U.S. Build P1800. LS1 (V8) 5-Speed, Flush Mount Glass Kit

[john h]

Originally Posted by tdz840

just crack on!
I think you along with a couple of others on here have some really unique ideas for the 1800. Im really interested how they pan out and so far all looks good.
Ignore the luddites; ive seen them at the shows with the flat cap, beard, pipe and lots of opinions
ref the bumpers how about some ultra thin one. S that have the basic shape but only half as deep. Just quarters may look good as well on the front.
Russ

+1....!

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Originally Posted by T240

I'm sorry, but it needs to be said:

What you're doing to the P1800 is nothing short of butchery! You should be ashamed of yourself.

Why don't you go hack up some crappy American tin and leave the quality European classics to people who appreciate them for what they are!

'Nuff said!!!

T

First of all... I am very surprised it took this long before a comment came out like this. I will say thank you to everyone that has left nice comments or emails, and please ask for a bit of respect from others that may disagree.

I have built and updated many cars, including American Tin.. To be honest, I think that this is IN THE THEME of the P1800, it isnt like I am Widening the body, putting side pipes with flames coming out, and painting it some hideous Gold Metal Flake Color... ha ha I am not saying that my build is the greatest or anything, but if it is successful, it is builds like this that drives the Values up on the Normal P1800's... I am also working with a couple of different company's so like my Company, they may start offering nice updated products for these cars to bring them into the 21st century. My company is doing and updated Flush Mount Glass Kit, that requires no Body Mods. And by doing this, we are making a new rear glass widely available, since they seem to be discontinued. I am working with a suspension company to possible make a Bolt I front suspension/crossmember that will offer tubular control arms, rack and pinion steering, adjustable coil overs, larger brakes up to 13 inch drilled slotted rotors with 6 piston calipers (again, ALL BOLT IN WITH NO CUTTING OR MODS)

By bringing a surge in interest, most often, new products and value is added to particular car. It has happend with alot of other cars out there, especially in the American Market. I have always thought the P1800 is way under valued for what it is, and this is because alot of people dont really know what they are or their potential. You couldnt imagine how many people contact me about this car, and didnt know it existed, but fell in love with it immediately. As I have said, I have built other cars and did the same type of things to them. Here are a few of them over the last couple years, I have several others but they were built as this gentleman says they all should be... ha ha I will add the Triumph was put back original, because it should of due to the overall original condition of the car.

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Well I got the passenger side bumper roughly trimmed also, amazingly I got them EVEN, PROPORTIONED, and LEVEL, so it appears it may work out.. I will make some mounting brackets, and then order some new bumpers to re-cut... These bumpers have a bit of rust, and I am thinking it may be better to start all over fresh. I had ordered these from Ebay just to see if they would work.. Nothing like double labor.. ha ha I also put a black out where the exhaust will probably be coming through, the shape is not exactly what I am looking for, because I am going to be looking for an exhaust housing and tips that are hopefully already manufactured. If anyone knows a good source for them, I would appreciate the heads up.

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Originally Posted by tdz840

just crack on!
I think you along with a couple of others on here have some really unique ideas for the 1800. Im really interested how they pan out and so far all looks good.
Ignore the luddites; Ive seen them at the shows with the flat cap, beard, pipe and lots of opinions
Ref the bumpers how about some ultra thin one. s that have the basic shape but only half as deep. Just quarters may look good as well on the front.
Russ

We have those guys here also....LOL

I think that the finish cut to the rear bumpers fits overall, and it is hard to really see in the pictures.. As far as the front Bumper, I was going to use an ealier bull horn bumper and flip it upside down like in the rendition. It really goes with the them of the rear, and thought that was an awsome thought that is true to the car... Like everything else on here, I am going to try it to see what it looks like first before I cut anything.. I have changed several things on here, because in the process, it just wasnt going to look right when it is in front of you.

I am ordering some new Wheel Arch Openings, and I am going to place them on the body to see if I want to raise the wheel arches in the body.. In the rendition the wheel arches touch the body line on the side of the car.. I am not sure that this will look right in person when it comes to proportions, so before I cut the car up to find out, I am just going to put some new ones in place on the quarters and fenders and give it a look.

[john h]

Keep at it. I'm loving the ideas and execution.

If there were 5 1800s left in the world, I'd be saying "don't cut it".

But there are plenty of 1800s, ranging from mint to rough, so this high quality modified car can only add to the "brand".

I can't wait to see the finished product!



Now, if you'll forgive a brief wander off-topic...

If you have a taste for Euro sports cars, for your next trick, how about marketing a close replica of an Alpine A110, still super-lightweight and rear engined, but with modern chassis, suspension and brakes.

I have often thought the Alpine would be a great high-quality kit car, but the problem is making the glass... but that's not an issue for you of course!








Cheers

John

[Burdekin]

Hi Robert,

I plan on doing flush mounted glass as well but I always planned on having to modify the glass mounting surface as the specs I was given from memory you should have 20mm contact width with the glass and the the depth would need to be glass thickness plus 4-5mm for the adhesive (not sure if that is correct as have the details at work). This means the glass is bonded in rather that held in position by the sealing rubber. Is your method a neater way than original and held in place by the rubber seal? Not having a go at you or your product just trying to understand how your system works and if the results are what I'd like I would be interested in a kit.

Cheers,

Mitch

[Burdekin]

Hi John,

Some of the things this guy has done might interest you as well: http://www.ricola.co.uk/

I contacted him a while back and is a nice helpful guy.

Cheers,

Mitch

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Originally Posted by mitch1971

Hi Robert,

I plan on doing flush mounted glass as well but I always planned on having to modify the glass mounting surface as the specs I was given from memory you should have 20mm contact width with the glass and the the depth would need to be glass thickness plus 4-5mm for the adhesive (not sure if that is correct as have the details at work). This means the glass is bonded in rather that held in position by the sealing rubber. Is your method a neater way than original and held in place by the rubber seal? Not having a go at you or your product just trying to understand how your system works and if the results are what I'd like I would be interested in a kit.

Cheers,

Mitch

Hey Mitch... The problem with adding foriegn material to the window channel is, it always leads to cracking down the line. The corners of the window openings are major flex points during driving manuevers, so when you weld or seam in additional material and glaze, they dont flex exactly with the factory body, so cracking occurs.

The way our system works is this.. We actually redesign the glass to follow the bodies contours better, and make it over sized, so it fits in the outer most position of the window channel. By doing this, it makes the glass surface a continuation of the body, and there isnt any transition between the glass and body skin.. Also, by not adding foriegn steel to the window channels, there is no chance of cracking. Because our Urethane glued in kits allow the body to remain the same, it doesnt need a change in body flex properties to keep its quality. Our kits include the urethane and finish rubber (a t style 3/8's inch moulding) that lays flat on the edge of the glass and body, and bridges the flex tolerance gap for the windshield to body. The kit also comes with the Urethane necessary to glue in the glass, and all the basic installation prepping material.

With out kits, there are NO BODY MODS, which means this custom look is done in a matter of a few hours.. We have gone out of our way to make a product that doesnt forever alter your car.. So you can go from having our glass installed, to your original glass in a matter of hours.

Below are a few pitures of other cars with the products. If you will notice that the rear weatherstrip is totally optional.. Personally I like to just float the rear glass in the center of the hole with no weatherstrip. There are NO leaking issues, and looks cleaner because we put a nice rounded edge on the glass. For my car, I plan on making the Full Green House Roof and Back Glass, I am not sure if I am going to offer that, but I am making several of them.. I will be offering the normal Flush Mount Rear Glass and Windshield as a kit, although I am not sure if I will make a production run. Because it is very costly to go into full production, and I am not sure the numbers or interest is there, I will only be offering a few sets when I make mine.









This is one of our Sponsor cars, and it won the Winter Nationals in Florida last year by scoring a 995 out of a possible 1000 Points with our product installed in the car.

[Burdekin]

Thanks Robert,

I'b be keen for a kit if you make a few.

Cheers,

Mitch

[DJS]

Hey Robert,

Ref the negative comments, the car is going to look great and it's your car. Do as you like.

Some people can be amazingly rude when it comes to posting on forums. I wonder if they would be so rude face to face.

I'm looking forward to following your build.

Cheers,

Darren