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High idle after ETM clean 2.4 non turbo engine B5422S

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Old Feb 22nd, 2011, 00:25   #11
grass hopper
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try leaving the battery connected and remove the fuse for the ecm for 1 hour or so,this should reset adaptation.
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Old Feb 22nd, 2011, 01:21   #12
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try leaving the battery connected and remove the fuse for the ecm for 1 hour or so,this should reset adaptation.
Is there any danger of an electrical transient damaging the ECM when removing or reinserting the fuse?

What is the ambient temperature when the vheicle is being started? If the engine is really cold, this could be proper behaviour.

I doubt that shifting into gear once a day with the engine running 1200 to 1400 rpm would damage the transmission. But continuing to disconnect and reconnect the battery could do some damage. After all there is a special procedure for disconnecting and reconnecting the battery designed to reduce electrical transients.

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Old Feb 22nd, 2011, 11:34   #13
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Is there any danger of an electrical transient damaging the ECM when removing or reinserting the fuse?

What is the ambient temperature when the vheicle is being started? If the engine is really cold, this could be proper behaviour.

I doubt that shifting into gear once a day with the engine running 1200 to 1400 rpm would damage the transmission. But continuing to disconnect and reconnect the battery could do some damage. After all there is a special procedure for disconnecting and reconnecting the battery designed to reduce electrical transients.
no,never any problems over the years,did it many times.
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Old Feb 22nd, 2011, 18:17   #14
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I did that already. I did follow princepugh advice as per link, but hasn't done the trick. In some other post I found that I might need to leave ignition on for 10 minutes and the restart it, will try that tomorrow. Thank you everyone for information will keep you updated so someone else might get use out of this.
You have to drive the car around and it can take a few seperate journeys to adapt .
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Old Feb 22nd, 2011, 21:21   #15
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You have to drive the car around and it can take a few seperate journeys to adapt .
I did drove the car at least 200 motorway miles and 100 in town before posting this. As advised by someone I did checked oxygen (o2) sensor now through diagnostic (elm327) and found that its not fluctuating and stays at 0.5v permanently. Will try tomorrow to see live data on launch or autodiagnos just to make sure and will check heater circuit. How ever I very doubt that will affect its idle, unless its because of too reach mixture because of lambda sending wrong signal...
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Old Feb 22nd, 2011, 21:31   #16
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Just done some more test which was see lambda reading at higher (3000rpm) speed. And found that it start to respond, but in very short intervals like 0.485-0.550 which I guess it only can mean that sensor is faulty. I might swap first and second sensors for testing purposes (in most cases they same apart from wiring migh be different lenght) before spending money for a new one.
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Old Feb 22nd, 2011, 23:12   #17
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If you can get the code off the sensor, I think I have a used one which you might wish to try. Also, worth checking it's an OEM (Volvo (Bosch)) unit as I think some of the cheaper after market ones can be naff - could even be the wrong type someone has fitted, although again you might expect it to have thrown a code.
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Old Feb 23rd, 2011, 18:38   #18
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If you can get the code off the sensor, I think I have a used one which you might wish to try. Also, worth checking it's an OEM (Volvo (Bosch)) unit as I think some of the cheaper after market ones can be naff - could even be the wrong type someone has fitted, although again you might expect it to have thrown a code.
OK, when I start driving the car sensors actually starts to jump up and down between 0.2 and 0.8 making average of ~0.5v which is good. Interesting it doesn't do it at idle like its not heating up enough. Maybe its the heating element which is not heating the sensor good enough. Also checked my timing belt marks and its all OK. Sorry for my wrong information that my car has a Titania o2 sensor, I actually was wrong and identified it by wires LOL.

Can't think of anything else. Will see how can I test it before buying new one as really don't want to through money away as saving for a LPG conversion

Last edited by the5ame; Feb 23rd, 2011 at 20:08.
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Old Feb 23rd, 2011, 22:16   #19
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OK - I have an old (but working) Lambda sensor Volvo 8627750, Bosch 0258007070 should that be compatible with your car; and you should you need it for testing purposes.
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Old Feb 24th, 2011, 13:21   #20
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OK - I have an old (but working) Lambda sensor Volvo 8627750, Bosch 0258007070 should that be compatible with your car; and you should you need it for testing purposes.

Hi, how much do you want for it? Send me your paypal details (PM) so we can make a deal. Also it doesn't let me send PM's as I don't have 30posts yet , even the heating circuit is not working that doesn't matter as I only needs to see if it flickers the voltage.
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