The Morbidmobile Blog

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by mocambique-amazone

your inlet is still the best, not easy to modify, still the best. I use them at the LH2.4 systems, perfect.
good luck, Kay

Funny you should say what you put in red in the quote kay, i said very similar to Tom on his other thread about injectors.

My line of thought is to a great extent the K-Jet is self-compensating for capacity changes so as long as the idle mix is set right, the rest of the mixture should follow suit, perhaps needing a tweak on the control pressure to avoid going lean at high revs.

I also suggested keeping the standard bore (2" i think) of the exhaust as his exhaust is much longer than standard by about a metre, due to the fact it's a hearse. With the volume of each cylinder pulse (as well as several other variables) the larger engine should suit the longer exhaust better and the smaller bore of 2" will help to retain low end torque.

[TomSaintJames]

Thanks for the advice folks, I'll leave the injection system well alone then! A positive in the budget department at the very least. The seller wants to sell the engine complete, apparently some of the folks at the boat yard aren't too happy about 'untidiness'. Let the bidding commence!

Interesting thoughts about the exhaust, not something I've ever considered really.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by TomSaintJames

Thanks for the advice folks, I'll leave the injection system well alone then! A positive in the budget department at the very least. The seller wants to sell the engine complete, apparently some of the folks at the boat yard aren't too happy about 'untidiness'. Let the bidding commence!

Interesting thoughts about the exhaust, not something I've ever considered really.

To be honest Tom, i wouldn't even bother about bidding if you want it, just hit the BIN @ £600 and arrange a courier. Actually, change that, tell him you'll give him £550 to cover the loss of the flywheel and starter motor as it's now not as complete as it was when it was first listed.

Use your own words and/or figures but if you want that engine, secure it as yours for the best price you can get it for, bearing in mind the lack of flywheel and starter motor.
It's no great loss as it happens as you have a starter motor and you'll probably need your driveplate (automatic flywheel) in any case. The seller doesn't know that though! Use it to your advantage!

If/when you do get it, pull the plugs out and pur some ATF-U down the plug holes and leave it to soak while you do other things. Turn the engine by hand to start with (plugs out so the ATF is expelled onto rags) to make sure it turns freely. IF so, i'd suggest a new timing belt before trying to start it, much easier out of the engine bay!

You may have to swap the dizzy from yours as well, i don't know what ignition system it'll come with, if so get both engines to a timed position on #1 cylinder, mark the relative position of the rotor arm to the dizzy body and then swap them over, lining up the rotor arm with the marks you previously made.

That's assuming you have a block mounted dizzy on both engines?

[TomSaintJames]

Ebay success!

I am brainstorming some jobs to be done so that the engine will run as well as can be on K-jet, one of these is to fit new injector seals as Dai sells on his website. On the bottom of the item details, he mentions it would be best to replace these along with new 'Injector Buckets'. Does anyone know what these are? The internet only brings up Volvo truck, 7.0 diesel applications.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by TomSaintJames

Ebay success!

I am brainstorming some jobs to be done so that the engine will run as well as can be on K-jet, one of these is to fit new injector seals as Dai sells on his website. On the bottom of the item details, he mentions it would be best to replace these along with new 'Injector Buckets'. Does anyone know what these are? The internet only brings up Volvo truck, 7.0 diesel applications.

Great news on winning the bid Tom! While new injector seals are generally a good idea, you know your engine runs on what you've got, i'd suggest transplanting the inlet manifold complete with injectors (if your manifold has the injectors in it?) and worry about the injector seals later.

I've not heard the term "injector buckets" before so i searched for them on Dais site :

"0 product(s) found for "injector buckets"" was the result!

Whether he means the filters that sit in the top of the injectors or not is another matter, couldn't find those listed either?

[TomSaintJames]

Thanks Dave, it is still lumpy at idle - not sure if there is a vacuum leak somewhere or if the holier than thou downpipe is causing this. It will still stall after initial startup sometimes, not very often now and only seems to be if there is a high load on the alternator (full blowers and lights for example) or power steering. Hmm, interesting - mysterious buckets!

So I was out and about today and decided to finally get around to an exhaust quote, for a manifold-back standard stainless system the quote came out at £780, which was a little more than i'd expected!

I will get some more quotes, but I know and like this place so may also ask the price for a downpipe-back system to see if that's worth doing, I still have the new downpipe from way back when I replaced the rest of the exhaust, that hasn't been fitted yet.

I also popped into a local-ish classic engineering and machining shop to see about any work that may be required on the penta block and the current head. It was a proper old school series of sheds, with some seriously cool looking and obviously quite old machines. It was the kind of place you probably don't find anymore, the bloke was not a people person and I almost thought I was going to get a 'get off my land' type response! But he said he'd do the work, but not any of the dismantling etc. So i'll ask around other places as I won't have the time or resources to be taking engines apart, not to mention the know-how!

It's booked in for the prop bearings to be sorted tomorrow, i'll get them to look at the gearbox output bearing and seal along with the gearbox mounts too whilst there about it under there. If all goes well, I very much look forward to not listening to that bloody whine all the time!

I'm still pleased with how much nicer it is to drive now that everything isn't vibrating.

[TomSaintJames]

Finally the prop bearings are getting looked at!

The mechanic has the new mounting brackets, and found the correct centre bearing after the 4th attempt, but seems to be having difficulties finding the correct rear prop (3rd section for this LWB) bearing. He has a part on order from Volvo that hopefully is the right one, if not there is a volvo 'heritage' dealer part that he can try, but otherwise he's not sure where to look next. Fingers crossed for Moday/Tuesday when the part is delivered that it is correct.

The universal joint, i'm guessing this is something to do with the prop and gearbox connection, was also worn so that has been replaced - as has the downpipe.

So fingers crossed for next week, we're booked to go fetch the new engine on Saturday (22nd), so i'm hoping the Hearse will be ready by then but the garage is a man down. The Lexus' boot is big, but very high up, and I dont fancy lifting a 2.5l redblock up into there...! Whereas, using steps of pallets, I think it'd be relatively manageable to hoist it up into the hearse between the three of us. Also i'll be itching to take it for a long drive post-prop/exhaust work.

In other news, we will be able to get this engine project rolling more or less as soon as we get it, we set our finances up to account for one or two maintenance jobs on our cars per year, and have managed to save up just over a grand in the Hearse maintenance fund almost accidentally! The prop jobs and purchasing the engine will swallow half that, but selling off the unwaned penta parts should mean we can get on with it. Hurrah!

So I am thinking, and compiling a list of what needs to go where and any preventative jobs needed with this engine project. I will post my thoughts up here as i'd love your opinions on my relatively ignorant plan of action! Dai did comment on this thread previously about the dangers of a little knowledge in the wrong hands, and he is not wrong... Thanks.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by TomSaintJames

Finally the prop bearings are getting looked at!

The mechanic has the new mounting brackets, and found the correct centre bearing after the 4th attempt, but seems to be having difficulties finding the correct rear prop (3rd section for this LWB) bearing. He has a part on order from Volvo that hopefully is the right one, if not there is a volvo 'heritage' dealer part that he can try, but otherwise he's not sure where to look next. Fingers crossed for Moday/Tuesday when the part is delivered that it is correct.

The universal joint, i'm guessing this is something to do with the prop and gearbox connection, was also worn so that has been replaced - as has the downpipe.

So fingers crossed for next week, we're booked to go fetch the new engine on Saturday (22nd), so i'm hoping the Hearse will be ready by then but the garage is a man down. The Lexus' boot is big, but very high up, and I dont fancy lifting a 2.5l redblock up into there...! Whereas, using steps of pallets, I think it'd be relatively manageable to hoist it up into the hearse between the three of us. Also i'll be itching to take it for a long drive post-prop/exhaust work.

In other news, we will be able to get this engine project rolling more or less as soon as we get it, we set our finances up to account for one or two maintenance jobs on our cars per year, and have managed to save up just over a grand in the Hearse maintenance fund almost accidentally! The prop jobs and purchasing the engine will swallow half that, but selling off the unwaned penta parts should mean we can get on with it. Hurrah!

So I am thinking, and compiling a list of what needs to go where and any preventative jobs needed with this engine project. I will post my thoughts up here as i'd love your opinions on my relatively ignorant plan of action! Dai did comment on this thread previously about the dangers of a little knowledge in the wrong hands, and he is not wrong... Thanks.

There's plenty of support on here for you Tom, most problems can be found and fixed with a few posts. You will definitely need a new timing belt for it though, i enlarged a couple of photos from the listing and there is a defeinite split in the front edge of the timing belt. Can't remember if it's the square or round toothed belt but if you got both and made arrangements to return the incorrect belt with the shop you'd cover your bases. Also invest in a new tensioner, chances are the bearings in it have Brinelled especially as it's been sat near salt water for however many decades!

I'd also recommend new patch bolts for the driveplate as you will have to swap that over, use the old bolts to ensure you have it in the right place before fitting and torquing the new bolts.

No doubt i'll think of other tips to help you out - have you got an engine hoist or can you borrow/hire one?

[TomSaintJames]

I've started a new post, and I just can't seem to write anything without rambling... So apologies for the essay over there.

No access to an engine hoist, but I won't be doing much of the work myself, unfortunetely I will be paying someone to do most of it. As far as collecting the engine, the seller managed to lift the penta engine himself into and out of his van, using a couple of pallets as steps - so i'm not too worried about that.

I'd assumed the cambelt would need replacing, but didn't think about new bolts - as always, thanks Dave. There would be fewer of these cars still going without your input, i'm sure!

[TomSaintJames]

Oh no, a bad thing just happened I've seen this picture on facebook and thought naughty, naughty thoughts! I know, I know, I'm hopeless...



A) The hearse would look really, really cool with a lift
B) We could fit higher aspect ratio, squishier tyres to our nice 17" steel wheels, which would make it more comfortable with imperfect roads. We wouldn't go for offroad/mud grabbers but good quality, tall low rolling resistance types.
C) The front struts are extended (will need 75mm shock spacers), and rear raised by spring spacers, so standard suspension travel = no issues with brake lines.
D) Ground clearance would no longer be a problem! It's surprising how often the exhaust catches a road hump, or road when there is a sharp incline change, the long body means we have to be a bit carefui.

There is a kit to raise your 740 5" on LucaCarMods, the OH said do it (unusual, usually defaults to NO), but we'll at least wait until the engine is sorted and the current tyres are more worn (they're 50% worn at the moment) IF we even go with this.

Obviously this will affect the handling and perhaps the economy aswell, but as both are pretty damn poor in the first place why not?