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volts drop

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Old Oct 3rd, 2013, 22:38   #1
pacman67
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Default volts drop

Started noticing that when slowing down headlights dim slightly then brighten back up. Ran the torque app on volts test tonight and found that volts drop momentarily to 12 then back up to 13.5. On tickover it's a steady 13.5, but rev and as engine returns back to idle volts drop to 12 then return to 13.5. Obviously an alternator issue of some kind and I seem to remember reading about the voltage regulator being an issue. Previous owner mentioned he'd had the alternator clutch changed.
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Old Oct 4th, 2013, 14:00   #2
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Hello, It sounds like the alternator is able to do its job and that the "switching" to and from 13.5V is delayed. At the very least, it's not smooth. That does point to the regulator. Since the P.O. had the freewheel changed I'd suspect the alternator was getting on in years. Pull the alternator and have the whole thing checked out by a competent shop. Find a rebuilder near you. They may just have a swap-out waiting for you on a shelf.

Also, have any battery of any age at all load tested for condition. At the VERY LEAST charge it up out of the car.

Do this now as Winter is coming. Kira

Last edited by Georgeandkira; Oct 4th, 2013 at 14:00. Reason: Winter Warning
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Old Oct 4th, 2013, 20:33   #3
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Was wondering if I'd get away with a volt regulator as opposed to a full alternator swap out.
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Old Oct 4th, 2013, 22:18   #4
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Had similar problems with my S60, lights flickering, dashboard display flickering and irregular rev behavior. Changed the alternator regulator and all cured. If I remember, it was £40, , ,or was it 60 ?
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Old Oct 4th, 2013, 22:39   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossi-fan View Post
Had similar problems with my S60, lights flickering, dashboard display flickering and irregular rev behavior. Changed the alternator regulator and all cured. If I remember, it was £40, , ,or was it 60 ?
That's the sort of thing I read, was it a alternator removal or fitted in situ ?
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Old Oct 5th, 2013, 08:15   #6
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Not sure, I believe a few other parts had to be moved out of the way so they could get at it properly.
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Old Oct 5th, 2013, 08:16   #7
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You might want to consider changing the battery. I had the headlights dropping at idle for years. I replaced the battery with a good quality Bosch at a higher AH and the issue went away.

I confess I don't know why this happened as I would have thought the battery is not involved once the engine is running, nevertheless that is what happened.
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Old Oct 5th, 2013, 08:36   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volvo2 View Post
You might want to consider changing the battery. I had the headlights dropping at idle for years. I replaced the battery with a good quality Bosch at a higher AH and the issue went away.

I confess I don't know why this happened as I would have thought the battery is not involved once the engine is running, nevertheless that is what happened.
Yes change the battery by all means, but start with the cheaper options first, you can always get the battery checked.
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Old Oct 5th, 2013, 11:36   #9
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Changed battery with one from my t4 to compare and gave it a charge first, problem still persists.
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Old Oct 5th, 2013, 16:18   #10
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Hello, That's good. Now compare the work of changing the regulator while the alternator is still in the car with simply removing the alternator and checking it out in broad daylight (on a bench). If your alternator is old enough to have had its freewheel go bad then you should consider the high likelihood of the bearings being near the end of their lives. I was always told that when a car gets old, "don't patch". Kira
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