V70: Engine - D3 Cam Belt Replacement

MartinStortford · Jul 2nd, 2021, 16:25

Hello, I'm new to this forum, and new back to maintaining my own car after over 30 years.

I'm trying to replace the timing belt on my 2011, 5 cylinder D3 ( D5204 T3 engine).
Using the Haynes manual as reference, I can not get the top half of the timing belt cover off - the cover clips are off and the rather inaccessible centre bolt has been removed.

The LH wheel arch liner is removed.

The more I look at the lack of access to the idler and tensioner pulleys (also to be replaced) I'm convinced that the only way to remove the cover and get access to the pulleys is to remove the engine mounting assembly above.

I'd like to know if this assumption is correct, or am I missing something simple.
If so, will the engine need supporting (assuming the body is jacked and the wheels are off the road) and where is the best place to support the engine.

I would be most grateful for any assistance.

Many thanks in anticipation.

Martin

FreshAir · Jul 2nd, 2021, 16:44

I have never done it and would get a garage to do it for me - full respect for you doing it your self.

Maybe this YT video will help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOQse-cekKc

wilbydoughboy · Jul 2nd, 2021, 17:36

https://youtu.be/PRTSTUSSz7s

If you copy and paste the above, it maybe of help.

MartinStortford · Jul 2nd, 2021, 18:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by FreshAir

I have never done it and would get a garage to do it for me - full respect for you doing it your self.

Maybe this YT video will help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOQse-cekKc

Thanks. The D5 as shown does not have the engine mounts getting in the way. The video did raise some issues for me - mainly the need for a much bigger torque wrench. Martin

XC70Virgin · Jul 3rd, 2021, 07:39

Martin, you will need to support the engine from below and remove the to mount, yes. Not very hard to do but a bit of a faff to an already awkward job. I used a trolley jack with a piece of timber to support the engine. You can use it then to realign the holes when putting the mount back on.

Hope that helps.

MartinStortford · Jul 3rd, 2021, 13:48

Many thanks, your comments are much appreciated and I'm clearer on the way forward.
Out of interest, did you use a breaker bar or impact wrench to remove the crank nut?
Thanks again,
Martin

XC70Virgin · Jul 3rd, 2021, 14:14

Martin, I marked the nut with a black marker and on the pulley and used an impact gun to get it off. That way I didn't need the locking tool. Despite the recommendation not to I reused the nut and impacted it to realign the marks. Not very scientific but it works and it hasn't budged in 12 months. You'll need an impact gun that will deal with at least 400Nm to ensure you get the required 300Nm on the nut.

XC70Virgin · Jul 3rd, 2021, 14:16

Incidentally, a breaker bar will not work if you're working on a garage floor as you'll never get access for the required leverage.

MartinStortford · Jul 3rd, 2021, 15:33

You have raised a very good point about breaker bar leverage. I suppose using a extension bar to work outside the line of the wheel arch would be an alternative but this presents possible risks of alignment issues with the nut/shaft. I don't know whether an extension would pass the brake disk. Otherwise hiring an impact wrench seems to be on the cards.
Thanks again,
Martin

MartinStortford · Jul 3rd, 2021, 15:36

Thanks, it confirms what I thought.
Martin

Jul 2nd, 2021, 16:25	#1
MartinStortford Martin Berry Last Online: Mar 11th, 2023 17:29 Join Date: Jul 2021 Location: Bishop's Stortford	D3 Cam Belt Replacement Hello, I'm new to this forum, and new back to maintaining my own car after over 30 years. I'm trying to replace the timing belt on my 2011, 5 cylinder D3 ( D5204 T3 engine). Using the Haynes manual as reference, I can not get the top half of the timing belt cover off - the cover clips are off and the rather inaccessible centre bolt has been removed. The LH wheel arch liner is removed. The more I look at the lack of access to the idler and tensioner pulleys (also to be replaced) I'm convinced that the only way to remove the cover and get access to the pulleys is to remove the engine mounting assembly above. I'd like to know if this assumption is correct, or am I missing something simple. If so, will the engine need supporting (assuming the body is jacked and the wheels are off the road) and where is the best place to support the engine. I would be most grateful for any assistance. Many thanks in anticipation. Martin Last edited by MartinStortford; Jul 2nd, 2021 at 17:56.

Jul 2nd, 2021, 17:36	#3
wilbydoughboy Senior Member Last Online: Jan 7th, 2024 19:47 Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Wilby	https://youtu.be/PRTSTUSSz7s If you copy and paste the above, it maybe of help. __________________ Volvo XC60 2.4 Drive SE 2010

Jul 3rd, 2021, 07:39	#5
XC70Virgin Member Last Online: Apr 18th, 2024 22:32 Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: Newry	Martin, you will need to support the engine from below and remove the to mount, yes. Not very hard to do but a bit of a faff to an already awkward job. I used a trolley jack with a piece of timber to support the engine. You can use it then to realign the holes when putting the mount back on. Hope that helps. __________________ Feb 2010 XC70 SE Lux in White. T6.

Jul 3rd, 2021, 14:14	#7
XC70Virgin Member Last Online: Apr 18th, 2024 22:32 Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: Newry	Martin, I marked the nut with a black marker and on the pulley and used an impact gun to get it off. That way I didn't need the locking tool. Despite the recommendation not to I reused the nut and impacted it to realign the marks. Not very scientific but it works and it hasn't budged in 12 months. You'll need an impact gun that will deal with at least 400Nm to ensure you get the required 300Nm on the nut. __________________ Feb 2010 XC70 SE Lux in White. T6.

Jul 3rd, 2021, 14:16	#8
XC70Virgin Member Last Online: Apr 18th, 2024 22:32 Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: Newry	Incidentally, a breaker bar will not work if you're working on a garage floor as you'll never get access for the required leverage. __________________ Feb 2010 XC70 SE Lux in White. T6.

Jul 2nd, 2021, 16:44	#2
FreshAir Senior Member Last Online: Yesterday 17:42 Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Lichfield	I have never done it and would get a garage to do it for me - full respect for you doing it your self. Maybe this YT video will help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOQse-cekKc

Jul 3rd, 2021, 13:48	#6
MartinStortford Martin Berry Last Online: Mar 11th, 2023 17:29 Join Date: Jul 2021 Location: Bishop's Stortford	Many thanks, your comments are much appreciated and I'm clearer on the way forward. Out of interest, did you use a breaker bar or impact wrench to remove the crank nut? Thanks again, Martin

Jul 3rd, 2021, 15:33	#9
MartinStortford Martin Berry Last Online: Mar 11th, 2023 17:29 Join Date: Jul 2021 Location: Bishop's Stortford	You have raised a very good point about breaker bar leverage. I suppose using a extension bar to work outside the line of the wheel arch would be an alternative but this presents possible risks of alignment issues with the nut/shaft. I don't know whether an extension would pass the brake disk. Otherwise hiring an impact wrench seems to be on the cards. Thanks again, Martin

Jul 3rd, 2021, 15:36	#10
MartinStortford Martin Berry Last Online: Mar 11th, 2023 17:29 Join Date: Jul 2021 Location: Bishop's Stortford	Thanks, it confirms what I thought. Martin

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