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What fuel ? do you use ?

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Old Jan 18th, 2014, 18:16   #21
LMJ
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The B20F has a HG on 1,2mm and B20E HG is 0,8mm, so yes I will get a better compression by just mounting the 0,8mm gasket.

According to Volvo´s data, the B20F head is 87mm high, compared to the B20E head that is 84,9mm high. A difference on 2,1mm. The 2 mm milling is just fine.
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Old Jan 18th, 2014, 18:58   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdz840 View Post
Ranjit
I'm still building it, albeit in the final stages.
So unfortunately can't tell you yet.
Hopefully will be in the car around April, subject to work
Russ
please keep us posted
pictures as well if possible

ranjit
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Old Jan 19th, 2014, 09:27   #23
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There has been made some interesting tests at Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs concerning modern petrol used to day. The test can be reed in attached link, where FBHVC also come with recommendations, what to do if you have a classic car.

http://www.fbhvc.co.uk/legislation-a...l-information/
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Old Jan 19th, 2014, 09:47   #24
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Taking a step back here.

If your engine is running fine now and you are going to be taking the head off for fitting bigger valves and porting you should do nothing to the head. You might as well just stick unleaded fuel in, use super if you want the benefit of the higher octane. You will be able to run for years and years like this with no problems.


Now if you are planning on fitting bigger valves then you do need to consider what you do with the exhaust valve seats. With cutting the seats back for bigger valves you will be removing the work hardened area of the seat and cutting into fresh material. In that case you have two options. 1) use an additive to ensure the seats are protected, after about 50,000 miles like that you could probably safely stop using the additive. 2) is to have hardened exhaust valve seats fitted and no need to worry about it again. You would also want to fit bronze alloy valve guides while you are there.

There is no point having this kind of head work done just for the sake of it. If you have a engine that does suffer VSR then you are doing no harm running unleaded and letting the VSR take place. You will be able to adjust the valves a few times before a fair way down the line needing to take the head off and have harder seats fitted. The work can still be all planned, you will not be stuck with an engine that will not run.
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Old Jan 19th, 2014, 19:21   #25
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hello, thanks. I got the info of Lead petrol distributors from the link

http://www.fbhvc.co.uk/legislation-a...l-information/

sent by LMJ..and also noted the points ofclassicswede...........................
very informative..and full of knowledge.From the link l noted the distributors of leaded petrol and found 2 in Leicestershire.Now l wonder if l had it filled up Unleaded with added substitute like Castro valve master plus or Millers then would it be wise to mix leaded petrol with the unleaded. Or must l fully consume the unleaded first before filling up with the leaded. Would do any harm in mixing unleaded with leaded. Please advice. Yet l have no idea how much does leaded cost but l'll find it out tomorrow and keep you posted.

regards........ranjit
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Old Jan 19th, 2014, 21:36   #26
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Goodman Ranjit, I thought I over thought things. You and the engine will be fine. When did they stop selling leaded fuel in the UK? How long has your car been running fine on whatever fuel was available? It's your money but I doubt you will notice any difference between 95 supermarket fuel and 97 premium and 95 will be perfectly fine to make it go and stop like it should.
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Old Jan 20th, 2014, 11:37   #27
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Having read the FBHVC article I was surprised not to find, may have missed it, that when these additives were first tested and approved it was advised that you should stick to the same one in that engine. This was due to the different metals they were based on. Those being Sodium, Phosphorus and Manganese. Sounded logical to me at the time and still does but time may have blurred the thinking on this if no one has actually had proven bad results if they've mixed them.

Just to state my position, I've never used any additives. I don't do high mileages and don't drive my cars very hard, but don't hang about. I don't consider cruising an Amazon at 80 in OD hard driving. However, if I reground exhaust seats and replaced the head I would use an additive, as all of the "lead memory" would have gone.
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Old Jan 20th, 2014, 12:53   #28
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I did not realise anyone was still selling leaded fuel in the UK. Useful to have the list. Thanks.
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Old Jan 20th, 2014, 17:45   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Khe Sanh View Post
Goodman Ranjit, I thought I over thought things. You and the engine will be fine. When did they stop selling leaded fuel in the UK? How long has your car been running fine on whatever fuel was available? It's your money but I doubt you will notice any difference between 95 supermarket fuel and 97 premium and 95 will be perfectly fine to make it go and stop like it should.
Hello. yes there is truth in what said and l've realised that lately I have been fussing a lot about fuel and other things and thanks to you all for your advices...experience ...suggestions... and all that brought me to my senses that I must stop the fuss and just enjoy the drive with whatever fuel and substitute is available. This has been very educational and full of information and Thanks for your support.

regards........ranjit


By the way.... Lucky for me that my amazon 122s ''''''SYD495G'''''' passed its '''''''MOT''''''' .

Project ''SYD495G'' is closer to completion, as soon as its finished I'II keep you posted with progress and photos.
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Old Jan 20th, 2014, 19:25   #30
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Best not to overthink it. These are robust cars. Drive and enjoy. Over here we have unleaded, thats it, one type. Super unleaded was phased out years ago. Not a problem.
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