D5 time

[andyv40turbo]

A bit of work completed so far

• new cam/aux belts and tensioners at a volvo specialist in Norwich (RR Motors) who seemed really knowledgeable and reasonably priced.
• wheels aligned
• rubber floor mats
• new headlight bulbs and cleaned the lenses
• Removable tow bar fitted (for tow bar bike rack)
• replaced boot struts (but they where second hand and still dont seem strong enough to open the boot...)

To do:

• change all the fluids, oil first and then probably gear box next
• Fit a spoiler
• New brake pads and discs
• Change the wheels if I can find some of the nice 5 spoke ones
• lowering springs or coil overs
• window tints

So far really enjoying the car. Seems plenty powerful enough for me but maybe a map further down the line.

[marc]

Certainly a clean looking example you have there.

As for brakes, I can recommend Black Diamond drilled and grooved discs up front with EBC red stuff pads, and Black Diamond grooved on the rear with EBC green stuff pads. I've been using this setup for a few years now and it's been spot on.

Lowering, I just went for H&R springs with a 25mm drop, you can get these for the V50.

Definitely get a remap, our D5's have untapped potential...even with the Polestar tune that I've got, and that's a mild tune.

[Yobbo]

Originally Posted by andyv40turbo

A bit of work completed so far

• new cam/aux belts and tensioners at a volvo specialist in Norwich (RR Motors) who seemed really knowledgeable and reasonably priced.
• wheels aligned
• rubber floor mats
• new headlight bulbs and cleaned the lenses
• Removable tow bar fitted (for tow bar bike rack)
• replaced boot struts (but they where second hand and still dont seem strong enough to open the boot...)

To do:

• change all the fluids, oil first and then probably gear box next
• Fit a spoiler
• New brake pads and discs
• Change the wheels if I can find some of the nice 5 spoke ones
• lowering springs or coil overs
• window tints

So far really enjoying the car. Seems plenty powerful enough for me but maybe a map further down the line.

I discovered yesterday that both of my aux and serpentine belt tensioners were not replaced when the timing belt was done - nor was I advised by the local Volvo Indy who did the work. Especially annoying as I'd mentioned about this as it's well known that an aux/serpentine belt failure on the D5 is a potential wrecked engine if it gets sucked into the timing belt area.
My serpentine belt that connects the alternator was the original Volvo one and despite having no cracks, seems a little slack so it looks like I'm going to have to source these tensioners and belts, possibly even the alternator freewheel pulley as well.
Thankfully the former looks a pretty easy job but the alternator pulley will require a special tool...

Meanwhile, this kit appears to be the right one for my car's engine (D5244T13)
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/skf/7614817

[andyv40turbo]

They told me all aux belts where done so I hope that includes the belt you mentioned yobbo. Thanks for the heads up

[domhart10]

nice mtbike there, what make is that?

Car looks great.

[Yobbo]

Originally Posted by andyv40turbo

They told me all aux belts where done so I hope that includes the belt you mentioned yobbo. Thanks for the heads up

Well if they mentioned aux belts as in plural then that is good.
However they should have replaced the two tensioners for them and if not, at the very least swapped out the idler pulleys for them.

A few days ago I heard some belt chirp so decided to have a good nosey around, quite simple to inspect; wheel off, arch liner off - they're right there.
As my T-belt was done last Feb/March I was expecting to see some fairly shiny tensioners but they did indeed look old with the typical aluminium pitting.
Also the idler roller for the lower tensioner was the culprit for the noise - a bit of WD40 sprayed into the back of it soon quietened things down.
I also noticed a groove had cut into the surface of the pulley just off centre and that there was quite a lot of deflection on idle which may indicate the spring was tired.
In any case it wouldn't be prudent to replace just the idlers alone so I'll get new tensioners and belts for piece of mind, along with the freewheeling alternator pulley though as it requires YAST (yet another specialist tool...)
I've seen that INA sell the full kit on Autodoc (one is more expensive and the only parts that differ are the alternator pulley with one being more expensive as a standalone part - I'm looking into that).
The alt pulley is an important component to consider because if it seizes then the belt that runs on it could burn out and snap and of course your alternator will cease to function, the there's potential timing belt drama...
I'm not intending to scare monger here!

Another thing, the nomenclature for the belts was annoyingly quite unclear to me at first, so yes there two aux belts and they are of differing lengths.
The lower belt which connects from crankshaft pulley to front aircon compressor pulley is 847/848mm in length according to whichever manufacturer you're looking at.
The upper belt which connects from the alternator pulley to the aircon compressor rear pulley is 890/891mm in length - I've seen this referred to as the 'serpentine' belt.

[andyv40turbo]

Originally Posted by domhart10

nice mtbike there, what make is that?

Car looks great.

That is a Vitus Sommet (enduro Bike) One of the main reasons I got the V50 is to use as an activity wagon.With Norfolk being a bit flat... The bike is due an upgrade soon probably to a YT Capra.

Originally Posted by Yobbo

Well if they mentioned aux belts as in plural then that is good.
However they should have replaced the two tensioners for them and if not, at the very least swapped out the idler pulleys for them.

A few days ago I heard some belt chirp so decided to have a good nosey around, quite simple to inspect; wheel off, arch liner off - they're right there.
As my T-belt was done last Feb/March I was expecting to see some fairly shiny tensioners but they did indeed look old with the typical aluminium pitting.
Also the idler roller for the lower tensioner was the culprit for the noise - a bit of WD40 sprayed into the back of it soon quietened things down.
I also noticed a groove had cut into the surface of the pulley just off centre and that there was quite a lot of deflection on idle which may indicate the spring was tired.
In any case it wouldn't be prudent to replace just the idlers alone so I'll get new tensioners and belts for piece of mind, along with the freewheeling alternator pulley though as it requires YAST (yet another specialist tool...)
I've seen that INA sell the full kit on Autodoc (one is more expensive and the only parts that differ are the alternator pulley with one being more expensive as a standalone part - I'm looking into that).
The alt pulley is an important component to consider because if it seizes then the belt that runs on it could burn out and snap and of course your alternator will cease to function, the there's potential timing belt drama...
I'm not intending to scare monger here!

Another thing, the nomenclature for the belts was annoyingly quite unclear to me at first, so yes there two aux belts and they are of differing lengths.
The lower belt which connects from crankshaft pulley to front aircon compressor pulley is 847/848mm in length according to whichever manufacturer you're looking at.
The upper belt which connects from the alternator pulley to the aircon compressor rear pulley is 890/891mm in length - I've seen this referred to as the 'serpentine' belt.

Yeah they said both belts. and this is defiantly scare mongering I will check to confirm. Thought I had done so well staying on top of maintenance...

[andyv40turbo]

Originally Posted by marc

Certainly a clean looking example you have there.

As for brakes, I can recommend Black Diamond drilled and grooved discs up front with EBC red stuff pads, and Black Diamond grooved on the rear with EBC green stuff pads. I've been using this setup for a few years now and it's been spot on.

Lowering, I just went for H&R springs with a 25mm drop, you can get these for the V50.

Definitely get a remap, our D5's have untapped potential...even with the Polestar tune that I've got, and that's a mild tune.

I've noticed there is a few different brake size so will have to measure up before I order. Thanks for the recommendation though.

I think I would change the dampeners at same time as springs as ten years of work probably means they could do with a change. Using spring clamps is also terrifying so may look for coilovers. 25 mm is about right though.

Remap wise, I understand Shark are no longer about. So maybe Celtic I think it is? Do Volvo garages actually have the polestar tunes (which I imagine are a mid way between standard and a tuner remap such as shark?)

[andyv40turbo]

Also fitted LEDs to interior done front/ middle and boot. Bought a "V50" specific set which was a waste as it had the wrong types for the footwells. T10 it appears and they sent the "festoon"? Type for this. Still shouldn't be hard to source and the main ones look great. I did break one of the middle light black screw in things (delicate tabs) as I didn't realise they just push in which is different from the small modification you need to do to the front lights. But managed to get it connected up.

[marc]

Originally Posted by andyv40turbo

I've noticed there is a few different brake size so will have to measure up before I order. Thanks for the recommendation though.

I think I would change the dampeners at same time as springs as ten years of work probably means they could do with a change. Using spring clamps is also terrifying so may look for coilovers. 25 mm is about right though.

Remap wise, I understand Shark are no longer about. So maybe Celtic I think it is? Do Volvo garages actually have the polestar tunes (which I imagine are a mid way between standard and a tuner remap such as shark?)

I’ve heard good things about Celtic, and also Rica, it might be worth searching the forums in general to see what people have to say. As for Polestar, yup, mine was done at my local dealer many years ago (still under warranty at the time), I’ve not seen any pricing lately, but back then it was £800!! Probably vastly overpriced, but at the time I didn’t mind.