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B230FD Problems :)

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Old Feb 19th, 2020, 20:48   #141
Laird Scooby
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Should it make sense? I simply changed alternator to test out why my dashboard lights are on. So I changed to a 100ampere one. Tried it. Test drove it. It wouldn’t rev higher than 3000rpm

Changed to my old alternator 65ampere again. It solved my issue with the acceleration problem. But the lights came back. It didn’t come back on 100a alternator

Is this any clue? Or does it even make sense?
The 65A alternator is dead, dig a hole and bury it! Pull fuse #1 for a few minutes and refit, while you're waiting get down on your knees and pray to whatever deity/god/religion/belief you hold true for a miracle.

Like Ash said, nothing in that makes sense.
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Old Feb 19th, 2020, 21:20   #142
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Here's a try at making sense.

The engine continues to have a serious performance problem.

The 65A alternator is dead and so places no mechanical load on the engine.

the 100A is very good and, at full output, requires around 3 hp to drive it.

The engine doesn't have 3 hp to give.
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Old Feb 19th, 2020, 22:15   #143
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Unplug the earth connection from the TPS and try it again. Let me know what happens.

Also have you got a NOID light yet?
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Old Feb 20th, 2020, 05:19   #144
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I'd make a guess the ECU is toast. Did you remove fuse #1 after replacing the alternator and did you make sure the battery was fully charged?
How can the ecu be bad? It’s either working or not. Not In between?

Last edited by Volvo940GL; Feb 20th, 2020 at 05:25.
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Old Feb 20th, 2020, 05:19   #145
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Here's a try at making sense.

The engine continues to have a serious performance problem.

The 65A alternator is dead and so places no mechanical load on the engine.

the 100A is very good and, at full output, requires around 3 hp to drive it.

The engine doesn't have 3 hp to give.
Then what can I Do?
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Old Feb 20th, 2020, 05:21   #146
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The 65A alternator is dead, dig a hole and bury it! Pull fuse #1 for a few minutes and refit, while you're waiting get down on your knees and pray to whatever deity/god/religion/belief you hold true for a miracle.

Like Ash said, nothing in that makes sense.
NO

It doesent make sense. At idle it made it worse with new alternator. It would backfire and hesitate to rev.

Last edited by Volvo940GL; Feb 20th, 2020 at 05:39.
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Old Feb 20th, 2020, 05:22   #147
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Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
Unplug the earth connection from the TPS and try it again. Let me know what happens.

Also have you got a NOID light yet?
Does that require to crack open the plug?
Or the regular ground cable that’s separated
No, I don’t have noid light anymore

Last edited by Volvo940GL; Feb 20th, 2020 at 05:55.
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Old Feb 20th, 2020, 05:36   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
Unplug the earth connection from the TPS and try it again. Let me know what happens.

Also have you got a NOID light yet?
I had an ecu I had and could try, but I was told the ecu wasn’t the case, since it’s either dead or don’t work at all, meaning nothing happens when trying to crank??

I have no idea. I have checked everything.
But using a multimeter on every sensor, haven’t done that yet
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Old Feb 20th, 2020, 05:37   #149
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I'd make a guess the ECU is toast. Did you remove fuse #1 after replacing the alternator and did you make sure the battery was fully charged?
Battery is fully charged. And I didn’t pull out fuse 1
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Old Feb 20th, 2020, 05:52   #150
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Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
The 65A alternator is dead, dig a hole and bury it! Pull fuse #1 for a few minutes and refit, while you're waiting get down on your knees and pray to whatever deity/god/religion/belief you hold true for a miracle.

Like Ash said, nothing in that makes sense.

I noticed when I changed alternator and battery, it cranked way faster and started faster. But ash says it’s a mechanical problem so my engine can’t give out 3hp to the alternator. Do assuming my original alternator is bad, it requires no effort to spin the alternator. Could I try another 65ampere one? Is there any limp mode in these old Volvo’s? This idling problem is killing me. I won’t throw my 65ampere away. I just don’t know what to try out now, so Im relying on you two guys now. What do I need to check when the 100 ampere alternator cannot give enough juice? Is it really the ecu that’s causing this?
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