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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars

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940 chips. What's out there ?

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Old Jul 4th, 2020, 15:44   #41
Laird Scooby
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Originally Posted by classicswede View Post
https://fuelinjectorclinic.com/faqs/


It is all fairly well known info but well worth you reading to bring yourself back upto date. LH2.4 is capable of driving either high or low z injectors bearing in mind non turbo versions came with high z anyway and only turbo engines had low z
None of that is what i'm referring to though.
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Old Jul 5th, 2020, 23:56   #42
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In order to get 270ish with a 16t you will need to be pushing at least 20psi and have supporting upgrades, no problem for a redblock but the standard 25.1 deg of ignition timing at 4000rpm will be.
So called "off the shelf" chipsets can be hit and miss therefore I would only go with the ones that will custom make them. Dirk from Sweden [Stoni's world] make some of the best.
If you want the ultimate tune without going stand alone wire nightmare, get a moates ostrich and a chippable EZK and go to town on a dyno.
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Old Jul 6th, 2020, 12:00   #43
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In order to get 270ish with a 16t you will need to be pushing at least 20psi and have supporting upgrades, no problem for a redblock but the standard 25.1 deg of ignition timing at 4000rpm will be.
So called "off the shelf" chipsets can be hit and miss therefore I would only go with the ones that will custom make them. Dirk from Sweden [Stoni's world] make some of the best.
If you want the ultimate tune without going stand alone wire nightmare, get a moates ostrich and a chippable EZK and go to town on a dyno.
Totally agree with the above. Going slightly off-topic, the only thing I'd add is you will also need to really consider looking into managing the heat under the bonnet, 20psi on the 13c, 16t, 19t creates a ton of heat...
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Old Jul 6th, 2020, 14:20   #44
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Totally agree with the above. Going slightly off-topic, the only thing I'd add is you will also need to really consider looking into managing the heat under the bonnet, 20psi on the 13c, 16t, 19t creates a ton of heat...
Thankyou. Mannageing the heat by installing an oil cooler ? Is the standard coolant radiator up to the job.
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Old Jul 6th, 2020, 14:48   #45
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Standard rad should be fine, I'd consider creating some sort of heatshield to protect your brake lines and brake master cylinder, you also want to protect the expansion tank (or relocate it). Wrap the exhaust.
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Old Jul 6th, 2020, 16:27   #46
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Standard rad should be fine, I'd consider creating some sort of heatshield to protect your brake lines and brake master cylinder, you also want to protect the expansion tank (or relocate it). Wrap the exhaust.
I shall deffo wrap it. You think and oil cooler is needed then or not ?
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Old Jul 6th, 2020, 18:58   #47
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The 940 has a heat exchanger for oil cooling/warm up built into the housing the oil filter is attached to.
Early turbos like my '88 740 had an air to air cooler mounted to one side of the rad.
Can't say for sure which was the better or whether both would give overall improved cooling, but it does not seem to be something that comes up when staying in the 200s.
Interesting idea if you could find a sandwich plate that fits and could run a front mounted cooler.
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Old Jul 6th, 2020, 22:20   #48
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Interesting idea if you could find a sandwich plate that fits and could run a front mounted cooler.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16-Row-AN...t/153655300969

Complete kit there, check the diameter of the sandwich plate to match the filter - the thread size is correct though.

The 940 has as you say, an oil-water oil cooler mounted between the filter and engine block, earlier 740s had the sandwich plate and oil-air cooler.

I've used oil-water coolers for ATF and oil-air and the oil-air keep cooler for longer. I'm sure the same would apply to engine oil although any cooling would be beneficial.
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