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AWD oil changes advice

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Old Aug 29th, 2017, 21:33   #1
Paul86
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Default AWD oil changes advice

Hi

I am planning on changing the Bevel Gear, AOC, and Rear Final Drive oils on my 08 xc90. As far as I can find on VIDA the only detailed information I can find about checking the level is for the AOC, under (remove, replace, install section 4.46 active on demand coupling fluid level check) this states to remove 40Ml of fluid at the end. However for the other two the only referrals I can find are part of the install procedure and says to check the levels, it does not mention how to check the level, or as documented on the internet that a set quantity of fluid should be removed after filling.

Does anyone know where I can find the level checks on VIDA for the Bevel Gear and Rear Final Drive? As I do not want to be removing fluid on someone else's say so.
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Old Aug 29th, 2017, 22:09   #2
Father Ted
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I will watch this with interest as I want to do the same.
I think I've found the fill point on the bevel gear. Haven't looked at rear diff yet.
The Haynes manual is next to useless (I remember the days when these were the DIY mechanic's bible!), it just say to check the level, but doesn't say where or how.
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Old Aug 30th, 2017, 07:33   #3
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Originally Posted by Paul86 View Post
Hi

I am planning on changing the Bevel Gear, AOC, and Rear Final Drive oils on my 08 xc90. As far as I can find on VIDA the only detailed information I can find about checking the level is for the AOC, under (remove, replace, install section 4.46 active on demand coupling fluid level check) this states to remove 40Ml of fluid at the end. However for the other two the only referrals I can find are part of the install procedure and says to check the levels, it does not mention how to check the level, or as documented on the internet that a set quantity of fluid should be removed after filling.

Does anyone know where I can find the level checks on VIDA for the Bevel Gear and Rear Final Drive? As I do not want to be removing fluid on someone else's say so.
The fill plug on my 06 xc70 is on the top nearside housing that joins the haldex to the diff.
If you can remove the filter easily on the haldex you should change that and clean the gauze on the motor.
I haven't done either yet as it requires dropping the exhaust and prop to get to the filter on a xc70 like mine.
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Old Aug 30th, 2017, 16:26   #4
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Thanks for the reply, I know where the fill plugs are on the car, I want to check on VIDA what the level should be filled to. For the AOC VIDA says to remove 40ml after filling, but for the Bevel gear and final drive it does not say to remove any, the only reference I can find about checking their levels is in the installation process and it just says check level, and refers you to the lubrication page where the oil types and part numbers are. However on the internet people say you should remove oil from them as well, but I can find no reference of this on VIDA.
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Old Aug 30th, 2017, 23:10   #5
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I changed my oils on my 2004 AWD v70 R several years back. IIRC there is no recommended mileage to change the oil in the components you describe. Its like the Auto gear box - Volvo says sealed for life, except prudence says its not.
All the components I refilled were filled to the point where oil began to seep out of the filler hole with the car on a level surface, except the Haldex unit from which I removed 100ml after the seepage had stopped. I did this after reading on the Web about issues with pressure and that removal of that amount of oil solved the issue.
Since changing my oils as described above the car has run fine. I used Volvo branded oils.
I smile about Volvo's attitude to the Haldex unit. Audi/VW ( who used basically the same unit ) recommended oil/filter changes every 10/20K. Call me a cynic, but perhaps because the Volvo requires the exhaust & prop to be removed @ n hours x £100/hr labour, to gain access to the filter. Its simpler to say sealed its for life lol

That said I've read a article about changing the Haldex filter without removing the exhaust and prop - use of a cut down allen key and 1/4" drivers. The Haldex pump however is a 100% deffo prop/exhaust off job.
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Last edited by 100K+; Aug 30th, 2017 at 23:12.
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Old Aug 30th, 2017, 23:43   #6
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I smile about Volvo's attitude to the Haldex unit. Audi/VW ( who used basically the same unit ) recommended oil/filter changes every 10/20K.
We have a VW Tiguan with the phase 4 Haldex unit and VW say to change the oil every 40,000 miles and they do not change the filter. They do not even list it as a part. The dealer did the first change early when I bought the car at 30,000. I changed the oil and filter at 70,000 and I was glad I did. I had to buy the filter off a Haldex dealer on eBay.
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Old Aug 31st, 2017, 08:19   #7
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I also agree that the oils should be changed and that Volvo is probably being lazy / wanting it to break so they have to replace it.

As for getting the pump off there is a guy on youtube who has managed to do it on a volvo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZNC06Z7imQ&t=1093s

I intend on doing it this way to get as much oil out as possible, but I need to have a look to see if I can get to the filter and pump on my xc90 with out removing the shaft and exhaust, it will be a job for over the next few months as I need to replace the windscreen, front engine mount (this weekend), and potentially an injector which has a high Fuel correction rate at twice the recommended limit. I have not looked at the return rate yet, but it did have a miss fire fault code on that cylinder the other day but it has not come back, it just runs a little rough at idle especially on cold startup.

The joys of trying to maintain a car, anyway thanks for your help guys I shall be adding this to my service schedule every few years.
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Old Aug 31st, 2017, 14:43   #8
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I have done this on my 04 s60r and I highly recommend doing it. The colour of the oils you remove compared to new will tell you why they need changing. You will need to pump out the old fluid and pump in the new as there are no drain plugs. I replaced the haldex filter without prop or exhaust removal. Fiddly but possible. The top bolt is the issue as there is so little space.
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Old Aug 31st, 2017, 18:45   #9
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Assuming there are no leaks and that the current level is correct, is it not just a case of draining X amount out and re-fill it with the same amount of fresh fluid?

Having had a right stuggle getting the correct level on an automatic gearbox after changing the ATF, I would always use use the 'replace what you remove' approach for any future task.
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Old Oct 12th, 2018, 18:41   #10
Paul86
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Sorry I can't send you a PM as I have not done 30 posts.

I never changed the oils on the AWD as I sold the car prior to doing it.

My only suggestions are to follow the YouTube video I posted but obviously there are no guarantees that it is correct, or as someone Simon Jones pointed out if there does not appear to be any leaks simply measure how much you remove and top back up the same amount.


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