Best way to remove ARB droplink 'ends'?

[280E]

Well, I finally got round to addressing the knackered front spring seats this morning. As usual, the ARB droplink ends proved to be a pain - the hex recess in the 'pin' rounding out, unable to resist the rusted-up nut.

I'd used plenty of Plus-gas and wire-brushed the threads, but this often happens no matter how careful you are. I think the links may even be originals!

I ended up just Dremeling through the rod in order to remove the strut, which leaves the task of removing the ends from strut and roll bar end. In the past, I've just attacked the nut with the same Dremel - eventually weakening the nut until it can be chiselled off.

Is there a better way to remove these nuts? Access is a bit tight for a conventional nut splitter - at least the type I have available. It's also easy to nick the metal facing the nut, and this being a flanged type doesn't help.

Sometimes I've been able to hammer a torx or multi-spline bit into the rounded-out recess, but often the metal seems quite soft and just continues to round out.

[ITSv40]

In the past, I have just cut the nut in two with a hacksaw. Saw down the centre line of the threaded stud on the drop link until nearly through the flange of the nut and finish off with a small chisel in the saw cut to finally split the nut in two. That is assuming room to get the hacksaw in. An angle grinder with a thin blade in is quick.

[280E]

Originally Posted by ITSv40

In the past, I have just cut the nut in two with a hacksaw. Saw down the centre line of the threaded stud on the drop link until nearly through the flange of the nut and finish off with a small chisel in the saw cut to finally split the nut in two. That is assuming room to get the hacksaw in. An angle grinder with a thin blade in is quick.

Sounds like a plan!

[Shortos]

I cut off the rubber boot and then molegrip the ball joint. They usually buzz off with a torque wrench then

[cheshired5]

After the fact now unfortunately but if you have an impact wrench, I leave the links whole and uncut and use a jack under the hub to vary the tension on the link until it's at an angle that will hold the thread enough for the impact wrench to do its job on the nut.
Exactly the same when fitting new but rarely necessary with an impact.

If you have cut links and hand wrenches only, the Dremel on the nut is your best option.

[280E]

Yes, I tried an impact wrench at a variety of angles / preloading but with no joy. I must admit to cutting the rod in a fit of pique after shedding blood on some unseen sharp edge

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by 280E

I must admit to cutting the rod in a fit of pique after shedding blood on some unseen sharp edge

Haha, we've all been there.
My bugbear is manually turning a D5 when doing the timing belt.
You're putting everything into turning it then it will just let go and leave most of your knuckle flesh on the wishbone.

[280E]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

Haha, we've all been there.
My bugbear is manually turning a D5 when doing the timing belt.
You're putting everything into turning it then it will just let go and leave most of your knuckle flesh on the wishbone.

Yes indeed! Usually happens when your hands are covered in filth and you catch sight of those glistening beads of red

[DaveNP]

Like others after regular spanners, followed by an impact driver, my response was an angle grinder and an SDS Drill/Chisel, it ain't pretty but it did the job.

[T5R92011]

It always helps if you go to the opposite side of the car and ever so slighly jack up the control arm, just to remove the bulk of the tension from the droplinks.