1800: 1962 'Jensen' P1800 Electronic ignition options

[peter clark]

Hello Fellow Members.

I recently bought a 1962 P1800 - Chassis No. 4088, and am looking a upgrading to electronic ignition.
However, it appears very difficult to find EI info for the '2-piece' points distributor. Even Bookhouse don't seem to list anything - they ask for the number on the distributor, but all mine has is a blue plate with Bosch and a completely different number (VJU 4 BL 33) to what Brookhouse reckons it should be - should start '0231', but my dizzy does not have any other numbers on it.

What are my options? Will I have to replace the whole distributor, or is there in fact a kit out there somewhere?

Thanks, Peter

[Bracpan]

The 123 distributor ?

[142 Guy]

The VJU4 BL33 distributor was used up to around 1968. However, it looks like there might have been more than one version.

Go to the Skandix website

https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-part...stributor/762/

and click on the ignition points that look like the ignition points in your distributor. When the new webpage comes up, Skandix conveniently lists 'alternatives' at the bottom of the page which will let you know whether there is an electronic module available to replace your points. One of the versions does not have any replacements.

If you search using your car and click on electrical / ignition

https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-part...-ignition/758/

you should be able to find distributors that apply to your car and find an alternate search for modules. If you want to pursue the 123 replacement distributor find the model # from the Skandix page and email Skandix or 123 directly to confirm that it is a direct replacement for your distributor.

A lot of the uncertainty may be due to what sort of vacuum regulator your particular distributor was equipped with. The 123 distributor will likely physically fit on your B18 just fine; but, the ignition map stored into the distributor may not match the characteristics of your original distributor. 123 and maybe Skandix should be able to confirm the suitability of a pre mapped distributor. If they don't have a mapped distributor, then you can probably use the programable distributor if you are up for the task of figuring out your existing distributor characteristics and programming them in to the new distributor (definitely not plug and play). Or, some other owner may have already done it for you!

If your distributor accepts one of the modules, then its bolt it in and check the static timing and go!

Something to be aware of when using a replacement module in. If your distributor is original the shaft bushings and the advance mechanism may have significant wear and replacing the points with a module is not going to fix that. I have a 1971 142 E and I retrofitted the distributor with a Pertronix module. Using a timing light, I found that the ignition timing was fairly stable up to about 2500 RPM and went to hell above that RPM with the timing bouncing around quite a bit. I ended up eliminating the distributor completely (choosing the option of bringing a thermonuclear warhead to a fist fight!). If you have access to a automotive electrical specialist who does vintage work they should be able to test your distributor and advise whether the distributor is good or needs rebuilding. Or, you weight the balance of costs and probabilities and opt for the 123 replacement (if they have a suitable replacement).

[classicswede]

Your distributor should be the type with the hex connection for the vacuum advance.

Why do you want to change to electronic?

[Derek UK]

Type VJU 43L 33 = Bosch number 0 231 112 043 = Volvo # 238731

[peter clark]

Thanks Gents,

Perfect, that gives me some options.

I am considering changing to EI because I am 80, the 2 piece points were very fiddly for me to replace and set up.

Thank you, Pete

[fishyboy]

Hi Peter
My name is Phil and I am a 1800S and Amazon owners and live near Andover.
If I can help you in any way please feel free to contact me.
Phil

[Derek UK]

Peter, as an option you can always pull the distributor and do the points on the bench. If you leave the adjustment clamp tight and just remove the screw that attaches it to the block you can remove and refit without changing the timing.
Any other cleaning and servicing can be done at the same time much more easily.

[peter clark]

Thanks Phil, & Derek,

Phil,
That is very kind thank you, I will have to work out how to send you a PM' - the forum is somewhat confusing to me still, but I expect I shall eventually get the hang of it...