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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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Heated seat stuck onViews : 2250 Replies : 25Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Sep 24th, 2021, 10:21 | #21 | |
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Sep 24th, 2021, 10:28 | #22 |
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Yes and you're likely to find it's not a widely available bulb. You may be lucky and you have a normal bulb but it could well be a Volvo special. They can be rewired if you're good with a soldering iron and a Dremel though.
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Sep 24th, 2021, 11:47 | #23 |
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From what I've read it's another one of those Volvo bulb holders with a capless 1.2w soldered into it. Just did the one in the rear ashtray. To buy with the holder best price was £11!
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Sep 24th, 2021, 12:46 | #24 | |
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Find where the wire ends are welded onto the tabs and snip the wire there. Pull the old, dead bulb out. Use a Dremel (or similar) with a 1mm drill bit in and drill through from the bulb end to enlarge the holes in the holder for the wires. Now the method changes depending whether you're using grain-of-wheat bulbs or LEDs. If using the bulbs, feed the wires through and solder them to the tabs, snip off the excess wires, fit and test. For the LEDs, cut one leg down to ~1/4" long and tin it with solder. Do this as quickly as possible to minisise heat transfer. Cut one resistor leg to ~1/4" and tin that as well. Hold the LED securely, pick up the long leng of the resistor with some long nosed pliers and heat the short, tinned end then as the solder begins to melt, line the short leg of the resistor up on the LED, keeping the heat on just long enough for the tinning on the LED to flow into the tinning on the resistor then remove the heat. Hold until the solder has cooled naturally - don't blow on it, you'll create a dry joint. Measure the diameter of the resistor body, usually about 2.8mm and select a drill bit slightly larger like 3mm. Drill one of the wire holes in the holder out to 3mm, just deep enough for the resistor and LED to fit flush where the original bulb was. Now feed the LED/resistor assembly into the holder with the long leg of the LED one side and the long resistor leg through the enlarged hole in the holder for it. Solder those legs onto the tabs, snip off the excess and fit and test. If it doesn't work, unplug the connector, rotate 180 degrees, refit and test - it should work. In both cases you'll need a small-tipped soldering iron of about 25-30W maximum, preferably a temperature controlled jobby. Use thin 60/40 tin/lead multicore solder. http://spiratronics.com/0.25w-carbon...stor-680r.html https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263106931804 Pick green, 10-pack for £1.99, much cheaper than buying multiples of 1 at £1.59 each! Resistors and LEDs ^^^^^ https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154189018515 Grain-of-Wheat bulbs ^^^^^ - best deal i could find for the right sort of size although they're a little small.
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Sep 24th, 2021, 16:10 | #25 |
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Those Bulbs.
I may be wrong as it is quite some time since I did it BUT…
some of the panel light bulbs are as you describe with the bulb permanently fitted to the holder but IIRC some of them use an identical holder which is fitted with a removable capless bulb. I think that in the past I have been able to substitute the fixed bulb holder with a capless bulb holder.j The fixed bulb and holder were available from dealer, VO30710781. Halfords bulbs : 286 (1.2w capless) and 504 (3w capless) will fit the holders for the removeable bulbs.
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Sep 24th, 2021, 17:31 | #26 | |
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Also just FYI, the 3W bulb is for alternator warning lamp use only, it will melt the trim and/or switch/housing if used for illuminating switches etc because it's 2.5 times the power and therefore hotter. Alternator rotors need ~0.25A to excite them so they charge when the engine is turning, from Ohms Law 3W/12V = 0.25A or if you prefer, 1/4A which is the same thing anyway. Once the alternator is charging, the warning light remains off so the amount of heat produced is tolerable for the plastics in the instrument cluster. The 1.2W 286s produce 10-30Lm, the LED version as described above is ~25-40Lm so is marginaly brighter but without the heat. The LED only consumes 3V x 0.20A = 0.060W or 60mW so is much cooler and kinder to 30 year old plastic!
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