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New member here! VVT pulley trouble

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Old Sep 4th, 2018, 17:52   #1
SlySi
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Default New member here! VVT pulley trouble

Hi all,
I've had my trusty 2001 V40 1.6 for 18 months or so now, in which I've done nearly 40,000 faultless miles. Constant trips from Wolverhampton to Newcastle have accounted for the majority of these.
I had a bit of a rattle from the VVT pulley a few months back but was told by a local Volvo specialist to leave it for the time being.
Anyway, fast forward to last week and the rattle gets worse. Turns out it's knackered, so I've got a new one. I'm going to get the cambelt, tensioners and water pump changed as a matter of course at the same time too.
Anything to look out for while the VVT pulley is being changed?
Many thanks in advance.
Si

PS. I paid £350 for the car. It had 87k on it and now 127k. The car is a minter. I'm the 2nd owner and bought it from my neighbour. The service history is like War and Peace. If a bulb went, she took it to the main dealer to get it sorted. I love my V40!!

Last edited by SlySi; Sep 4th, 2018 at 18:43.
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Old Sep 4th, 2018, 21:16   #2
canis
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To do it properly, you need a special tool to hold the camshafts still while the pulley is off. Having said that, a lot of people say the VVT pulley has no proper orientation and can go on at any position, because it is self-adjusting.

I'm not convinced. I reckon it should have a "comfortable" position so it's not having to work harder than it needs to, or it could end up in a situation where it is correcting valve timing constantly instead of just when it needs to. But this is just a hunch.

The other problem will be getting the bottom pulley undone. You'll need to hold the pulley somehow. There's a tool to do this using the starter motor aperture, holding fast the flywheel ring gear. Personally, I drilled some holes (accurately!) in a large piece of angle-iron, and held the pulley that way. It will require considerable effort to undo, and equally this much effort will be required to hold it still, so leverage is key. A strong socket, a good breaker bar, and a tool long enough to hold the pulley is what will be required.

Other stuff to look out for - you'll need to remove the offside engine mounting. This means you'll need to support the engine somehow, and it's very heavy. The ability to lift and lower the engine will also be helpful, to get your tools into the extremely limited space. A jack under it will do at a push, but be aware the engine could "roll" forwards or backwards, which will be putting strain on the other mountings. I made a wooden beam to hang the engine from the lifting hook, supporting it by the suspension turrets. It needs to be strong though, 2x3 wasn't sufficient to hold the weight of the engine on it's own, but it will at least prevent the rolling action.
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Old Sep 4th, 2018, 21:50   #3
harveys
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The repair is going cost more than you paid for the car .
Yes locking tool required and you do need to know what you are doing as the VVT will spin around as there is no keyway to lock to. until it's set up and locked in place.
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Old Sep 5th, 2018, 20:49   #4
pierremcalpine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harveys View Post
The repair is going cost more than you paid for the car .
Yes locking tool required and you do need to know what you are doing as the VVT will spin around as there is no keyway to lock to. until it's set up and locked in place.
If you are taking the VVT off you will have a clear line of sight to the CAM seal behind it. Be sure that it is totally dry. If there is any doubt, replace it!

I can confirm that the VVT can go on in any position (at least that is the case with my '03 1.9 V40. They key is that the cams are locked in place using the tool at the rear of the cams. The instructions call for both cam pulleys to be put on the cams but loosened so that they are free to move left or right (this super important). You then carefully put belt on making sure that both cams can still rotate both ways (i.e. they are not prevented from doing so by the centre screw on the VVT gear OR by the limiting screws (x3) on the non-VVT gear. It is the tensioner that in effect makes the final adjustment to make sure everything is in place exactly. As you put tension on the tensioner, both cam gears will shift until the tension is set. Only then do you tighten the centre bolt on the VVT and the three smaller bolts on the non-VVT gear. And only then can you remove the tool that locks the back of the cams.

As long as the crank has remained lined up throughout this process, you have timed everything exactly right.

Important note: make sure you have lined up the crank with the correct notch on the oil pump. Use lots of light and a mirror to confirm that all is lined up.

The first 2x I did this job I use the crank locking tool. The last time I found that the bolt in the access hole would not come out so I opted to simply line up the crank marks by eye. Worked fine. No movement through.
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Old Sep 18th, 2018, 14:48   #5
bimmer49
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Bit the bullet and changed my VVT after nearly 2 years.

I'd bought a locking kit. I only used the rear of cam lockers but found that 2 bolts to lock the tool to the cams were not in the kit (not supplied). So I had to hunt around for 2 long bolts.

Removing the all the plastics, engine front mount and bracket. Power steering reservoir off and wedged over the cam pulleys.

I jammed a large screwdriver into the exhaust cam pulley (extra resistance) and one small one into the VVT. Slackened off the securing bolt. Detensioned the cam belt.
Released the VVT bolt and moved the pulley. Removed the belt, then the VVT catching the escaping oil from behind.

Checked everything over behind (bearings etc) as I was not replacing the cam belt as it has not done much time or mileage, water pump done 2 years ago.

Fitted the new VVT and belt. Tensioned it up and after removing the cam lockers at the rear, rotated the engine 2 turns. Belt indicator in the central position so that will do for me. tighten all up and refit it all. Change the engine oil and filter with 0w30.

Engine start up and now the chatter has gone.
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