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C30 / S40 & V50 '04-'12 / C70 '06-'13 General Forum for the P1-platform C30 / S40 / V50 / C70 models |
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Replacing Alternator on my V50, critique my plan!Views : 1348 Replies : 13Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Feb 11th, 2013, 21:16 | #1 |
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Replacing Alternator on my V50, critique my plan!
I have a plan and I'm just looking for some input from more knowledable people before I go ahead with it!
I have a v50 2.0d 2007 83000miles and I'm pretty sure my alternator is on the way out. Whining noise on revs for the past couple of days and then this afternoon "Power system service urgent" message accompanied by a slight hint of burning smell on lifting the bonnet. Still drives fine so I'm guessing the replacement battery I got last month still has a bit of charge left. After reading a few threads on here I'm pretty sure my alternator has gone. Through Eurocarparts I've found a Denso 150A new Alternator (Part No: 401591650) that I can pick up for £144 locally (well that's the price once I return my current alternator). I also have a Haynes manual and a collection of tools. I've been looking at some of the prices people seem to be paying to have a replacement alternator (£300-600) and that seems quie high! I'm planing on calling round a few garages tomorrow to get some quotes just in case but unless they're circa £50 for fitting I'm going to attempt it myself. Having read through the haynes description it doesn't seem to technical a job. However the most mechanical thing I've done to a car previously is replacing fuel/air filters! Is this a bad idea? Is there anything else I'd likely need to replace with the alternator? Could my diagnoses be wrong? Any input much appreciated! Last edited by MrRich; Feb 11th, 2013 at 21:30. |
Feb 11th, 2013, 21:35 | #2 |
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The alternator belt is tensioned with an auto tensioner - You need to get a spanner on the tensioner nut - 15mm if I recall -( some models have a hole to insert a drive tool (I use 1/4 inch leaver bar in one of the holes, but can slip out)- and press hard - down -( clockwise ) so that the spring tensioner releases... You can then get the new belt on... Be careful - if you let it slip - it will have your fingers ! It's not a hard job really.
Tensioner tool. http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=373&item=7122
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Last edited by S40Matt; Feb 11th, 2013 at 21:47. |
Feb 11th, 2013, 21:45 | #3 |
Brit in Germany
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What alternator do you CURRENTLY have fitted? If it ISN'T a 150A one, then it will need a software correction. Though I think 120A should be fitted already...
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Feb 11th, 2013, 21:48 | #4 |
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Thanks for the pointers! I'd not heard anything about the flywheel before so I'll investigate that further.
From Haynes it says to use a spanner to move the auto tensioner anticlockwise and then use a 5mm drill bit to hold it in place (there are a couple of holes that line up). |
Feb 11th, 2013, 21:53 | #5 |
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Thanks for the amperage warning! I'll check what's fitted in the morning (it was dark when I got home). From previous threads on here it sounds like it's worth going for the 150A as it lasts longer/runs better and just drop into volvo to get the software update. Annoying if necessary as I'm sure that wont be cheap!
I'm hoping I've got a 150A! My car has the winter pack and I've heard rumor this means its likely to have been fitted as standard with 150A rather than 120A. |
Feb 11th, 2013, 21:58 | #6 | |
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Quote:
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Feb 11th, 2013, 22:03 | #7 |
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The engine is the 2.0d 2007. Are there variations of this engine/could it differ from that described in the Haynes manual?
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Feb 11th, 2013, 22:29 | #8 |
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Don't think so, it should all be as shown in the manual. Does it say 15mm spanner? I just have the two square holes on my tensioner (1.6d) for the tensioner tool, but like I said, a 1/4 inch drive 'sort of fits'. I don't normally bother with locking the tensioner with a drill bit because I find that you only need to move the tensioner long enough to get the belt off or back on.
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Last edited by S40Matt; Feb 11th, 2013 at 22:32. |
Feb 11th, 2013, 22:49 | #9 |
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It doesn't seem to mention which size spanner. If it's easy to lock off I'll probably go for it but good to know that it's not essential.
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Feb 11th, 2013, 22:50 | #10 |
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If it turns out I have a 120A and I fit a 150A as replacement would it be likely to do any damage driving ~30miles to get the software upgrade?
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