Ongoing no start 940 and other woes!

[kiloran]

Moving on to lesser issues regarding the battery flatting and amp draw. On my '92 for some reason the radio amp is permanently on. Pull fuse 26 (bottom row, right hand side) to rule it out. Only noticed it over lockdown when I returned to a flat battery after not driving for a week.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by kiloran

Moving on to lesser issues regarding the battery flatting and amp draw. On my '92 for some reason the radio amp is permanently on. Pull fuse 26 (bottom row, right hand side) to rule it out. Only noticed it over lockdown when I returned to a flat battery after not driving for a week.

Open this pdf and scroll to Pg15 for the radio/amp diagrams.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4b...JjEzuIVS-0G8tQ

Looking at the diagram, it would appear the amp is switched on and off by the radio. That suggests the radio was either left on or has deveoped a fault. You could unplug the round DIN connector from the amp (leaving fuse #26 in place) to see if it still pulls current and flattens the battery.

Not shown on that diagram but must be in there somewhere, should be a switched +ve feed from the accessories (position 1) of the ignition switch. If my hunch about the amp being switched by the radio is correct, this will be piggy-backed from the radio via the DIN lead. In other words, not easily accessible. Also some power amps are permanently powered and have an input sensing circuit that "wakes them up" when an audio input is detected.

Another option would be to buy one of the upgrade kits available on fleabay and fit a more modern head unit with built in power amp, use the supplied bypass patch lead to go past the existing amp (which will be disconnected by removing the DIN lead and OE head unit) to the speakers. They come with a fascia plate adaptor that looks OE (i've used one in the past) and is pretty much plug'n'play.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184399844881

That's one option, same seller has other options available for the 740 (and 940) if that one doesn't suit your tastes/pocket.
Problem solved and a new, better quality head unit that will sound loads better than the old one whose components will have gone out of tolerance so will never sound good, even with new speakers.

A cost-effective option would be to buy a fused 4-pin automotive relay with socket and wiring, fit male blade crimps on the ends of the contact wires (#30 & #87) then fit those in place of fuse #26, use fuse #26 in the fuseholder on the relay and then take pin #85 of the relay to earth (busbar in the central electrical board aka fuseboard) and pin #86 to an accessory switched +ve feed so the amp only gets power when the key is in position 1 or more.
However, if the radio is faulty and still feeding the amp (and presumably its own circuits too) then this would only solve half the problem.

[vickyg]

I will certainly see if pulling the radio stops the amp draw. It only works on one side anywhere and the door speaker cones are rotten.

I'd be interested has anyone had luck removing and DIY cleaning their injectors, do I need to replace all the o-rings if I attempt this? It would appear getting new injectors for this car is near impossible. Even for nearly £50 each on eBay they're "used"

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by vickyg

I will certainly see if pulling the radio stops the amp draw. It only works on one side anywhere and the door speaker cones are rotten.

I'd be interested has anyone had luck removing and DIY cleaning their injectors, do I need to replace all the o-rings if I attempt this? It would appear getting new injectors for this car is near impossible. Even for nearly £50 each on eBay they're "used"

Correct me if i'm wrong Vicky but yours is a B230E engine? If so, you're not going to be able to clean the injectors if you remove them as you won't be able to generate the opening pressure easily. With the electronic injectors, you can open them by applying a voltage to them (what voltage depends on the injectors) and running a solvent through to clean them.

Volvo sell the 8 injector "O" rings for about £16-20 for the K-Jetronic (B230E) and they also (i believe) sell the "O" rings for the electronic injection (again 8 "O" rings) but no idea on price.

[kiloran]

Thanks Dave, not a big priority for me as it adds to character of the car if I'm honest. With radio off and fuse in place the thing sounds like it's haunted - all sorts of pops and crackles from the speakers. Rarely use the radio as I hardly ever do long runs on my own and we have highly divergent/incompatible musical tastes in the family

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by kiloran

Thanks Dave, not a big priority for me as it adds to character of the car if I'm honest. With radio off and fuse in place the thing sounds like it's haunted - all sorts of pops and crackles from the speakers. Rarely use the radio as I hardly ever do long runs on my own and we have highly divergent/incompatible musical tastes in the family

That sounds horribly like the amp has gone faulty or the radio - i'd try unplugging the DIN lead just to see and find the cause because i'm like that - always like to know the cause of the problem even if i don't do anything about it!

[vickyg]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Correct me if i'm wrong Vicky but yours is a B230E engine? If so, you're not going to be able to clean the injectors if you remove them as you won't be able to generate the opening pressure easily. With the electronic injectors, you can open them by applying a voltage to them (what voltage depends on the injectors) and running a solvent through to clean them.

Volvo sell the 8 injector "O" rings for about £16-20 for the K-Jetronic (B230E) and they also (i believe) sell the "O" rings for the electronic injection (again 8 "O" rings) but no idea on price.

B200FT so I was hoping to put on a bench, apply suitable voltage and spray. The car is trying to start now but still won't, so I'm guessing at clogged injectors.

[vickyg]

So my injectors have part no 280150804 which all advice says is for the 2.3l engine. Confused.

[vickyg]

Another update on this. I think the engine is a write off from the rain ingress. Smoke visible from the dipstick tube. Beyond my DIY skills so I'm trying to get someone to come out to confirm the diagnosis. Gutted that rain appears to have destroyed this car

Much thanks to folk on this group for sharing their knowledge to try and get us up and running again.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by vickyg

So my injectors have part no 280150804 which all advice says is for the 2.3l engine. Confused.

The 0 280 150 804 injectors are specified for the B200FT as per Pg 19 of this pdf :

http://www.myvolvolibrary.info/Tech_...DataPocket.pdf

Take the plugs out, clean, dry and gap them correctly (0.65-0.7mm) and dribble some engine oil into the plugholes to soak in while you clean/gap/dry the plugs.
Cover the plug holes with rags and spin the engine on the starter to expel the excess oil. Refit the plugs and try starting again. If it won't start fairly quickly, spray some EaziStart into the air intake while someone else turns the engine over with the key.

If you have or can get hold of a borescope/boroscope, feed it into the plug holes in turn before adding the oil to inspect the pistons, valves etc to make sure there's nothing obvious like a gaping hole in any pistons.