900 Cars: 940 TDic pulley bolt siezed

[apex]

Has any member had a problem removing seized bolts on the crank pulley.?
I have had my 940 TDi returned by the volvo main agent in (Northampton) as they are unable to remove the pulley bolt, to replace the timing belt and tensioner.
The belt has only covered 49K although overdue on time (ie 8 years).
I would welcome any of the more experienced members input.

merry christmas to everyone

[green van man]

Seems like they didn't want the job.
Not familiar with your car or its layout but in general crank pulley bolts are always tight. If you cannot get a rattle gun in there to crack them off then it's handbrake on hard into 4th gear and a big lever on the breaker bar and socket. If nessesary have a mate sit in the car with foot on brake.

I have known it take a 5 foot tube on the breaker bar to move them, but move they did. Once cracked off normal hand tools are sufficient.
If you think threadlock may of been used heat from a hot air gun can help.

Paul.

[jor]

There are 4 small Allen key bolts and the large central 36mm bolt for which volvo tool 5187 is required, though smart people have fabricated their own. A long torque wrench is useful, which will probably be 3/4" so a reducer will be needed for the socket. If you are planning to do it yourself there is also the dial gauge and extension and of course the d24 manual. I cannot recall whether there are any d24 owners in Liverpool, but there is at least one (ex) in Manchester (doingitsideways), who might be able to help. As you mention the midlands there is an owner in Walsall who I'm pretty sure does his own servicing, should you venture further south there is Lanes in Wyboston, who would do the job. Still, pretty unusual for a main dealer to be unable to remove a bolt....

jor

[apex]

Hi,
thanks for your info, I do have the Volvo green manual and also a VADIS disc, both show the
earlier version of this engine, that shows the water pump being used to adjust the timing belt
tension.
I have the later engine (1995) that uses a dedicated tensioner.
The reason I chose the main dealer, was the critical tension required to tighten the pulley
bolt also they, the main dealer had carried out this procedure last.
Having read the servicing data for job, I am not convinced there is a need to remove the crank pulley ? but have not fully inspected the work due to weather condition and unable
to use my garage.

many thanks for your input, have a great Christmas.

[jor]

No reason that you should not do it yourself if it's just the tension you are after - I'm afraid my maths days have long gone but if you tighten up then hang off a 3ft torque wrench a few times that will be over the requisite 400Nms. Disregard the dial gauge bit unless you want timing. As the belt is behind the pulley, unless you have access to a magician it's got to come off. There's no problem in getting a few pages of the manual, though if you are planning to keep it's probably worthwhile to do the pulley, tensioner and water pump all together. If you have not already got a Volvo belt Gates is the recommended part, there are a number of 'belt kit sellers' on auction sites - but often they don't say what's in the 'kit' and you will even find people selling 119 tooth belts as correct for your car(!).
Should you wish to do a bit of background reading on the engine try the d24 list at tufts.edu


jor

[apex]

Thanks for your input, I have read the D24 service manual also I have Auto Data instructions that is more relevant than the Volvo Manual and covers my version of engine.
The main difference being that there is no need to drain the coolant as there is a dedicated
tensioner used to tension the timing belt.
I have also managed to obtain the special crank pulley tool, it would appear my choice seems
to be, that the bolt either will undo or shear using a long lever. I think the dealer did not want to be in that position.

regards

[green van man]

I am not going to say it's impossible but I have not heared of a crank bolt snapping. Try snatch loading the bar rather than just a steady pressure. Pull jerk pull jerk will be more likely to succeed.

Paul.

[huron]

I've done three Tdi's and other than that theyr'e as tight as hell not had any problem. My bar is 8' of scaffolding tube. Always use a new bolt.
All the best, Hugh.

[apex]

Hi,

I have started soaking the bolt with a solution of acetone and synthetic oil, using a 50/50 mix
Would you remember what size thread the bolt is ?
I have not been able to locate a source of supply for this item.

happy new year to you

[Ian21401]

I concur with green van man and Huron. I’ve done the cam Celt on my 1992 940 twice. The bolt is F.....Tight but a long bar and a heavy thump hammer on the end of the bar to “surprise” it did the trick the first time. Just a long bar last time.