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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Amazon estate fuel tank anyone?Views : 3005 Replies : 13Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Feb 18th, 2017, 17:29 | #11 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Yesterday 13:53
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Chatham
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Have a look at the old tank for the arrangement of the breather pipe on the input neck. You really should have this as it stops the tank being under any sort of vacuum. With the low down intake the estate needs to have a fully sealed cap to stop the slop leakage when cornering, hence the need for a breather. This should also help with the slow feed at the pumps.
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Feb 22nd, 2017, 14:53 | #12 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 00:07
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Connecticut, USA
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Palmer;
I am following this thread with interest...nice work sofar! Some comments: I have to agree with Derek on the Filler-venting. In addition to the Filler-Pipe, there has to be a vent provision to allow expelling air as fuel is added down the Filler-Pipe to allow uninterrupted filling, and also to allow make-up air to replace consumed fuel, later. If necessary, inspect how this was implemented on your old one, and clone it on your new one. Derek; I know what you mean about the low Filler needing an unvented Cap, to prevent slosh-spillage, but do you know how is make-up air allowed into the Tank? I believe the Tank-vent terminates behind the sealed Filler-cap, so this would solve interrupted filling issue, but I wonder how make-up air enters Tank if Cap is unvented...? I recall this coming up before, but don't recall the answer. I think a vent hose with check-valve would do it, but again, it's worth studying the factory implementation... Palmer; Installing such a big mass of SS, you would be well advised to consider and take steps to mitigate galvanic issues because of the dissimilar metals between Tank and Chassis. According to my reference chart here: http://www.sw-em.com/galvanic_chart_NSWC.jpg and depending on which flavor of SS the tank is made of, there could be some significant galvanic voltage between Chassis and Tank, to drive galvanic corrosion of the Chassis, since it is the least noble...and since we know..."you can't stop Mother Nature"!...I'd procure and install some Zinc anodes from the boating trade! Cheers |
Feb 22nd, 2017, 19:25 | #13 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Aug 29th, 2018 23:03
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: North Wales
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Thank you both for the advise!
I changed the breather hose not long ago, and checked it was clear when i changed the tank. I have a feeling the slow filling is related to the baffle arrangement, when i get round to cutting up the old tank to make an oil pan ill take a few pics of the inside. Very good point on the galvanic corrosion, I have switched to SS bolts and copper grease but didn't think of the car, the tank and chases are isolated with black mastic but sink blocks wouldn't harm. To the boat yard! thanks again Palmer |
Oct 14th, 2017, 19:43 | #14 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Aug 29th, 2018 23:03
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: North Wales
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finally got round to cutting open the old tank. (i wanted to use it as an oil pan)
really pleased to see i had arranged the baffels is a similar fashion to the the OEM tank. It looks like the failure point was the pipe within the tank that ensures fuel is draws from the bottom of the tank. the base of the pipe had savourily corroded and where the pipe met the outlet had failed, this probably the cause of the fuel starvation issues when going up hill with anything less then a full tank picture if the lurking detritus (these things make awesome oil pans btw) Last edited by Palmer 221; Oct 14th, 2017 at 19:46. |
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