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850 / S70 & V70 '96-'99 / C70 '97-'05 General Forum for the 850 and P80-platform 70-series models

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my volvo 850se journal

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Old Aug 19th, 2020, 20:26   #21
duke1
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The plastic spacer just pushes in once the tensioner is in place, there was no need to take it all off again
hi yes i figured that out in the end!well i been busy between rain storms as im working on our driveway but so far i have stripped out the old pcv and changed all the pipework that needed replacement and cleaned up the rest and have it all ready to go back together but am awaiting the inlet manifold gasket to come as first was wrong one despite giving the supplier the actual part number from the original,strange as everything else was right in the kit.
question i have read of folks removing the little oil trap on the air pipe you know the one that has idle control and a vac pipe that gets blocked i call it a flametrap on old cars but how does getting rid affect the running?
incidently i did the pcv without removing the injectors or rail just unbolted and set aside with all connections intact.
and only slightly ****ey bit was again mr bloody 10 thumbs had obviously had a go at doing the pcv and rounded of several bolts one being that awkward one that bolts to the bottom of the manifold and holds the dipstick in place,i eventually resorted to a little dremmel work and cut the damn head off and have nice new stainless bolts to go back in.
the missus is giving extreme earache over the cost of this much needed work i fear she will never understand the need and just thinks i spend willy nilly despite my best efforts to find best prices for the parts,cant win no car and she moans,get car that needs fixing and she moans!!!!pics later of the progress,peace all
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Old Sep 3rd, 2020, 15:08   #22
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Default radiators and sods law,guinea pig

hi all well sods law strikes again!i replaced the obviously leaking heater matrix and all the hoses and clamps but at the time the rad though old had zero visible leaks,well this morning after walking me dogs i came back and noticed a puddle under the car,bloody radiator has now decided to spring a leak! this bloody car has cost a small fortune already for which i have recieved severe earbashings on every damn expenditure.
to be fare we are on a very limited income and so any extra expense is a problem as something else doesnt get paid.
so with a budget at minimum i debated a used rad from the local breakers but they want £40 and zero guarantee so i looked at the cheapest new unit on ebay which just happens to be the same supplier as the heater matrix i recently replaced and yes before anyone pipes up with you must use oem/oe parts i simply do not have funds for the extra cost and besides which this is a uk company and both the matrix and rad come with a 5 year guarantee,4 years longer than our local volvo dealer offers and at a lot less cost.
so unwitting guinea pig for the cooling system supplied by coolpartsuk this is the rad
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RADIATOR-...72.m2749.l2649
i just hope and pray this is the last big expense atleast till i get the car through the mot due imminently ,my luck sucks!
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Old Sep 4th, 2020, 18:43   #23
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Default rad done!

hi all well the rad came today very fast service indeed dpd courier and very nicely packed,the make is unknown to me banco and made in india.
the rad comes with all the mountings and fastenings included which was great as 2/3rds of the originals just snapped as soon as any force is applied.
it fitted nicely and car has been run up to temp and fan cut in and out again perfect,i let it cool a while and then topped the coolant up to the max mark and shall go for a nice long burn around tomorrow .
i did notice the rad for the ac is very rusty but also it has bowed so i guess its toast?ive no idea on ac its first car ever for me that has it.
the company i got the heater matrix and rad from do the ac rad as well but im not sure if the interior one is any good either,can one see the interior one without taking half the car apart?any advice would be handy,pics later of my work,peace
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Old Sep 5th, 2020, 11:24   #24
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Default Air Conditioning

The two "radiators" in an A/C system are the condenser at the front and the evaporator inside the cabin.

It is best to get a specialist to test the system before deciding on what to do.

My V70 always had good working A/C and then suddenly decided to stop. I had a lot of well meaning advice from colleagues but a test by a local mobile A/C specialist revealed that the system was fully charged but blocked. Decided to tackle the repair myself so had the specialist just extract the refrigerant.

Replaced the orifice tube and the dryer (not a job I would want to do again) and then had the system checked for leaks before being recharged with correct amount of refrigerant and PAG oil. Total cost was around £200 all in (parts I bought plus specialist's labour and vacuuming out gas etc.) but now have nice cold A/C.

If there had been a leak in the evaporator then I would probably not have bothered getting it fixed as it is tucked up out of sight and requires complete dismantling of the dash. Not something I am really able to tackle these days so would have been around £400 -£500 for a specialist to do.
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Old Sep 9th, 2020, 22:16   #25
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The two "radiators" in an A/C system are the condenser at the front and the evaporator inside the cabin.

It is best to get a specialist to test the system before deciding on what to do.

My V70 always had good working A/C and then suddenly decided to stop. I had a lot of well meaning advice from colleagues but a test by a local mobile A/C specialist revealed that the system was fully charged but blocked. Decided to tackle the repair myself so had the specialist just extract the refrigerant.

Replaced the orifice tube and the dryer (not a job I would want to do again) and then had the system checked for leaks before being recharged with correct amount of refrigerant and PAG oil. Total cost was around £200 all in (parts I bought plus specialist's labour and vacuuming out gas etc.) but now have nice cold A/C.

If there had been a leak in the evaporator then I would probably not have bothered getting it fixed as it is tucked up out of sight and requires complete dismantling of the dash. Not something I am really able to tackle these days so would have been around £400 -£500 for a specialist to do.
cheers for explaining i guess i shall have to save my pennies for a while but i have the mot tomorrow afternoon and just hoping and praying it passes without a drama or worse more expense im in the doghouse as it is! but did a good long drive and other than an abs light dimly lighting up not proper illuminated which if i turn the car off and restart goes out,
im guessing i need to solder the abs module i just hope it behaves long enough to pass then i shall sort it at leisure,but i can honestly say i would not want to swap for the peugeot 406 in a million years the volvo is much nicer to work on just a bit expensive as we are playing catchup with its lax servicing,try explaining that too my missus!peace
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Old Sep 10th, 2020, 13:43   #26
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cheers for explaining i guess i shall have to save my pennies for a while but i have the mot tomorrow afternoon
Me too. Our Golf has no A/C but the MOT is looming so will get that out of the way first.

Will get the A/C tested at some time to see where the leak is and then decide on what I can do without in order to fund the repair - certainly not booking a holiday this year and may consider eating less (weigh too much anyway) but cannot cut down on cat food otherwise I will be seriously in trouble (x3)!
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Old Sep 10th, 2020, 20:25   #27
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Me too. Our Golf has no A/C but the MOT is looming so will get that out of the way first.

Will get the A/C tested at some time to see where the leak is and then decide on what I can do without in order to fund the repair - certainly not booking a holiday this year and may consider eating less (weigh too much anyway) but cannot cut down on cat food otherwise I will be seriously in trouble (x3)!
hi yes i have 2 dogs one bigger than me and capable of eating me no problem so dogfood is first on the shopping list!well happy to say the car passed the mot today and only a single advisory for the corrosion on the nsr wheelarch which i am going to replace very soon and will cut out as much as needed to remove all trace of the rust luckily i am a skilled welder and panel maker and the friend i sold my mig to says i can use it so by next mot i hope i shall have done the lot including the horrid rotten back bumper brackets and mountings for a pass and no notes!
couldnt get the wheels balanced though as the place was too busy but it slows me down a bit which is good as wheel wobble hits at 70mph and is a speed limiter! i think all that revving up they did for the mot done it good it went like a rocket on the way home! as a pass present ive ordered the old girl a new set of ignition leads as she on the original set going by the code date long lasting but one is breaking down and i suspect is causing a misfire,stay healthy and feed the cats,,,,peace
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Old Sep 14th, 2020, 19:11   #28
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Default ignition leads fitted

hi all well as reward for passing the mot today i fitted a new set of lucas ignition leads and then took the car for a good long run and she seems happier for them,the set i took of had been exposed to lots of engine oil and code date from 2003 so well needed though the car still has a misfire when pulling away and sometimes when changing gear it hesitates a little,then goes off like a rocket.
i have not yet changed the fuel filter and the one fitted looks ancient so maybe that will fix the misfire but i doubt it,properly gapped ngk plugs,new bosch dizzy cap and rotor arm,and now new leads am i missing something and do coils on these cause misfire?any advice welcome,peace
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Old Sep 15th, 2020, 12:41   #29
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Default Hesitation on acceleration

As you say you appear to have a misfire when changing gear or accelerating and have renewed the ignition then I wonder if it is a fueling problem.

The hesitation you describe seems to be when there is a demand for more fuel (need a greater flow when accelerating or pressing the pedal after changing gear) so maybe a filter change will help.

I have no running problem with my V70 but looking under there last week, couldn't believe how rusty and dirty the fuel filter was so don't know when it was last changed, if at all. Have one on order and will be changing that when I do the engine oil and filter.

Many years ago I had a running problem with an old Mk2 Jag. After changing the plugs it started and ran fine. This continued for many weeks with stalling and then changing the plugs appearing to solve the problem - until the next time. It turned out to be a partially blocked fuel filter which slowed down the fuel flow. While I was changing the plugs the fuel blockage moved and restored the fuel flow until it gradually moved back and blocked the filter again.
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Old Sep 15th, 2020, 19:29   #30
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As you say you appear to have a misfire when changing gear or accelerating and have renewed the ignition then I wonder if it is a fueling problem.

The hesitation you describe seems to be when there is a demand for more fuel (need a greater flow when accelerating or pressing the pedal after changing gear) so maybe a filter change will help.

I have no running problem with my V70 but looking under there last week, couldn't believe how rusty and dirty the fuel filter was so don't know when it was last changed, if at all. Have one on order and will be changing that when I do the engine oil and filter.

Many years ago I had a running problem with an old Mk2 Jag. After changing the plugs it started and ran fine. This continued for many weeks with stalling and then changing the plugs appearing to solve the problem - until the next time. It turned out to be a partially blocked fuel filter which slowed down the fuel flow. While I was changing the plugs the fuel blockage moved and restored the fuel flow until it gradually moved back and blocked the filter again.
hi i have ordered a fuel filter had to go main dealer as our local car shop could not find correct one anywhere for some odd reason idk but its on the list for next payday,i did take a few pics today of the old banger some of the engine all pretty looking and no longer gushing oil out of every orifice!
all the crappy rusty fasteners and clamps are new stainless steel.
also decided as she now has 12 months mot i woul brave removing the plastic sill cover from the n/s/ and expose the sill for inspection and as suspected yes there is the start of systemic rust so i shall be cutting out and welding thankfully the rust goes no further into the cars structure.
can anyone tell me which is the paint code on the pictured labels?
heres a bunch of pics,cheers for looking in,peace
Attached Images
File Type: jpg car code 001.JPG (135.8 KB, 32 views)
File Type: jpg car code 002.JPG (129.4 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg car code 003.JPG (132.9 KB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg car code 005.JPG (300.5 KB, 31 views)
File Type: jpg car code 006.JPG (214.7 KB, 31 views)
File Type: jpg car code 009.JPG (243.7 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg volvo body work 001.JPG (237.9 KB, 32 views)
File Type: jpg volvo body work 002.JPG (247.1 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg volvo body work 003.JPG (278.9 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg volvo body work 007.JPG (279.7 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg volvo body work 008.JPG (293.1 KB, 35 views)
File Type: jpg volvo body work 009.JPG (275.9 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg volvo body work 010.JPG (262.8 KB, 36 views)
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