Wanted 1800S

[Eagerbeaver]

My first post here so please treat me gently.

I've been along admirer of many Volvo cars. I remember a light blue 1800ES regulalry parked outside the pub near my house where I grew up. The parents of a teen girlfriend had a lovely 145E and the 164 is beautiful.

My wife is not a great fan of the estates but I she would be happy with a coupe so the search is on for a nice 1800S. I'm in no rush to buy but have funds avaialble for the right car straight away.

I'm not keen on cowhorn bumpers but I wouldn't dismiss such a car. Condition and quality of repairs is more important than anything.

Please pm me if you are looking to sell sometime soon.

I saw a dark grey one with red interior parked outside a hotel near the Trafford Centre in Manchester (I hope that information doesn't incriminate anyone) and I guess I should have left a note on the windscreen as that looked a very fine example.

I live in NW England but am happy to travel for the right car.

Many thanks.

[Eagerbeaver]

I've been to see one today. Too much rust, too little metal and too much filler.

[agent_strangelove]

Hate to say it but odds are you will look at lots of them at that have lived a hard life... Plan for a it to take awhile, but if you got the funds, then a nice one will come along...


Chris

[Peterjohnbull]

Weirdly I found the best way was to:

1. Ensure you do not have any experience with cars beyond adding oil to your company car and paying Audi mechanics lots of money.
2. Certainly do not bring one of your best and oldest friends that has 4 classic cars from 60s and 70s. He is best left at his home.
3. It is important to get carried away and forget to even look under the car although some cursory searching for rust is allowed.
4. Make sure you buy the first one you see.
5. Test driving is for losers
6. Buy from a dealer who charges a dealer's price but is unlikely to offer any support or guarantee and when you cannot get the overdrive to kick in tells you it was working (then turns his mobile phone off).
7. Ignore the fact that when the dealer turns on the engine he keeps the engine revving (so you don't hear the engine running at low revs).
8. Breaking down in the centre of Oxford (on a grass verge as the dual carriageway has no hard shoulder) is always a good idea, then driving the last 15 miles at 25mph (due to fuel starvation as the inline fuel filter is blocked as is the filter in the fuel pump). Have you ever been on the A34 at 25mph? You won't be popular.

Is that not how everyone bought their car?

Pete

[Notlob]

Originally Posted by Peterjohnbull

Weirdly I found the best way was to:

1. Ensure you do not have any experience with cars beyond adding oil to your company car and paying Audi mechanics lots of money.
2. Certainly do not bring one of your best and oldest friends that has 4 classic cars from 60s and 70s. He is best left at his home.
3. It is important to get carried away and forget to even look under the car although some cursory searching for rust is allowed.
4. Make sure you buy the first one you see.
5. Test driving is for losers
6. Buy from a dealer who charges a dealer's price but is unlikely to offer any support or guarantee and when you cannot get the overdrive to kick in tells you it was working (then turns his mobile phone off).
7. Ignore the fact that when the dealer turns on the engine he keeps the engine revving (so you don't hear the engine running at low revs).
8. Breaking down in the centre of Oxford (on a grass verge as the dual carriageway has no hard shoulder) is always a good idea, then driving the last 15 miles at 25mph (due to fuel starvation as the inline fuel filter is blocked as is the filter in the fuel pump). Have you ever been on the A34 at 25mph? You won't be popular.

Is that not how everyone bought their car?

Pete

Glad it's not just me then!

Dave

[Notlob]

Originally Posted by Peterjohnbull

Weirdly I found the best way was to:

1. Ensure you do not have any experience with cars beyond adding oil to your company car and paying Audi mechanics lots of money.
2. Certainly do not bring one of your best and oldest friends that has 4 classic cars from 60s and 70s. He is best left at his home.
3. It is important to get carried away and forget to even look under the car although some cursory searching for rust is allowed.
4. Make sure you buy the first one you see.
5. Test driving is for losers
6. Buy from a dealer who charges a dealer's price but is unlikely to offer any support or guarantee and when you cannot get the overdrive to kick in tells you it was working (then turns his mobile phone off).
7. Ignore the fact that when the dealer turns on the engine he keeps the engine revving (so you don't hear the engine running at low revs).
8. Breaking down in the centre of Oxford (on a grass verge as the dual carriageway has no hard shoulder) is always a good idea, then driving the last 15 miles at 25mph (due to fuel starvation as the inline fuel filter is blocked as is the filter in the fuel pump). Have you ever been on the A34 at 25mph? You won't be popular.

Is that not how everyone bought their car?

Pete

Glad it's not just me then!

You could also add buying blind off ebay, getting the car delivered by the owner and paying up before you've been for a test drive!!

Ooops - Double post - sorry!
Dave

[Burdekin]

Even the ones claiming to be top notch and restored by professionals can be dogs full of rust in the UK. Ensure you know the problem areas as it's rust that is the problem with the P1800. Mechanically there isn't anything really to worry about but body parts and repairs are expensive for the P1800 and it's a tricky car to fix properly, hence why you'll find plenty with bogged repairs.

[Eagerbeaver]

I think the chances of finding an original rust free example are slim to none so the quality of restoration work is most important.

A number of factors have come together which have pushed the prices of these lovely little cars to a higher level than most had expected and I would have expected to see some owners wanting to cash in but there is little sign of that.

I'm hoping to buy at the top end of the market as I feel buying a good car pays dividends in the long run but equally and expensive car doesn't mean its good.

[Brickhouse858]

These are state side, but never know.

When I went to LA and got my 71 1800E, I was thinking about stoping by and looking at this one.

69 1800s, states E though. Also, two weeks ago had price at $4500, now $6000.

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv...146131815.html


A bit pricy. 63 vert 1800. States custom, so pro isn't an original vert.

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/2148260174.html

Good luck with your search.

[chri-s]

Bought mine four years ago, I even contacted the ''expert'' who had ''restored'' it before selling it to the lucky sod I bought it off and he assured me it was a loveley sound car. It turned out to be a clever cocktail of filler and rust. I still have some bits of the more artistic filler that I use as paperweights.
I do only have myself to blame, I was desperate to own one and consequently all the sensible bits of my brain were turned off and the selective hearing was turned on. Just be careful as even spending fortunes doesn't guarantee a sound car.
At the very least take a mechanic/professional vehicle inspector with you and hopefully you'll avoid buying a lemon, not that theres anything wrong with buying a lemon as long as you are aware of it.
Check mine out on flicker and you will see what I mean http://www.flickr.com/photos/64_volvo1800s/