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Very high idle '92 B230FK

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Old Sep 16th, 2019, 18:43   #11
360beast
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Get someone to crank the car while you hold a multimeter on the battery and see what the voltage is reading, could be the battery has enough power to crank but not enough to fire the ignition too.
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Old Sep 18th, 2019, 11:53   #12
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Get someone to crank the car while you hold a multimeter on the battery and see what the voltage is reading, could be the battery has enough power to crank but not enough to fire the ignition too.
First thing i checked. Charged the battery and the same happened. I tried another battery and the same happened.
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Old Sep 18th, 2019, 12:24   #13
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When you serviced it, what did you set the plug gap to? Should be 0.65-0.7mm.

Next, what are you like using a multimeter? If you're ok, locate the CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) located more or less under #3 inlet tract on the head. The one inf front sort of between #1 and #2 is the temperature gauge sender - don't confuse the two!
The CTS has two terminals, each goes through a thermistor inside the sensor to the body of it which also happens to be earth so make sure no bright spark has wrapped PTFE tape round it!
Check from each teminal to earth is about 2.5k Ohms +/- about 10% (2200 - 2800 ish) when cold and that the resistance between the two pins is about the sum of the two separate resistances. If it's within those ranges then the CTS should be ok. Further information can be found on Pg20 (by document viewer page number) of this pdf :

http://www.myvolvolibrary.info/Tech_...DataPocket.pdf

Also worth checking the carbon brush inside the dizzy cap, these can easily break if the fitting of the cap was a bit ham-fisted.

Also while cranking, do you notice if the rev counter flickers very slightly or not? If it doesn't, there's a good chance the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) is faulty. THese aren't expensive and are fairly easy to change if you lift the bonnet vertical and have a reasonable reach on you. Being at the back of the engine bay, the wiring is subject to a lot of heat which does the insulation no favours and eventually cause the wiring to break and/or short together, rendering the output nil.
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Old Sep 18th, 2019, 13:50   #14
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Hi Dave

The spark plug gap on B230fk is 0.7 -0.8. Not trying to be pedantic but I just changed mine recently and got info from blue book on forum



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Old Sep 18th, 2019, 13:56   #15
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Hi Dave

The spark plug gap on B230fk is 0.7 -0.8. Not trying to be pedantic but I just changed mine recently and got info from blue book on forum



Cheers, Mark
No worries Mark, 0.65-0.7mm will grow into 0.7-0.8mm in 5-10k miles anyway! If starting problems are experienced though a slightly tighter gap is better as it allows a weak spark to still fire the mixture. Besides, i won't argue of 50u on a plug gap!
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Old Sep 19th, 2019, 10:48   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
When you serviced it, what did you set the plug gap to? Should be 0.65-0.7mm.

Next, what are you like using a multimeter? If you're ok, locate the CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) located more or less under #3 inlet tract on the head. The one inf front sort of between #1 and #2 is the temperature gauge sender - don't confuse the two!
The CTS has two terminals, each goes through a thermistor inside the sensor to the body of it which also happens to be earth so make sure no bright spark has wrapped PTFE tape round it!
Check from each teminal to earth is about 2.5k Ohms +/- about 10% (2200 - 2800 ish) when cold and that the resistance between the two pins is about the sum of the two separate resistances. If it's within those ranges then the CTS should be ok. Further information can be found on Pg20 (by document viewer page number) of this pdf :

http://www.myvolvolibrary.info/Tech_...DataPocket.pdf

Also worth checking the carbon brush inside the dizzy cap, these can easily break if the fitting of the cap was a bit ham-fisted.

Also while cranking, do you notice if the rev counter flickers very slightly or not? If it doesn't, there's a good chance the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) is faulty. THese aren't expensive and are fairly easy to change if you lift the bonnet vertical and have a reasonable reach on you. Being at the back of the engine bay, the wiring is subject to a lot of heat which does the insulation no favours and eventually cause the wiring to break and/or short together, rendering the output nil.
I gapped all of the spark plugs with what ever i was told to do in the Haynes manual. I can't remember off the top of my head.

I will check the CPS at some point soon.

Will keep you lot posted.
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Old Sep 19th, 2019, 10:57   #17
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I gapped all of the spark plugs with what ever i was told to do in the Haynes manual. I can't remember off the top of my head.

I will check the CPS at some point soon.

Will keep you lot posted.
I hope you used Metric feeler gauges? I know of at least one person on here that used Imperial and set the gap to 0.070" which is more than twice what they should be!

Rough rule of thumb (literally) is most peoples thumb nails are about 0.7mm thick so can be used as a rough setting if you're stranded miles from anywhere without feeler gauges. It's also a handy double-check that you're in the right ball-park with the feeler gauges.
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Old May 23rd, 2020, 17:34   #18
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I reckon i fixed the rough starting. The IACV only solved it for a day. I think shooting a tonne of carb cleaner into the intake is what made me think it was fixed. So with this info I thought it was a fueling issue. I changed out the fuel pressure regulator. After g-clamping the sucker into the fuel rail the engine cranked a couple times and now starts first turn of the key. Idle is a bit high but i can live with that for the time being. I want to get it MOT'd soonish as the car hasn't touched a road for years now. The blanked off lambda sensor blew itself off and i have bodged a fix with some gun gum, a washer and a spare bolt. All held down with a jubilee clip. Checked the lights and the reverse light isnt working. Is it an MOT requirement? The other thing that doesnt work is one of the front light wipers. If it cut them both off, will it pass mot?

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Old May 23rd, 2020, 18:00   #19
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I reckon i fixed the rough starting. The IACV only solved it for a day. I think shooting a tonne of carb cleaner into the intake is what made me think it was fixed. So with this info I thought it was a fueling issue. I changed out the fuel pressure regulator. After g-clamping the sucker into the fuel rail the engine cranked a couple times and now starts first turn of the key. Idle is a bit high but i can live with that for the time being. I want to get it MOT'd soonish as the car hasn't touched a road for years now. The blanked off lambda sensor blew itself off and i have bodged a fix with some gun gum, a washer and a spare bolt. All held down with a jubilee clip. Checked the lights and the reverse light isnt working. Is it an MOT requirement? The other thing that doesnt work is one of the front light wipers. If it cut them both off, will it pass mot?

-Rezz
A bit of silicon grease on the "O" ring on the FPR would have helped a lot. Did you pull fuse #1 after fitting it? That may sort your high idle.

You need the Lambda sensor working for the emissions although i think (not sure) yours has a dispensation to pass the BET rather thanthe cat test - your MoT guy should be able to find this so if it fails on the cat test, remind him some early 940s are exempt from the cat test despite having a cat.

Reverse light needs fixing for the MoT, probably just a dirty connection on the bulb - remove the bulb and rub the metal body of it on your jeans then turn it in your hands so you can also rub the single solder contact on the bottom on your jeans - replace and test or just fit a new 21W bulb.
Headlight wash/wipe isn't part of the MoT so leave it until you can fix it properly, don't try and bodge things!
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Old May 23rd, 2020, 19:47   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
A bit of silicon grease on the "O" ring on the FPR would have helped a lot. Did you pull fuse #1 after fitting it? That may sort your high idle.

You need the Lambda sensor working for the emissions although i think (not sure) yours has a dispensation to pass the BET rather thanthe cat test - your MoT guy should be able to find this so if it fails on the cat test, remind him some early 940s are exempt from the cat test despite having a cat.

Reverse light needs fixing for the MoT, probably just a dirty connection on the bulb - remove the bulb and rub the metal body of it on your jeans then turn it in your hands so you can also rub the single solder contact on the bottom on your jeans - replace and test or just fit a new 21W bulb.
Headlight wash/wipe isn't part of the MoT so leave it until you can fix it properly, don't try and bodge things!

Bulbs and fuse is fine. I tested both. I think its the switch ontop of the gearbox. From what the Haynes says i have to remove the gearbox X member.

Mine isnt a lambda car as far as i know. There is no wire/sensor in the vicinity of the fixed hole.

If i made a manual reverse light switch, would that pass the test? Trying to find any excuse to avoid dropping the gearbox
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