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Exhaust manifold - your experience appreciated please

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Old Sep 18th, 2021, 21:08   #1
daveo2002
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Default Exhaust manifold - your experience appreciated please

The exhaust wastegate stuck closed on my wonderful 1998 940 LPT recently and she started venting exhaust from the face where the hotside of the turbo bolts onto the exhaust manifold.

The car's covered 115k now and it's earnt some tlc. I have a new turbo on its way complete with lines and fitting etc and I'm planning to do the job myself. So far I have removed the old turbo and I'm thinking what to do whilst the replacement is shipped.

Whats the consensus on the exhaust manifold and gaskets? There's obviously been a lot of heat trapped there and me leaning on spanners to free off the old nuts and bolts. But, prior to dismantling, I didn't see any leaks when I did the soapy water test. Overkill or shrewd to replace do you think?

What other jobs are worth doing whilst it's apart? I'm going to put on a fresh O2 sensor since I have one handy.
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Old Sep 18th, 2021, 21:35   #2
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Originally Posted by daveo2002 View Post
The exhaust wastegate stuck closed on my wonderful 1998 940 LPT recently and she started venting exhaust from the face where the hotside of the turbo bolts onto the exhaust manifold.

The car's covered 115k now and it's earnt some tlc. I have a new turbo on its way complete with lines and fitting etc and I'm planning to do the job myself. So far I have removed the old turbo and I'm thinking what to do whilst the replacement is shipped.

Whats the consensus on the exhaust manifold and gaskets? There's obviously been a lot of heat trapped there and me leaning on spanners to free off the old nuts and bolts. But, prior to dismantling, I didn't see any leaks when I did the soapy water test. Overkill or shrewd to replace do you think?

What other jobs are worth doing whilst it's apart? I'm going to put on a fresh O2 sensor since I have one handy.
One thing i know a lot of turbo owners have trouble with are the coolant pipes, they tend to fur up inside so worth inspecting and/or renewing those. Also the oil drain back to the sump, i belive Luke has part numbers for the seals and will no doubt be along at some point to give you some pointers on that and the part numbers.

Probably a smidge overdue on Lambda replacement so a wise move on that as well, sure you're going to do an oil/filter change once the new turbo is on there, you know about letting it idle for a minute or so before switching off?
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Old Sep 23rd, 2021, 10:12   #3
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Thanks Dave. Yep I'll be fitting fresh pipework and she'll get an oil change when it's all installed. I decided to change the exhaust gaskets, studs etc whilst I've got everything apart. Rather do it right than twice!
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Old Sep 28th, 2021, 15:14   #4
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The exhaust gaskets could well be past best, probably better to check and replace them while its off. Also you can check the manifold for cracks and flatness, especially if its been overboosted/heated with the stuck wastegate. Don't forget there is a bolt+bracket at the bottom of the manifold. The cracks can be welded fairly easily, its good quality material (if its original Volvo).
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Old Sep 28th, 2021, 18:34   #5
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Exhaust manifold studs x8 953047
Turbo return seal 1306264

Don't forget you will need copper washers for the banjo bolts on the turbo, the exhaust manifold gaskets are NLA, Mark had the last ones from Volvo the jammy sod! But the aftermarket PPS ones are actually good quality and I've had no issues with them.
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Old Sep 29th, 2021, 15:58   #6
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Thank you gents. I pulled the exhaust manifold over the weekend. The gaskets were in a bad state but I was lucky with the manifold. Its cleaned up beautifully.

As soon as parts come I will reassemble. New studs, nuts, washer, gaskets etc. I am going to add the turbo-manifold gasket from an 850 and pop a new turbo on with new pipework and seals. I can share part numbers and suppliers for all the kit, if it would help anyone?

Whilst it's all apart I've decided to change heater hoses, heater valve and engine mounts. Wish me luck!
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Old Oct 14th, 2021, 15:43   #7
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Thank you gents. I pulled the exhaust manifold over the weekend. The gaskets were in a bad state but I was lucky with the manifold. Its cleaned up beautifully.

As soon as parts come I will reassemble. New studs, nuts, washer, gaskets etc. I am going to add the turbo-manifold gasket from an 850 and pop a new turbo on with new pipework and seals. I can share part numbers and suppliers for all the kit, if it would help anyone?

Whilst it's all apart I've decided to change heater hoses, heater valve and engine mounts. Wish me luck!
Hi Dave, I would be interested in part numbers and suppliers please
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Old Oct 14th, 2021, 18:24   #8
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Worth changing the rubber hoses to the heat exchanger whilst you’re working on the car- the two under the oil filter. Because of their location they get doused in old engine oil every time the filter is changed which isn’t good for them.

And I was going to suggest a gasket from an 850 between the manifold and the turbo, but you already know about that.

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Old Oct 15th, 2021, 16:39   #9
daveo2002
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Definitely BugJ, those oil cooler hoses were totally shot.

Parts and Suppliers... Huge thanks to Brookhouse Classic Volvo Parts for their help and a shout-out to Skandix for their very comprehensive website.

This is for a 1998 940 B230FK M90,

Heater hoses came from Skandix - their reference 1028237 for the upper hose and for the lower hose I cut a mash-up of parts 1017855 and 1017358. Truthfully either of those could be persuaded to fit on its own, but having both made for a neat job.
The new heater valve is skandix part 1017972 (volvo 9447896). Really nice quality part.

Engine mounts (x2) were from Brookhouse (B1378657) and same part fits both sides of the car. Switching these whilst the heater hoses are disconnected, and the turbo out of the way, just makes a lot of sense.

Oil cooler hoses were do88 kit ref 167 which was from PFS. That didn't include any jubilees, so a selection of 14-22/16-25mm stainless is needed as well.

Oil cooler rebuild required three seals which Brookhouse found for me.
967343 - slim green seal which fits to block
3547188 - thick black seal which fits internally
957189 - aluminium crush washer for banjo bolt (or skandix ref 1017141)
Once dismantled, I recommend letting the oil cooler sit in WD40 or similar for a few days to soften the crud before giving it a good clean with brake cleaner. I was amazed how much muck it released.

Turbo/Manifold fixings:
All the studs and nuts were M8-1.25 threads with 13mm heads. It really helped having a stubby tap wrench to clear the threads, which was £8 from amazon.

The turbo-downpipe studs (3) came from Skandix, ref 1022606/1357769
The turbo-manifold gasket (1) came from Skandix, ref 1021401/8642450
The turbo-manifold studs (4) also Skandix, ref 1017355/13362617
Nuts for the turbo (7) also Skandix, ref 1017358/977209

The exhaust manifold gaskets (4) came from Brookhouse, ref B271704
The exhaust manifold studs (8) also Brookhouse, ref 953049
(953047 would also work, slightly (2mm) stubbier)
The flat washers for the manifold (6) also Brookhouse, ref 949362
Nuts for the exhaust manifold (8) also Brookhouse, ref 985868

Turbo plumbing:
The Kinugawa turbo came with its own fitting kit with stainless braided teflon hoses and AN connectors. Noteworthy points were the supplied 1.5mm restrictor for oil supply line and the general decent quality of the fittings.
However, the fit for the oil drain line is hopeless, a teflon hose just can't bend to the radius needed. I tried a Mamba kit with similar results. Keep the stock lines in your back pocket! The oil return pipe seal (to block) is available from Skandix and Brookhouse, ref 1306264.

Last edited by daveo2002; Oct 15th, 2021 at 18:47.
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