Volvo V50 - need help changing Crankshaft Pulley

[Lion Heart]

Hi guys

I have a 2008 V50 2.0 D Automatic...

Having a aux belt squeaking issue. The crankshaft pulley has visible 'wobble'. I removed the aux belt and started the car and the wobble remained identical.

I assume that the crankshaft is not bent thus causing the wobble because the engine would be screwed and unlikely to run.

So I'm guessing more likely the rubber has warped or perished in the crankshaft pulley and has thrown it out of balance. Maybe due to oil contamination, age, or just bad luck.

So I'm looking at replacing the camshaft pulley (they are quite cheap for decent brand ones like Febi). But have some questions and concerns...


1) Do you need a cambelt tool to lock the engine position BEFORE you are able to remove the crankshaft pulley, or can I just take it straight off?

2) I have air tools! So should be ok removing the bolt (if engine position can be unlocked when removing, see 1 above)

3) I'm concerned about tightening it back up to spec (50nm). I cannot get 50nm with an air wrench (I have torsion bars but lowest is 110nm!) so would need to do by hand - but worried it will just spin and wondering how on earth to lock it in place to allow tightening (hence question 1 above).


All help much appreciated!!!

[Bloders2]

just take it off and [put the new one on
if you want to torque the new fasteners put the car in high gear, with wheel removed put a screwdriver in teh brake disc to wedge against the caliper and tighten them up using a torue wrench

[Lion Heart]

Hey Bloders2

Thanks for the info. Sound good - but I have an auto not manual so cannot select a high gear.

Will D do the job??? Why a high gear BTW?

[Bloders2]

put it in park. Drive will just allow it to turn
apply the torque gently so not to cause issue.
is it four small bolts or one big one? if smaller ones, be easy. If big one, id just tighten it up with an air gun with thread lock on it and leave alone

Didnt answer before, but if your just remeoving crank pulley, no need to worry about timing - thats the next layer "in" to the engine.

[Lion Heart]

Thanks Boders2

A couple of things... It's in P now and that makes one front wheel turn one way and one the other way when you manually spin a wheel, or turn the crankshaft pulley. It does not actually 'lock' anything. I guess it would on the floor as wheels in opposite directions = going nowhere. But I have it o a two post lift so wheels suspended in mid air.

It's the big bolt in the middle I need.

I did think to air gun it back on, but fatory spec is only 50nm so an air gun would overtighten for sure.

So if Park allows it to spin, and Drive allows it to spin what would be the best option?

[Bloders2]

i assume its 50nm plus an angle? as it doesnt seem very tight otherwise
youll have to get someone put their foot on the brake then

personally, id air gun it back on.

[canis]

I wouldn't trust 'P' to hold the engine still. It's only a tiny pin, and they can break. I've known cars that will roll away in Park because owners have been relying on it instead of using the handbrake.

And you may find you need to overcome far more than 50Nm. It's probably been there for years in heat, cold, wind, rain. And if you're really unlucky, someone might have used an air gun to fasten it. :-)

I use a piece of angle iron:


The bolts in the pulley aren't quite long enough, they only reach in a couple of threads which isn't enough to bear the torque involved. But I had some longer ones available.

With the iron attached to the pulley, the engine can rotate until the iron meets a piece of bodywork, then you can give it some welly. In my case, I needed a 3/4" (not 3/8") drive socket on a long bar and then the jack handle on the bar until I got leverage of about 4'. I guess the previous owner used an air-gun.

Are you sure you've even got a socket big enough for the nut? I think it was 38mm, if I remember right - way out of the range of the average socket set.

[Lion Heart]

Hey Canis

Thanks for the info. That's got me worried.

Firstly, how did you attach that bar??? The pulley has no holes in it at all. Solid circle. The only hole is the one in the middle for the bolt.

That bolt is 22mm by the way. Is you car a V50, with the 2.0 D engine?

If I put it in D (or any other gear for that matter) does locking the wheel in place (screwdriver in brake vent against caliper for example) stop the crank from turning???

It would have been a Volvo main dealer that put it on as it's full Volvo history from new and one owner before me. They would have removed and refitted it to do the cambelt 3 years ago. So HOPEFULLY not overtightened with an air gun (but you never know!)

Looking at the angle iron you made up to lock it in place, there's no way I can think that this would attach to my pulley as it's solid with no holes. Did I miss something??

[Lion Heart]

My pulley looks like this one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Belt-Pulle...25.m3641.l6368

Note no holes at all apart from the centre bolt hole.

[cheshired5]

Volvo's official method involves starter motor removal and uses a flywheel locking tool then a flywheel alignment tool and camshaft locking pin.

The 50Nm on the crankshaft pulley is only for turning the engine afterwards to align timing marks.

The final torquing appears to be 70Nm + 60° so considerably more than 50Nm.

I say appears to be because Vida states something odd which may be a typo.

The exact wording on Vida is....
Stage 1 70Nm
Stage 2 60 & #176

What #176 means is anybody's guess.