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Heater Controls?

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Old Nov 2nd, 2008, 08:21   #1
Alf ista
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Default Heater Controls?

Can someone explain to me please how exactly the Amazon heater controls work? I find the manual I have to be a bit unclear on this. Can I control just to screen, just to footwell, just to back seat, mixture of the above, hot, cold, etc? I have a 1970 left hand drive German import so some of the text on the controls is not in English. The fan works fine. Thanks.
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Old Nov 2nd, 2008, 10:58   #2
biggles24
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Default heater control levers

Hello,
LEFT floor. CENTRE screen RIGHT temperature .

Regards,
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Old Nov 2nd, 2008, 11:19   #3
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Left is front floor - up is airflow off, down is on.

Middle is screen and rear floor - up is airflow off, down is on.

Right is temperature - up is 'cold' air, down is hot air.
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Old Nov 2nd, 2008, 13:49   #4
the.goodhumorman
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Well, that is assuming your control valve isn't frozen solid. Then the far right would be:
up is hot air, down is hot air. Or visa versa.
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Old Nov 2nd, 2008, 19:10   #5
Gavin122S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the.goodhumorman View Post
Well, that is assuming your control valve isn't frozen solid. Then the far right would be:
up is hot air, down is hot air. Or visa versa.
Thats how mine currently functions, its one of the jobs nearer the bottom of my list though!

I find that as long as the drivers quarter light window is open, even by a few mm, the windows generally don't mist up too much anyway.
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Old Nov 2nd, 2008, 20:55   #6
the.goodhumorman
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I was reading something about flushing the heater control with something to "uncatch" the valve. I havent seen it in some time, but if I do, I will keep this in mind.
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Old Nov 2nd, 2008, 22:12   #7
Ron Kwas
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Alf ista;

The rear seat floor air is activated at the same time windshield defrost is (reference owners manual), so if you're not getting adequite defrost (this can also be caused by a heater core obstructed by biomass which needs to be cleaned away, or low voltage to the blower moter due to electrical issues which need to be sorted), and you don't have any rear seat passengers who will complain about cold tootsies, then block the rear floor vent outlets with some foam...this will leave more air for the defroster...

PS Often, sluggish cables, from choke, to E-Brake, to heater control, are caused by internal rust and/or lack of lubrication...this is worth checking also

Cheers
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Old Nov 3rd, 2008, 00:35   #8
Alf ista
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Thanks a million lads for the excellent tips. Really I just needed to know what the levers did. As far as I am aware it works perfectly, I think the last owner replaced the control valve. I havent been able to drive it as much as I would have hoped over the last few weeks as I am still waiting to replace the water pump and I dont want to drive it too far until this job is done. I have been busy decking out my garage attic trying to create more storage space. Once done, I will tackle the water pump.
Another question, am I right in thinking that the heater control should be set to on when draining the water from the system, in order to prevent an air lock or something? If so, then this thread is very timely!
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Old Nov 3rd, 2008, 01:12   #9
biggles24
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Default heater controls

Hello,
I always open the control levers, all three because if it does no good it does no harm!It still doesn t guarantee no air lock for me.Ifind filling slowly helps too.
HTH.
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Old Nov 3rd, 2008, 09:22   #10
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You'll probably get an airlock anyway as the heater pipes etc run above the height of the engine. Easy to clear it though - if your car is the later type with the expansion bottle, left it off its mountings and find something to hold it higher up, so that it's entirely above the radiator. Then with the cap off, and the engine running, squeeze the top hose but take great care to keep clear of the fan....!!! (I normally just use the palm of my hand to press down hard on the top of the hose)

This will 'burp' the system - you'll probably have to squeeze the hose quite a few times, and keep an eye on the coolant in the expansion bottle as the level will probably drop quite quickly!
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