2015 XC60 DR sluggish to accelerate

[Rjhobday]

hi all,

as above i have a 2015 XC60 D4 (181bhp) automatic, usually when you accelerate you get the "kick" and it goes. now when you put your foot down it slowly creeps up to 3/3.5rpm then the kick comes in. i've taken it to a volvo dealer, first time they replaced the EGR hose and updated the ELM as part of a health campaign. but reckoned it felt fine. took it home. same thing. i took it back to them, and they now can't find it. and want to charge £300 quid just to investigate it further.

now when this first happened the engine fault light didn't come on, but after some driving it does. same thing when i picked it up from volvo both times. they've cleared the fault light. but it comes back on eventually. i plugged into the OBD without the fault light on the dash i get P2262 - turbocharger boost pressure not detected, and P0299 - turbocharger low boost. eventually P02CB (turbocharger B- underboost condition) comes on which brings on the engine fault light on too.

also while plugged into the OBD i can see live data from sensors, the ones i think is relevant is EGR duty and EGR error. duty when driving normally sits around 20% with fluctuations, and error at 0%, when you boot it, duty goes to zero and error goes to 99%. so to me that points at a sensor. i have checked the EGR valve isnt sticking. i'm an electrical engineer, so i'm relatively decent with my hands. so pointed in the right direction i can probably sort it wiothout having to go back to the dealer who is shocking, another story. but im rubbish with cars, so if it is the EGR sensors (i've heard its common) where are they and how to change them? or is what i've listed above pointing to something else?

the dealer i went to reckons the turbo is faulty. but once its kicked in, its fine. other volvo dealers have said it could be EMAP pipe pressure sensor, manifold pressure sensor both either faulty or covered in muck. or blocked EGR cooler pipe.

and lastly if you've made it this far, thank you for reading and thanks in advance for any help you can provide!! please treat me like a 5 year old with explanations, because again, im not a "car" guy haha

[Zebster]

I believe the AWD models of this year use the older 5-cylinder engine, while the FWD models use the newer 4-cylinder VEA engine, so not sure which engine you have?

My VEA D4 has suffered EGR valve problems (failing to close) which caused similar 'loss of power' symptoms. There is no EGR sensor, the EGR flow is inferred from comparing MAF flow to the ECU map estimate of intake air draw. Blockage of the EMAP sensor pipework is not uncommon, however that usually causes a minor hesitation... the recent safety recall for the 'manifold deformation/fire risk' also involved cleaning of the EMAP and TMAP sensors/pipework, so that shouldn't be an issue.

[Tannaton]

As he ^^^^ said we need to know if the car is AWD (5 cylinder engine) or a 2 wheel drive variant (4 cylinder VEA. engine).

[Whyman]

Always helpful if you put your car details in you signature so that you don’t need to answer Tannaton’s question before he can give you advice.

[Rjhobday]

My bad, I was under the impression they stopped the 5 cylinders in D4's from 2014 onwards hence why I didn't mention it. But it is a FWD 4 cylinder

[Zebster]

Originally Posted by Rjhobday

My bad, I was under the impression they stopped the 5 cylinders in D4's from 2014 onwards hence why I didn't mention it. But it is a FWD 4 cylinder

So did it actually go for the safety recall and what was done? As said, to me it sounds like the EGR valve failing to close; how are you sure it isn't sticking?

[Rjhobday]

Comment duplicated and can't figure out how to delete with the phone interface

[Rjhobday]

They updated the ELM software. Which is to do with a manifold fault. And they changed the EGR hose. Terminology the dealer used. As for the EGR. again im rubbish with cars. But I watched some YouTube, and removed the engine cover, just to the right of the engine. There's a little block with some hoses. And there's a black clip on cover on the bottom side with I slid off and there's an actuator. From what I can gather that moves the EGR valve. That moves freely in and out with little resistance.

[Rjhobday]

Also little update. At the advice from a colleague. Who is very good mechanically. I drove for a few miles in 3rd, in semi auto. Revving the car to 3.5/4k. And my performance feels more normal, definitely more responsive with the turbos kicking in. So would this indicate a dirty sensor/blockage that I've cleared a bit with the pressure build up from driving with those revs?