New owner with a couple of questions

[MichaelAC]

Hi,

I've just joined the forum here after buying my first Volvo for a few years. I used to have a 240 then a 940 so no stranger to them. Just got another Labrador so obviously had to get another one. I went to Wales in a Mini R53 JCW with the dog and the wife (no jokes) and quite frankly, I could see this wasn't going to work, especially when puppy grows up.

So I bought a 2005 V50 2.0D and have a couple of questions. It has full Volvo history and 71,000 miles and is immaculate. However, I know that the service schedule states the DPF should be changed at 75,000 miles. Does everyone change it then regardless or wait until there are problems?

Also, has anyone that's used a none Volvo DPF replacement had any problems with it?

And finally, my clutch pedal went a bit slow on the return today on my way to work but was OK again on my way home. Anyone had this before and is there a solution if it recurs?

I have done the search thing and it's been really helpful but hasn't quite answered these questions.

Thanks in advance,

Michael.

[volvo for ever]

hi theres a recall on cluth master cylinders old plastic rods breaking .also make sure clutch return spring is fitted to assist it back

[IainG]

Hi
I have fitted a DPF from this company
Either from their website or from their eBay shop.
The eBay shop was cheaper for some reason.
Looks well made.
No issues but only done 30 k since fitting.
Kit I had came with everything and took about 1 hour to fit.

http://www.cats2u.co.uk/?gclid=EAIaI...SAAEgIUYvD_BwE

I changed mine at 80k because of advice over a fault code. However with hindsight the code was for something else and the DPF would have gone on longer. I think it all depends on how the car has been driven. Long journeys etc etc. I believe some have left it for over 100k. If yours is a wet system worth topping up the Eolys on time and getting the counter reset, and the DPF might carry on a lot longer.

Iain

[MichaelAC]

Thanks, it has been serviced with a Volvo main dealer all it's life so should have had the recall but I intend calling the dealer today to see if I can get a history report on it so hopefully can find out for certain then.

Iain, that's really good news, let me know if you do have any problems as this seems like a great alternative to the massive price a dealer fit will cost.

I'm beginning to see that there can be quite a few problems with the V50 but I suppose that's the same with all cars once you find out more about them. Had the same with my Mini and also the Mk 1 TT I have but actually mine are both quite reliable. Whenever I buy a new (old) car I am always a bit paranoid about it breaking down until it's proven itself reliable.

[iainmd]

As someone who waited until 103k miles until the DPF failed (luckily just before we drove to France on holiday) I'd now recommend changing it in line with the service schedule for peace of mind motoring.

I bought the Volvo part but had it fitted by an independent Volvo specialist (not a main dealer). Cost to replace it including parts was a little over £550.

[Slackey]

Originally Posted by iainmd

As someone who waited until 103k miles until the DPF failed (luckily just before we drove to France on holiday) I'd now recommend changing it in line with the service schedule for peace of mind motoring.

I bought the Volvo part but had it fitted by an independent Volvo specialist (not a main dealer). Cost to replace it including parts was a little over £550.

But you got 28k more miles out of it. Is there any other reason you would recommend changing in line with the service schedule? Did you notice any problems?

[dme123]

Originally Posted by Slackey

But you got 28k more miles out of it. Is there any other reason you would recommend changing in line with the service schedule? Did you notice any problems?

If you don't go far from home having it fail on you on a trip may not be an issue, but if you go beyond the service schedule you are running the risk of the car letting you down. If you'd been 500 or more miles away from home when the car started complaining you're looking at either recovery or getting bent over my whoever you can find locally to sort it out.

I did the same thing with a battery that I knew was getting weak, and ended up with it failing on a cold morning. Luckily I had a battery booster, but I should have just sorted it out when I knew there was likely to be a problem. No quick fix for a blocked DPF when you're travelling in France though!

[iainmd]

Originally Posted by Slackey

But you got 28k more miles out of it. Is there any other reason you would recommend changing in line with the service schedule? Did you notice any problems?

Two advantages to doing it in line with the schedule. The second is most compelling:

1. You don't end up driving about wondering at what point it will go into limp mode. Having read the manual I expected DIM notices to flash up on the dash with messages like "SOOT TRAP FULL" or something along those lines. That didn't happen. It went straight from fine to EML on and limp mode and on a 1.6D being limited to 3000rpm and no turbo is painful, struggling to get further than 50mph and taking an age to get there. If that had happened on our 3,000 mile round trip to the Alps and back it would have been murder.

2. The fuel economy has rocketed. Our car averaged about 49mpg when we bought it with 57k miles on it. By the time it got to 100k that was down to 44mpg. Immediately after the DPF failed fully and was replaced our average economy has been 55mpg and has sat around that mark ever since. Our profile of driving and road types hasn't changed.

To my mind, it's just not worth the wait for the inevitable. I can see why you would because I did it, purely to save money, but I'm pretty sure it was false economy in the end.

Iain

[MichaelAC]

Originally Posted by iainmd

As someone who waited until 103k miles until the DPF failed (luckily just before we drove to France on holiday) I'd now recommend changing it in line with the service schedule for peace of mind motoring.

I bought the Volvo part but had it fitted by an independent Volvo specialist (not a main dealer). Cost to replace it including parts was a little over £550.

That's not a bad price I guess, there have been far higher quoted. Thanks for the advice on getting it done, I think I agree with that, last thing I want is for it to just give up on me. And Iain, thanks for the info on the mpg, that's fairly compelling.

Some really good help on this forum, thank you all. I didn't realise that there was another forum as helpful as the TT forum, which is great. I started asking questions there then moved into answering them as I got to know more and more.

[chrisdc]

Originally Posted by MichaelAC

And finally, my clutch pedal went a bit slow on the return today on my way to work but was OK again on my way home. Anyone had this before and is there a solution if it recurs?


Michael.

Do you have a hydraulic clutch? If yes, it might be worth getting that clutch fluid changed. I had very similar experience with 350Z Roadster. Very low km (45,000) and supposedly dealer serviced. I know it's a completely different make and model but it's a relatively cheap procedure and will need to be done sooner or later anyway. In my case the fluid change made a huge difference.