Number plate lamp replacement?

[James_EG_940]

Hi folks,

I'm staring down an MOT in a couple of weeks and the offside numberplate lamp is dead. That particular one seems to be sensitive and blows more frequently than its nearside friend however when I tried to replace it this time one screw sheared off and the other's head is completely stripped.

Any tips for replacing any of these assemblies? Am I likely to need to remove the whole tailgate latch assembly to get at this sheared screw or can just the light fitting be extracted from inside?

Any tips appreciated!
James

[classicswede]

Saloon or estate?

Early or late style?

[James_EG_940]

Hi Dai,

It's the early style tailgate latch, estate.

Cheers,
James

[Forrest]

A technique that has worked well for me with seized number plate screws is to drill the head off the screw, remove the number plate and then grab the stub with good quality pliers to unscrew it. I usually use a left-handed drill from a screw removal set in the hope that any movement will help to undo the screw.

There is a risk this will damage the by now fragile lamp cover, so probably worth sourcing a couple of spares. Volvo p/n 1321984 and still available the last time I needed one.

I usually replace these sort of screws with stainless steel equivalents to avoid future problems. You will need to measure the original carefully to match length, gauge, type and head size.

[James_EG_940]

Thanks Forrest,

I was half hoping there would be some neat trick where I could remove the holder from the inside and could then attempt to get the remnants of the screws out from the comfort of a workbench - perhaps not!

I see that Skandix have the lens/covers in stock and I need to place an order with them anyway for a couple of replacement seatbelt release buttons. Failing that will give FRF a call.

Weirdly the nearside screws are still nice and shiny and a dream to put in and take out, just the offside ones that have rusted away. That offside lamp always blows and the nearside one lasts for ages, so I suspect water ingress or something on that side!

[Forrest]

I don’t think so. Removing the tailgate trim is not particularly easy and is likely to snap some plastic clips. I don’t think the access you’d achieve would make your suggestion viable. I think it might be the wire for one of these lights you can see through the small, partially obscured hole on the very left edge of this picture. Not really enough room to work seized screws out from behind.

[James_EG_940]

Well, I drilled the remaining screw head off and didn't destroy the lens - bonus!

Now to try and get the remaining rusty shafts out... From the parts diagram it looks like they are just self tappers into plastic? It does look like the assembly is only held on with a couple of bolts though, so apart from getting the trim off (I actually have one of the tailgate trim repair kits from PFV sitting around somewhere) it might be easy enough to get to the back side of the screws.

At least with both lamps now working it should get through next week's MOT!

[tofufi]

Originally Posted by James_EG_940

Well, I drilled the remaining screw head off and didn't destroy the lens - bonus!

Now to try and get the remaining rusty shafts out... From the parts diagram it looks like they are just self tappers into plastic? It does look like the assembly is only held on with a couple of bolts though, so apart from getting the trim off (I actually have one of the tailgate trim repair kits from PFV sitting around somewhere) it might be easy enough to get to the back side of the screws.

At least with both lamps now working it should get through next week's MOT!

Good work

I hate to break it to you, but technically, it should pass with only one of two lamps working...

Defect:

(b) A rear registration plate lamp or light source missing or inoperative:
(i) when rear registration plate has 2 or more lamps or light sources - Minor
(ii) when rear registration plate has only one lamp or all lamps not working - Major

[Forrest]

Well done!

The side I'm guessing you drilled looks like it's got a nice stub to grab hold of. I think, from memory, they are self-tappers.

My favourite tool for getting screw stubs like that out is one of these, but any decent quality pliers should work provided you can get a firm grip and persuade it to turn rather than slip in the jaws.

https://www.knipex.com/products/pipe...a-slim/8751250

The other side looks more problematic and might need the stub drilling out. If you end up with the hole too loose for the correct size of self-tapper you might be able to put some glue or sealant in the hole to restore it or see if there is any potential to use a small rivnut and machine screw. The latter method can work well where holes in metal have deformed beyond using a self-tapping screw but might be ambitious in plastic.