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Damaged b20 cylinder wall

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Old Nov 14th, 2016, 23:04   #11
Derek UK
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The original dynamo bracket can be modified to fit an alternator. Either use a very long bolt right across the bracket with suitable spacers and washers or weld in another rear mount. You can cut off and use the rear one as long as you shorten it and weld it in line with the front. Remove the rubber mounting system and bolt direct to the block. Yes you will have to weld up the holes and redrill. However, if you are tackling the super charger conversion with confidence I expect that a brand new bracket is not beyond your skills!
Or you can use one of these. IPD do a rather posher version too.
http://volvoonderdelen.com/PV444/Ele...-B18-V-604353/
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Old Nov 16th, 2016, 16:12   #12
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Is it possible that the original B20 engine that shipped with the 145S has a K grind Cam in it?

There is a K engraved on the distributor mount of the block.

Is that what it references? Just thinking if it is, would that be an upgrade to transfer over to the B18 i've got hold of?

I'm starting to strip that block and begin transferring and renewing parts on the B18 so it would be a good time to swap camshafts....


Regarding the alternator - Thanks Derek, I'd seen those mounts. I'll just fabricate one I think and try to find a tiny alternator to not get in the way of my steering box...
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Old Nov 16th, 2016, 17:16   #13
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D and K were the original cams with D type and K type injection engines. 145S with carbs would originally had had a C cam.
Not usually cost effective to swap in a used cam and followers. The B20 cam should be carefully checked and measured, any signs of scuffing or wear makes it not worth while. If you are risking it remember that the followers MUST go back on the cam lobe it was running on before.
You can put a new D or K in the B18 with new followers. They are very similar as regards lift but the ramp shape of the K makes for a easier time for the cam gear.
Note that these are general comments. In your case it would be better to have a chat with Roger the Dodger to see what is going on in the engine. It may have a K in it along with a low compression head to suit the SC.
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Old Nov 16th, 2016, 17:22   #14
DWeed144
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Thanks Derek. Yes after posting I did consider that maybe I was being a bit rash. And on looking up the engine number I see it was a C as well. If I had purchased the engine off Roger I would not be in the slightest bit worried. However it came from a random man in Edinburgh so I don't really know what I'm dealing with.
I just removed the rear crankshaft cover and the felt seal is brand new so at least that's a sign of the promised rebuild. I'll have the head off tomorrow to see how it's looking.
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Old Nov 16th, 2016, 18:48   #15
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So I didn't have enough patience to wait for tomorrow.
Heads Off.
I am very pleased to say that it has brand new pistons in it. And what looks like a rebored cylinder block.

However,

It seems difficult to turn over.
I've got the B20 in the same state with the head off, and I can basically set the flywheel spinning. I realise if it's been rebuilt the tolerances will all be tighter and the new rings will have a lot of spring in them, but there was a bit of gunk in it when the head came off so I'm potentially worried that its not normal.

I've never rebuilt an engine so don't have experience of this.

Hopefully all good, in which case I have a lovely new rebuilt engine!

Does anyone know what the codes on the pistons are?

Photos of nice new pistons and not nice gunk on new pistons and the valves.

Head just off with gunk:


Close up:


Cleaned up:



Cylinder Head:
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Old Nov 16th, 2016, 20:34   #16
Michael J
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWeed144 View Post
Does anyone know what the codes on the pistons are?
Just guessing here, as my books are for later engines (B21/23/200/230), but...

+030 is probably overbore size.
84.881 diameter of piston in mm, A means bore grade/size, letters C to G in my book getting larger/further away from nominal spec.
SP0.019 piston/bore clearance in mm.

84.881+0.019 = 85mm exactly. Try measuring it.
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Old Nov 25th, 2016, 18:11   #17
DWeed144
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Default Help! Missing Escutcheon Plate

There have been a few issues swapping from the B20 to the B18 engine, but not too many.
The one I am currently facing is this:
The B20 has a cast aluminium bracket fitted around the bottom of the flywheel which mounts up to the gearbox bellhousing.
The B18 doesn't. I was planning on taking it off the B20 until I looked closer today and realised that there are none of the required bosses cast into the block.
It appears I need an Escustcheon plate for an early B18 motor.
Can someone shed some light on this? Ideally by having one, but alternatively have sharing a photo of what it is I need!

The engine is pretty much fully assembled, currently with the twin carb manifold from the B20, as I thought I should get the engine running before switching to the supercharger. Once I have a slightly reinforced alternator bracket I'll be ready to get it running.

Here it is at the moment:





Missing Aluminium bracket bosses:
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