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Heated seat stuck on

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Old Sep 24th, 2021, 11:21   #21
vickyg
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Originally Posted by 360beast View Post
Nice work on fixing it

For future reference the centre console trim is very easy to remove.

Two torx screws in the middle, pull the ash tray out and the fuse cover, under the fuse cover is a little metal clip that holds the trim in place. Remove the clip and lift the trim out, it is easier if the handbrake is about 2/3rds on so it doesn't get caught on it.
My torx screws are very very rusty. Would removing that panel also help me get at the bulb under the auto shifter? I'm being picky now but I like things to work
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Old Sep 24th, 2021, 11:28   #22
Laird Scooby
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My torx screws are very very rusty. Would removing that panel also help me get at the bulb under the auto shifter? I'm being picky now but I like things to work
Yes and you're likely to find it's not a widely available bulb. You may be lucky and you have a normal bulb but it could well be a Volvo special. They can be rewired if you're good with a soldering iron and a Dremel though.
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Old Sep 24th, 2021, 12:47   #23
vickyg
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Yes and you're likely to find it's not a widely available bulb. You may be lucky and you have a normal bulb but it could well be a Volvo special. They can be rewired if you're good with a soldering iron and a Dremel though.
From what I've read it's another one of those Volvo bulb holders with a capless 1.2w soldered into it. Just did the one in the rear ashtray. To buy with the holder best price was £11!
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Old Sep 24th, 2021, 13:46   #24
Laird Scooby
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From what I've read it's another one of those Volvo bulb holders with a capless 1.2w soldered into it. Just did the one in the rear ashtray. To buy with the holder best price was £11!
Two choices, buy some "grain-of-wheat" bulbs or some high-brightness, flat-top green LEDs (green is closest to the original look) with 680 Ohm resistors and remove the old bulb holder complete with dead bulb.

Find where the wire ends are welded onto the tabs and snip the wire there. Pull the old, dead bulb out.

Use a Dremel (or similar) with a 1mm drill bit in and drill through from the bulb end to enlarge the holes in the holder for the wires. Now the method changes depending whether you're using grain-of-wheat bulbs or LEDs.

If using the bulbs, feed the wires through and solder them to the tabs, snip off the excess wires, fit and test.

For the LEDs, cut one leg down to ~1/4" long and tin it with solder. Do this as quickly as possible to minisise heat transfer. Cut one resistor leg to ~1/4" and tin that as well. Hold the LED securely, pick up the long leng of the resistor with some long nosed pliers and heat the short, tinned end then as the solder begins to melt, line the short leg of the resistor up on the LED, keeping the heat on just long enough for the tinning on the LED to flow into the tinning on the resistor then remove the heat. Hold until the solder has cooled naturally - don't blow on it, you'll create a dry joint.

Measure the diameter of the resistor body, usually about 2.8mm and select a drill bit slightly larger like 3mm. Drill one of the wire holes in the holder out to 3mm, just deep enough for the resistor and LED to fit flush where the original bulb was.
Now feed the LED/resistor assembly into the holder with the long leg of the LED one side and the long resistor leg through the enlarged hole in the holder for it. Solder those legs onto the tabs, snip off the excess and fit and test. If it doesn't work, unplug the connector, rotate 180 degrees, refit and test - it should work.

In both cases you'll need a small-tipped soldering iron of about 25-30W maximum, preferably a temperature controlled jobby. Use thin 60/40 tin/lead multicore solder.

http://spiratronics.com/0.25w-carbon...stor-680r.html

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263106931804
Pick green, 10-pack for £1.99, much cheaper than buying multiples of 1 at £1.59 each!

Resistors and LEDs ^^^^^

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154189018515

Grain-of-Wheat bulbs ^^^^^ - best deal i could find for the right sort of size although they're a little small.
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Old Sep 24th, 2021, 17:10   #25
Ian21401
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Default Those Bulbs.

I may be wrong as it is quite some time since I did it BUT…
some of the panel light bulbs are as you describe with the bulb permanently fitted to the holder but IIRC some of them use an identical holder which is fitted with a removable capless bulb. I think that in the past I have been able to substitute the fixed bulb holder with a capless bulb holder.j
The fixed bulb and holder were available from dealer, VO30710781.
Halfords bulbs : 286 (1.2w capless) and 504 (3w capless) will fit the holders for the removeable bulbs.
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Old Sep 24th, 2021, 18:31   #26
Laird Scooby
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I may be wrong as it is quite some time since I did it BUT…
some of the panel light bulbs are as you describe with the bulb permanently fitted to the holder but IIRC some of them use an identical holder which is fitted with a removable capless bulb. I think that in the past I have been able to substitute the fixed bulb holder with a capless bulb holder.j
The fixed bulb and holder were available from dealer, VO30710781.
Halfords bulbs : 286 (1.2w capless) and 504 (3w capless) will fit the holders for the removeable bulbs.
Good call on those bulbholders with the replaceable 286 Ian, i wasn't so lucky with my 760, all were hard-wired.

Also just FYI, the 3W bulb is for alternator warning lamp use only, it will melt the trim and/or switch/housing if used for illuminating switches etc because it's 2.5 times the power and therefore hotter.

Alternator rotors need ~0.25A to excite them so they charge when the engine is turning, from Ohms Law 3W/12V = 0.25A or if you prefer, 1/4A which is the same thing anyway.
Once the alternator is charging, the warning light remains off so the amount of heat produced is tolerable for the plastics in the instrument cluster.

The 1.2W 286s produce 10-30Lm, the LED version as described above is ~25-40Lm so is marginaly brighter but without the heat. The LED only consumes 3V x 0.20A = 0.060W or 60mW so is much cooler and kinder to 30 year old plastic!
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