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1961 Volvo PV544 in HollandViews : 83287 Replies : 750Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Oct 6th, 2018, 16:17 | #441 |
marches on his stomach
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Yesterday I applied two layers of the tougher anti-scratch clear coat on top of the body.
I was too tired - ended up leaving drips all over the place. Bit of a disaster. Today I spent most of my time correcting yesterday's **** ups... ...but... ...finally there is matt clear coat on the body! I'm a happy bunny today. (Yesterday less so) It is exactly the effect I was trying to get. Yesterday with all the drips it just looked dreadful - today it looks delightfully dreadful! There is a feeling of quality to it. The dull crappy metal finish shows all the character of this car - it makes it look really old - nice and old. Once I get the other parts in matt clear coat too and the car assembled I have high hopes (I realise this isn't a popular finish but I think it will be just what this doctor ordered)
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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! |
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Oct 8th, 2018, 16:53 | #442 |
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And so it goes on =>
Indian summers rule!
The paint - oh the paint! Remember the grotty joints in the front panel that were filled with bitumen goo and crap? ^^^example from three pages back^^^ Well today I fired up the sand blasting cabinet and cleaned out those hard to reach creases {for those interested I can link to the construction of the cabinet and the dust extraction system - it turned out to be a fairly huge and cheap to build thing as I had free wood - it is only limited by my compressor rated at 350 L/m and the length of my arms} Note:- The reason why I didn't go straight for the sand blasting option is mainly because the bitumastic goo is too soft for the speedblast media I use. The speedblast will just bounce off or even worse just get stuck in it: Using larger / heavier grained media and higher pressures would probably have removed the bitumen but at a cost of warping and generally nadgering the sheet metal. The tedious process of paint stripper - celly thinner - paint stripper - hacking - wiping - swearing - leaving to one side for ages - soaking in thinner again - wiping - soaking in thinner again - wiping and hacking - seemed to be necessary... ...still tis now done. (If you remember this one of the first jobs I started way back when I still thinking about saving the red paint) Unfortunately things don't ever seem to happen at the same stages / rates => ^^^Example of where the most recently worked on things happen to be^^^ The bonnet is ready for the final coating of matt clear coat. The front has now been treated to Eastwood rust encapsulator which needs to be sanded back and then sprayed in epoxy The heat shields are at a similar stage to the front - but will only be coated in epoxy and a black pantsercoating (I want to see how the pantsercoating holds up on its own with out additional car paint which will be applied as per the body on the front) The inner wings / sides of the engine bay have been treated to rust encapsulator - sanded back - and are now in epoxy - waiting for pantsercoating tomorrow with any luck (these will of course be finished in the Fawn Brown to match all of the inside parts of the car)
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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! |
Oct 9th, 2018, 17:49 | #443 |
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Dashboard
Got side tracked with something else: I decided to crack on and get the dashboard painted ASAP so I can then move on seamlessly to the wiring loom...
...the dash is in OK condition. The really expensive pad is still intact so I'm painting around it - not even contemplating trying to remove it. (As it turns out that's exactly what has happened before - when it was painted red - I found the old Fawn Brown underneath in parts) The top of the radio hole has been made a bit bigger which is a shame but only by a few mm so it isn't worth repairing (in my opinion) The inner side of the ash tray panel has a bit of rust but otherwise the rest is good Tested with paint stripper to see how far I could get before breaking out sander I thought I had sanded it really well... ...until I got the etch primer on => I missed a couple of bits in the edges of the creases - that'll be something to attack another day.
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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! |
Oct 10th, 2018, 09:53 | #444 |
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I didn't think I'd still be finding modifications...
...at this stage in the game but I found another "upgrade"
On the interweb the glove boxes look like this => (Picture found on the VP autoparts website) They seem to be made from hardboard. Mine is the same shape but made out of metal. A real high school welding project (!) They've seam welded it so it is a bit bobbly on the inside - still - after a bit of paint it'll be going back in (someone loved the car enough before me to make it so it is staying put) They put sound deadening all over it (of course) but it came off surprisingly easily with the multi-tool and scraper => Before I bought that multi-tool I thought it was just a cynical way to peddle yet more expensive accessories for power tools. It has, however, proved to be a valuable addition to the workshop (much to my surprise). The accessories are indeed very very expensive - but - I have found a place that sells some of the bits at a reasonable price so I can soften the blow. ####### In other news the quarter light hardware mounted on the door window insert was put in place with aluminium pop rivets Does any one know if the correct solid / hollow rivets are made from steel or if they're also aluminium?
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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! |
Oct 10th, 2018, 12:13 | #445 |
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Stainless steel Pop rivets are available along with steel and alloy.
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Oct 10th, 2018, 12:14 | #446 |
arcturus
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life's too short to drink bad wine Last edited by arcturus; Oct 10th, 2018 at 12:23. |
Oct 10th, 2018, 17:42 | #447 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
(Always careful about dissimilar metal corrosion but in this case to be fair there was no evidence that it had set in on the PV window frames unlike my series 2a Land Rover)
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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! |
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Oct 13th, 2018, 10:14 | #448 |
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OK another bit of advice needed
I'm getting alarmingly close to putting wings on cars (!)
Well I say alarmingly close as in I reckon I could start thinking about trial fitting the rear wings on the PV. I'm going to use the "silly" original system of sticking vinyl between the body and the wings. This is obviously (I say obviously now as we all now know about vinyl and vinyl roofs on cars because of the 1970s) a bad idea because it traps water... ...to combat water ingress between the body panel joints I intend to use some sort of sealant. I'm not sure which So I was wondering what others have done I was thinking along the lines of Permatex black silicone => https://www.permatex.com/products/ad...esive-sealant/ But I'm a bit worried about getting silicone anywhere near paint - can cause problems in the future with repainting EDIT:- after a bit more reading on the interweb it seems I might been a victim of anti-silicone-ism => https://www.eshine.ca/blogs/articles...-is-silicone-1 May be silicone on paint isn't such a problem after all (?) Still I would like to know more about what others have done to their vinyl linings
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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! Last edited by Army; Oct 13th, 2018 at 11:20. Reason: Found more info |
Oct 14th, 2018, 16:24 | #449 |
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Bump for the vinyl water proofing!
As the title says - anyone else come up with a water proofing solution for the vinyl joints between body panels on a PV?
###### Seeing as I'm here there's time to show yet more bitumen removal (as if there wasn't enough of it in this thread) Even the flippin' fuel tank has been smeared all over in the stuff In other news the amazing warm weather has not only resulted in a BBQ yesterday in the middle of October but lots of painting has been done - I might just make it - but probably won't have time to get the front wings finished - still the body just needs a few corrections and then it is ready for most of the assembly. I've got a load of silent coat on order (so it must mean it is almost ready)
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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! |
Oct 14th, 2018, 17:13 | #450 |
arcturus
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Personally I have never had any problems with the vinyl joint strip and water ingress. Of course if you are not painting your car you don't have the added protection of multi coats of paint between the panel joints. You might try Vaseline on the panel edges,a fairly thick smear on each panel before fitting the vinyl strip. Any excess should squeeze out. An added bonus is that it would help to keep the vinyl supple. But what do I know!
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