster lug a bit further towards the block than the normal 180º alignment. This is for dynamo side mounting. |
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Dec 11th, 2014, 21:53 | #6 |
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You've certainly had some bad luck.. I've been running a 55 from simon for the last 4 years and 25 k miles without issue. Hope you crack it this time
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Dec 11th, 2014, 21:55 | #7 |
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The bracket looks intentional, so I assume it is an approved modification - it's on the fuel pump side.
Just been chatting to 123GT-AMAZON who reckons the alts from the 240 are robust and a good option, but I'm certainly interested in other options too - those GM engines are bulletproof so I guess their alternators are too.
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1967 Volvo 121 Auto in everyday use and rolling restoration. 2002 Audi TT quattro. (Sorry!) |
Dec 11th, 2014, 22:27 | #8 |
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Sounds like you've had quite a run of bad luck - hope you are able to get it sorted easily. Whilst I've never taken voltage readings, I've always found the 35A alternator (in my case, an OEM Volvo spec Bosch unit) to be more than sufficient all year round, even running a modern stereo & an extra pair of front lights. The only thing that causes the Amp light to glow is the heater fan. Everything else (& I mean everything else- all front lights, inc main beam, rear fogs, wipers and stereo) can be switched on & the Amp light behaves itself. However, even though I usually keep the heater fan on (& thus the Amp light glowing), I not had any starting or running problems.
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Dec 11th, 2014, 23:09 | #9 | |
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Dec 14th, 2014, 15:10 | #10 |
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I have had great service from the tiny Nippon Denso 40A unit fitted in place of the dynamo. Like V70 Geoff, I had to make up my own bracket though.
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Mike Arnold. 1966 122S |
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