Body/Trim: Cellulose onto Etch Primer

[stevepcar]

Managed to get hold of a reasonable front wing for my 850. But it needed stripping back to bare metal as wrong colour & some rust areas. I am using aerosol cans as not worth using the spray gun for this size of area. So far I have etch primed it and I want to know if I can spray cellulose top coat directly on to it, without using any other primer beforehand. If I do have to spray a barrier primer of some sort first, can I use Acryllic before cellulose top coat. I keep finding contradictory advice on the net(as usual). Anybody have any experience in this that can give me some advice please or point me t a site that is trustworthy.

[Cookeh]

I'd personally add a high build primer first. You can spray straight over etch primer, but a normal primer will give you some spare room for surface prep. It will also help to give a uniform colour beneath the base coat, ensuring the best and most consistent colour match.

Can't help with the more specific sides of the question though, I do apologise. Do you have a friendly paint shop nearby that you could ask the question to?

[Luxobarge]

Yes, you can spray cellulose onto etch primer, but etch primer is very thin, and so the finish will show up every blemish, scratch and uneven parts, so it's normal to use filler-primer after etch primer, flat back with fine wet-and-dry and then apply the base coat and laquer (or just top coat if it's not metallic). Personally I find that cellulose (especially from rattle cans) is quite weak and fragile, and will look poor quite quickly, so I'd prefer to use 2k which is much tougher and more like the original finish. It's your call though of course.

It all depends on how good you want it to be, but as the wing is off the car (presumably) can you not find a small body shop that would blow it over in 2k for you for not much ££? Although i can spray myself, that's what I did when some **** bashed into my wing, I got a decent 2nd-hand one and cleaned it up and as it was in the wrong colour I just took it to my local guy who sprayed it with primer, base coat and lacquer for £50 - perfect match and looks like new - and still does several years later.

Edit - Cookeh just posted while I was typing the above, he's obviously on the same page as me, spot on.

[stevepcar]

Thanks to both of you. I had toyed with the idea of 2K, but a bit doubtful about safety issues, I do not have a suitable mask for that. I was hoping to do it myself, hence the cellulose. I had thought about a local paint shop as an alternative, so I could also explore that option as well if it is not too expensive.

[volvo again]

Have a look here...https://www.jawel.co.uk/

Plenty of info about the different paint types. you can also get 2k in aerosol cans

Celly will need quite a bit of wet sanding & compounding/polishingto get a good finish.

As Cookeh says, use a primer filler after the etch primer, then ideally apply a guide coat to highlight any high or low spots, before top coats.

[Bob Meadows]

It is advised to stick with one type of paint:~ if all the base coats are cellulose based then compatibility is fine.
Cellulose is easier to work with particularly if you get runs/orange peel etc.
Although it has become more difficult to obtain it is still available if you shop around.
Two pack isn't for the average DIY man unless you have a very cheap body- one to avoid.
No experience of the water based paints that are used on new cars- Cellulose is fine if you don't chance the mix of base coats and far easier in many respects.
Good luck.
Bob.