Apexi v's FSE

[Pedro Fandango]

for a while now i've had a FSE adjustable fuel regulator on BT's list of future mods, but i've just stumbled across this from Apexi (http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_ele...=260&pageNum=1) & was wondering if this would be better/suitable to increase the fuel. I'm already going to get a decent AFR gauge so i can keep track of the fuelling but didn't know which way would be better to go?

i assume the Apexi manipulates the signal voltage from the MAF, fooling the ecu into raising/lowering the fuel input

[Jod T5]

Originally Posted by Pedro Fandango

I'm already going to get a decent AFR gauge so i can keep track of the fuelling but didn't know which way would be better to go?

i assume the Apexi manipulates the signal voltage from the MAF, fooling the ecu into raising/lowering the fuel input

of course the fueling will only allow what the regulator will..., it would be very interesting to be able to compare the AFR between Psi and the max fueling allowed by the regulator/injector (stock) size....
cheers
jod

[Pedro Fandango]

yeh i get what you mean mate, but by fooling the ecu into thinking more air is going in than it actually is (which is all the Apexi does) i guess the ecu would increase the injector rate to add more fuel. Where as the FSE increases the rail pressure so more fuel is forced thru at the same injector rate

with the boost controller i've got you can wire it to 1 of the injectors & it tells you at what percentage there working at, as you say knowing the AFR, boost & injector duty could show some very interesting stuff

[Jod T5]

Duane having read the link in more detail it does refer to MAP readings/pressure, im not sure you will get the full benefit of this product, the t5 being based on flow/density rate but it may offer some descent info run in conjunction with the EBC...
dooby put a post up saying his new front lambda came with a "point" for a afr meter, some im after one of those, a gauge a higher rated pump and adjustable fse..keepwinding up the boost and fueling till the afr says stop...lol i think that will give me fair indication as to the max fueling/psi of the stock injectors...Dont forget Bracer was running IIRO 26psi out of his 15g!!!
cheers
jod

[Pedro Fandango]

i didn't think domestic lamba's are wideband tho mate? this is the sort of think i was looking at http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/produc...code=STAST3401, it comes complete with its own Lamba which you can easily get welded in

you've got the same idea as me, keep winding it up till the AFR says "STOP". The Apexi isn't much dearer than an FSE so still swinging that way tbh (more screens & buttons lol). BT's getting 19t'd soon, 2bar here we come lol

[dooby]

Sounds like I might need some educating :-)

I have assumed (perhaps incorrectly) that I can just take the sensor positive wire from my standard Bosch Lambda probe (Bosch part number 0258005097). I plumbed that into a £25 Auto Gauge AFR meter, the type with 20 LEDs from green through orange and red.

The instructions indicated it'd take a moment until the sensor was hot enough to register anything useful (it did) and that then, under idle it'd flick from looking very rich to stoich and back (it did). They waid this would be the ECU constantly adapting the mix at idle.

I then took it for a run, and the results seemed believable - but then maybe I don't know what they *should* have been!

Is this unlikely to be working the way I think it is?

Thanks, Pete

[Pedro Fandango]

Originally Posted by dooby

Sounds like I might need some educating :-)

I have assumed (perhaps incorrectly) that I can just take the sensor positive wire from my standard Bosch Lambda probe (Bosch part number 0258005097). I plumbed that into a £25 Auto Gauge AFR meter, the type with 20 LEDs from green through orange and red.

The instructions indicated it'd take a moment until the sensor was hot enough to register anything useful (it did) and that then, under idle it'd flick from looking very rich to stoich and back (it did). They waid this would be the ECU constantly adapting the mix at idle.

I then took it for a run, and the results seemed believable - but then maybe I don't know what they *should* have been!

Is this unlikely to be working the way I think it is?

Thanks, Pete

my bro did basically as you said on his Mitsi VR4 & it was useless, the LEDS just kept sweeping everywhere & not measuring anything.

i'm going to invest in one from Demon Tweeks with a seperate Lamba just to be safe

[Engineer]

Originally Posted by dooby

Sounds like I might need some educating :-)

I have assumed (perhaps incorrectly) that I can just take the sensor positive wire from my standard Bosch Lambda probe (Bosch part number 0258005097). I plumbed that into a £25 Auto Gauge AFR meter, the type with 20 LEDs from green through orange and red.

The instructions indicated it'd take a moment until the sensor was hot enough to register anything useful (it did) and that then, under idle it'd flick from looking very rich to stoich and back (it did). They waid this would be the ECU constantly adapting the mix at idle.

I then took it for a run, and the results seemed believable - but then maybe I don't know what they *should* have been!

Is this unlikely to be working the way I think it is?

Thanks, Pete

Pete, you need a wideband Lambda sensor mate which you can replace your narrow band with or fit as an additional unit, see link loads of info here..

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/index.html

[RiPsTa33]

THIS kit uses the Bosch LSU-4 wideband sensor but it will also give you a narrow band signal for the ecu at the same time. It also measures EGT's and AFR and displays them both on the same gauge. Best to contact them as they will take less than the asking price for it.

[lil_me]

I used a wideband on mine when i was setting mbc after sorting other things out on it, then when i knew it was ok i invested in one of these,

http://www.3barracing.com/product_3.htm

means i'm just looking for a colour projected onto the dashboard instead of trying to read numbers etc. only reads where you need it and simple to understand, also means i can use the wideband on oyher stuff i'm playing with at the time.