'98 V70 D5252T engine vibrations

[Galaxie390]

Hi,

The only difference is Rich has an auto box, which he's very recently reported 'juddering' from if I'm correct bud ?
- The engine vibration has always been there since I got the car last year and have done about 9000m.The judder from the gearbox on slowing to a stop is a recent thing.

Now correct me if I'm wrong, when it's in drive there is an active drive from the crank, through the torque converter through the gears and to the wheels, the only thing holding the car back is the brake and the lack of fluid pressure through the TC right ? So the car will be trying to move forwards, which would explain the vibration there. You can do this in a manual car, put it in gear and try to go with the handbrake on, the car struggles and vibrates and will eventually stall. - Yup, agree. The moment you release the brake (even slightly) the vibration lowers significantly.

However when your in park, I know that the box is locked, by some pins, but is there still fluid being pumped through the TC ? or is this bypassed, so the car wont be trying to move forwards ? like having the clutch pressed in on a manual. - AFAIK the fluid is being pumped all the time, the drive results from the the fluid pressure being applied to certain brake bands and circuits. In park I think it justs bypasses and dumps straight to the gearbox sump. When you select a gear, solenoids operate valves which direct the pressurised fluid - experts needed!!

The vibration is present ALL the time at idle, but gets worse when you select any gear. In gear, if you raise the revs from idle (810) to 900-950 the vibration reduces significantly.
I hope all this gibber makes sense lol ! Lol, you certainly make more sense than I do.


When I get chance I'm going to call into an auto box specialist (Cassidy Motors, Robin Hood Ind est), to get their opinion. I'm running out of options.Bye for now,

Rich

[artiedtke]

Originally Posted by Galaxie390

In gear, if you raise the revs from idle (810) to 900-950 the vibration reduces significantly.

This is playing with me. IIRC someone mentioned on here about adjusting the idle speed.

How exactly is this done? I thought it was computer controlled and that's it your done with it. Is it adjustable ?

What should it be idling at ? I'll have to check mine in the morning.

[Galaxie390]

Hi Folks,

Right, a bit more progress.

After going through most of the obvious causes, I thought I'd call into an automatic transmission specialist. He didn't get chance to drive the car due to being stuck under a 2011 Range Rover that was in for a new auto box! (so there's a lesson for you!)

I outlined the symptoms and he reckoned it's the torque converter on its way out. Ball park figures were €1000-1500 to dismantle, fit & re-assemble with a new converter! Now of course it could be somthing else, but either way it's pointing to the gearbox. I'll call again next week and we'll look at the gearbox fault codes and he'll take it for a spin.

So, I have a decision to make:

1) Go ahead with the garage to fit a new converter - can't really afford to
2) Source a 2nd hand box and fit it myself - don't fancy a front off and engine out job
3) Scrap the car - real pity as the car is great in every other respect (lol, but I suppose a car that doesn't go so well, isn't a partic great car then!)
4) Put up with the numb legs from the vibration until the box finally dies.
5) Get a better job and go and buy a brand new car


Cheers,

Rich

PS: raising the revs is currently done with my foot! Sort of got quite used to left foot braking.

[artiedtke]

Option 3 does not exist. No car deserves to die because of a relatively small problem. These really are excellent cars.

Option 5 is unrealistic ;-)

I'm not up to scratch on auto's, but if you were to swap the TC and that sorts the issue, how many more miles do you expect the auto box itself to last, are they generally very reliable ?

€1500 is £1200 !! Surely its no bigger job than a clutch on a manual, could you not fit a reconned TC ?

Ideally we need an auto expert to come along here, how exactly does the TC fail and what exactly causes the vibration ?

Keep us updated, and don't make any stupid desicions.

[Galaxie390]

Lol....ah, the wise words of my diesel 'therapist' : )

'Option 3 does not exist. No car deserves to die because of a relatively small problem. These really are excellent cars.'

I know you're right, and I'd hate to have it's scrapping on my conscience. But the thought of wrestling the subframe/ front off/ engine down fills me dread at the moment. Have asked a couple of local garages to quote for fitting the box, so we'll see what they.


'Option 5 is unrealistic ;-)' ...ha ha ha, you don't how right you are. Flipping burgers just doesn't pay these days. Maybe I should consider a career change, like robbing banks...could be a very profitable line of work ; )

Generally, autos seem to be quite reliable, but do suffer from dirty fluid. If I got another 2 years out of it I'd be happy enough.

In essence i suppose it only like a clutch change, but that looks to be a pain in the a**.

Calling all you auto experts, what woudl fail in the converter?


Bye for now,

Rich

PS: Have a good St Patrick's Day won't you all. I'll enjoy my bank holiday on Monday. Oh, what do you mean you don't have one in the UK this Monday ; )....gloat gloat!

PPS: Being from Birmingham I'm allowed to gloat a little bit!