C70 Will Not Start After Running?

[Lee2246]

Hi all,

Unfortunately my dad passed away this year and I've moved the car from his house to mine.

Car has been stud for 2 years, put a jump pack to the battery and it started. All sounded fine drove it about 100 yards and onto the back of a trailer. Let it run for a bit to get some charge into the battery. Happy days.

Got back home and it wouldn't start just turning over. Any ideas?

Car is 2003 (only 51k on it too), not 100% sure on engine size but its not a T5. It is petrol though.

Only thing was what looked like a radiator warning light was on? Stayed on when first started car.

Thanks,
Lee

[DunkinBiskits]

low coolant light. may be due to a failed float in the header tank, but more likely on through low/no coolant.

how long did you leave it running whilst this light was illuminated? hopefully not very long at all.

usual suspect on a no start is the basics, fuel, spark and compression. id be checking compression first, especially if youve ran it with no coolant.

fuel pressure is easy to check, jut give the schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail a quick press with screwdriver with key at pos 2, and it should squirt a fair bit, not dribble out.

spark is also easy to check, just undo one coil pack and stick any old plug that fits inside it, then crank it to see if it sparks. this will also test functionality of crank and cam sensors.

see how that goes first, and if youre still in a pickle you may need VIDA connecting and seeing any codes.

Sorry to hear about your Dad.

[Lee2246]

Thanks for that, will check and see.

Car was ran for about 30 mins but did check water level when I saw light on and level was fine.

Thanks.

[tony209]

As Dunc says, I'd check it's got fuel pressure, don't rely on the fuel gauge showing you have fuel. My V70 will run until the tank is empty but switch the engine off with low fuel and it won't start unless I put more fuel in. Also.

I have VIDA and I will be in Bolton next weekend if you need help.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Lee2246

Hi all,

Unfortunately my dad passed away this year and I've moved the car from his house to mine.

Car has been stud for 2 years, put a jump pack to the battery and it started. All sounded fine drove it about 100 yards and onto the back of a trailer. Let it run for a bit to get some charge into the battery. Happy days.

Got back home and it wouldn't start just turning over. Any ideas?

Car is 2003 (only 51k on it too), not 100% sure on engine size but its not a T5. It is petrol though.

Only thing was what looked like a radiator warning light was on? Stayed on when first started car.

Thanks,
Lee

The fuel may have "gone off " in 2 years , i would drain the tank change the fuel filter and put in at least 3 gallons and try again .

[Lee2246]

Thanks for the advice guys, however the plot thickness ha.

Came to the car this morning and it fired up straight away. No hesitation or anything???

Maybe just needs a good run?

[DunkinBiskits]

dodgy crank or cam sensor then mate id say. therell be a code stored in the ECU if so. Although theres nothing worse than an intermittant electrical fault

[Luxobarge]

When it failed to start, did it fire at all? If it fires a few times then stops, that's a classic symptom of the antenna ring contacts, a really thorough clean usually sorts it. Also, this is the sort of fault that could develop while the car is standing for a few years - Just a thought!

[Paul240480]

Very likely to be the antenna ring, recently had to change mine due to a random no start issue. It would spin but not fire or fire and die, but only on say every 4th or 5th start up.

I had a 2nd issue too sometimes the dash lights & DRLs would work but nowt went trying to start. No turn over what so ever..... A quick wiggle of the trigger wire on the starter and it would fire up.

Replaced the antenna ring in July-ish. Since its only missed 2 times, with the 'no spin' issue. Once again a wiggle of the wire sorted it. I really must set to an clean the trigger wire and terminal properly! Its a pain to get to tho'

Hope yours is soon sorted.
Antennas as mentioned can be cleaned up. Didn't work in my case, so I got a Volvo replacement from PFV

[Lee2246]

Hi Guys,

Sorry it's been a long time since i replied to this one, but thought I'd let you all know how I got on with the car (also good for anyone searching this problem in the future), and also some other oddities that people may find interesting / useful.

Anyway, a little while after I posted the car wouldn't start at all, just cranked over and as mentioned below had all the hall marks of the antenna ring. I decided to send the car to a friends garage. I also wanted to do the timing belt and for him to have a good look over it to make sure everything else is ok. So I had the car trailered to his garage. As i wasn't really in any particular rush i said the worst thing you can to a mechanic 'there's no rush' and to be fair, with him being a friend he also agreed to store it there short term. Over a year an a half later (oops), we finally got round to sorting the starting issue.

It turned out the immobilizer had heavily corroded inside and effectively was scrap (is this common, although the car had stud for the best part of 3.5 years at this point?). So a new (2nd hand) immobilizer kit was fitted an hey presto it started. Belts done, new tyres, front suspension arms and a service and all looked good, car passed it MOT

However a could of days later the intermittent starting was back, would literately fire up then die and it was running very rough from cold (when warmed up it drove spot on). Changed fuel filter and drained all the old fuel (was half a tank in it), but still ran rough.

Still no luck for the Volvo, to cut a long story short, I left the car at a friend house, who at the time was having a bit of work done on his house. I get a call - I think I've accidentally thrown the keys away with all the rubbish... Great.

As I was again in no rush for the car and then the COVID-19 kicked off the car then stud for another 8 months. Eventually with lock down easing, A guy came and re-programmed two keys (only had one from when the immobilizer was swapped) and the car sprung to life again, although the rough running from cold was still there.

I found if you unplugged the MAF the car ran smoothly, so new MAF ordered and car now runs spot on with no issues , however one of the keys that was working won't start the car anymore, luckily the other one still does. However the key that isn't working will start the car for a second (if that) and then cut out, like it did before my friend lost the keys?

So my next question is, are these a difficult car to get the programming right for on the immobilizer or just temperamental in general as i think the starting issue has been down to the key all along.

I'm waiting for the guy to come back for a replacement the faulty key and will see what he says and update. But I now have a problem with the roof (which had been working fine), it's one of them cars ha.

Sorry for the essay ha,
Lee