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Clutch position sensor

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Old Aug 14th, 2019, 11:54   #11
SteveSarre
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Hi DCW,

I will PM you in a minute.

What were the symptoms that you experienced?

When you bought the new CPS did you just plug it in and everything went back to the way it should be?

Steve
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Old Aug 14th, 2019, 12:07   #12
SteveSarre
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Hi all

Reporting back.

I had recently fitted a new Clutch Pedal Position Sensor but it failed after a week or so.
I couldn't take it back to the supplier because I had had it on the shelf for a year or so.

ETS light was on.
Performance seemed to be down.

I measured the extended and compressed resistances and they were out of acceptable range (which triggered the ETS light).

I took the sensor out, measure the supply voltage (5 volts as expected), cleaned the tracks, but that didn't change the resistance.

I then drilled a small hole in the casing and soldered two thin wires to the connector pins inside the casing. Then I soldered a potentiometer as a variable resistor.
Setting the potentiometer to about 7k ohms brought the track back into range.

Plugged everything back in, cleared codes and car is running the way it should again.

I did a test run with hard acceleration and compared before and after:

With faulty CPS
Max turbo control valve duty cycle 49%
Max boost pressure 1460 hPa
Max mass air flow 520 kg/h

With fixed CPS
Max turbo control valve duty cycle 100%
Max boost pressure 2550 hPa
Max mass air flow 1020 kg/h

Much better.

Hope that helps,
Steve
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Old Aug 14th, 2019, 13:17   #13
cheshired5
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Whilst I haven't checked every technical section for every model which uses the identical CPS, the acceptable depressed resistances do vary wildly from 200-400ohms on mine to 200-1000 ohms on others.
Perhaps pedal travel distance between models and engines plays a part here.

The only constant is the upper resistance figure when extended is around 2500ohms across the board so if anyone buys a new sensor, before installing (and even whilst still at the parts counter) they would do well to take a multimeter and measure the extended resistance.

If it's 4000+ ohms, ask for another or expect to have similar issues to those you encountered Steve.
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Old Aug 14th, 2019, 14:43   #14
SteveSarre
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Hi C

Apparently there was a software update in 2006 which reduces the sensitivity to out of range values.

It wasn't installed on my car.


Steve
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Old Aug 14th, 2019, 15:07   #15
cheshired5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSarre View Post
Apparently there was a software update in 2006 which reduces the sensitivity to out of range values.
I can see how that would allow the same part to be used in multiple models.
If you have the equipment and skills though, I can also see how your workaround for a couple of quids worth of parts could be preferable to a £35 ish software download.

I wonder if that particular software update is included in the package of free updates when using a main dealer for servicing.....
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Old Aug 14th, 2019, 15:09   #16
dcw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSarre View Post
Hi DCW,

I will PM you in a minute.

What were the symptoms that you experienced?

When you bought the new CPS did you just plug it in and everything went back to the way it should be?

Steve
Hi Steve

The only reason I replaced the CPS on my 2004 C70 was because when I installed the cruise control it wasn't working, and that is one of the sensors it needs to have operating for obvious reasons (!).

When I checked for error codes there were none related to the CC per se (but that is just a switch and a software installation with the ME7 set-up) but one for the CPS.

TBH, the replacement was a nearly new one taken from a scrap 2002 V70, and once installed the CC worked fine.

There were no other symptoms nor any other changes since replacing it, so for all I know it might never have been working for the 2 years I have now had the car!

The old one will be in the post...

Cheers

David
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Old Aug 14th, 2019, 16:44   #17
SteveSarre
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Hi David

Did your C70 have a turbo or was it normally aspirated?

In my case (low pressure turbo), as I understand it, the faulty clutch pedal sensor triggered the ETS light and codes and limited the duty cycle of the turbo control valve, limiting turbo boost and therefore power.


Steve
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Old Aug 15th, 2019, 12:26   #18
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Interesting...

It's a 2.0T, which has a LP Turbo on it. As far as I am aware the ETM light and everything works correctly and it has never suggested any sort of problem in two years of ownership. In fact, this is the third 2.0T C70 convertible I have owned over the years, and this one is by far the best to drive with a surprising amount of welly to it when pushed. Certainly no suggestions of any sort of lack of power and equally it was the same before the CPS change as after.

As I say, in my particular case it seems as if the CPS was in any event doing nothing at all since the car doesn't seem to have been missing it,! The fact it wasn't working only became relevant once I wanted to get cruise control working.

I should perhaps add that with the replacement sensor cruise works happily, and depressing the clutch disengages it as it should.

David
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Old Aug 15th, 2019, 17:36   #19
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Hi David,

I don't know anything about C70 2.0s.

I think that the turbo boost control valve is different for yours (possibly 30670448) than for my 1999 V70 AWD (9155936).
There are definitely a number of presumably slightly different TCVs out there.

Also the ECM or ETM software that you have loaded may be different than mine.

So I can't conclude anything interesting.

But obviously if yours runs well, you're happy.

Steve
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C70 T 20V Auto Conv. 2001 Blue, C70 T5 Auto Conv. 2000 Blue
V70 2.5 Turbo AWD Auto 1998 Green, V70 2.5 10V Auto BiFuel 1999 Red (scrapped) V70 20v Auto 1999 Green (scrapped)
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Old Aug 4th, 2020, 21:27   #20
Motas88
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Chose to post here rather than start a new thread as I have the same problem.

Managed to leave my parking lights on and ended up with a flat battery. Car was running fine before hand but after jump starting it the main symptom was no power and pronounced hesitation on acceleration, the more I pushed on the accelerator the more it seemed to bog down. (My Cruise control hasn’t worked since I got the car and didn’t investigate it as I don’t have a use for it). Got the AA out as I didn’t have my code reader or tools. Turns out it was the CPS throwing a code.

Replaced it with a new one today but haven’t cleared the code as my mate has my reader and it the power was significantly worse after, has gradually got better after driving for a few miles but still bogs down. Question is does the code need cleared or should it have cleared itself?

C70 2000 2.0 LPT. With ETM.
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