DIY Powershift gearbox oil change

[chrisdc]

Hi everyone,

I'm considering a DIY oil change on my V50 Powershift gearbox. After watching a YT video by a Volvo Tech I'm pretty certain it's within my capabilities.

My car had it's clutches changed at around 96,000km. I bought it (to all intents and purposes) from a Volvo dealer. The car was traded when the clutches went. In SA we have the concept of a MotorPlan; basically a type of forced insurance built into the purchase price of new vehicles. It varies from make to make. On the Volvo it was 5 years / 100,000km, whichever comes first.

So new clutches were fitted under warranty. I've had automatics before but always the conventional torque converter types. This transmission was clearly different and in my opinion, not very refined at all.

Bear in mind the oil would (or should) have been changed with the clutches, along with the filter. But was it? Within a few thousand km 1.5L of oil had to added (by a different franchised Volvo dealership).

The new clutches have done a mere 19,000km in about 4 years. On time alone though, the oil is due for a change again.

I've been quoted close on R 4000.00 for an oil and filter change. The oil is fantastically expensive and I haven't been able to find it at any of the usuall aftermarket parts vendors. So I did a little research on the net and found a German made product called Fuchs Titan DCTF. It's recommended for the Powershift box and a bunch of others besides.

The catch is I have to buy 20L. I'll need about 6L. It will still work out slightly cheaper than getting the dealer to do the job. The big incentive for me is there'll be enough to do the job 3 times. I'm worried there will be debris in the box from the last clutch failure. This option gives me plenty of leeway with regard to flushing.

What do you guys think? Anyone used this product? I'm confident it can do the job. But I am worried about how it might react with any original oil still trapped in the box after draining. I suppose a double change will take care of that...

With regard to refinement: I have to reverse up very steep driveway. If I don't 'prime' the box by going backward and forward a few feet in my garage before tackling the grade, then the car reverses with a jerking motion. And sometimes, especially if I'm parked on a slight incline, the car will not engage reverse for several seconds. The shifter goes to the reverse notch but the car revs as though it were in neutral. General shift quality can be very good and very bad. I suspect it sometimes sticks in a gear. Shift quality does improve as the transmission warms up though.

[chrisdc]

Umm.. now that I think about it, it goes into Reverse, reverses, but then won't engage Drive for a few secs. But it's definitely park angle dependent. On a level surface it always engages. I hardly used the car because the belts were due. But that will change now.

[Simmy]

Originally Posted by chrisdc

Umm.. now that I think about it, it goes into Reverse, reverses, but then won't engage Drive for a few secs. But it's definitely park angle dependent. On a level surface it always engages. I hardly used the car because the belts were due. But that will change now.

powershift box takes 7ltr plus a bit u will lose when seting levels ,buy transmission filter from ford dealers cheaper than Volvo set the car level on jack stands level plug tricky access behind nearside wheel

[chrisdc]

Originally Posted by Simmy

powershift box takes 7ltr plus a bit u will lose when seting levels ,buy transmission filter from ford dealers cheaper than Volvo set the car level on jack stands level plug tricky access behind nearside wheel

Thanks, didn't think of going to Ford for the filter. I already bought it from Volvo but I'll check Fords prices and post back with a current price from both agents.

I bought the Titan DCTF oil, which, as it turns out, comes in handy 1L bottles. You still have to buy a case of 20 though.

Am about to do the change now. Just came inside to read up on how to get the complete air filter assembly off. The one in the video was completely different.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by chrisdc

Thanks, didn't think of going to Ford for the filter. I already bought it from Volvo but I'll check Fords prices and post back with a current price from both agents.

I bought the Titan DCTF oil, which, as it turns out, comes in handy 1L bottles. You still have to buy a case of 20 though.

Am about to do the change now. Just came inside to read up on how to get the complete air filter assembly off. The one in the video was completely different.

I would use the genuine oil , you don't want to risk that new clutch pack . do you realise there are 3 drain plugs on the earlier boxes and 2 on the later ones ? There is a complex temperature / top up procedure in the manual as it takes quite a time for the oil to go from the front compartment of the sump to the back compartment . . you can skip all that by putting back 5.5 litres after draing it all . That takes the oil level to virtually the correct level after a road test ..

[chrisdc]

Originally Posted by Clan

I would use the genuine oil , you don't want to risk that new clutch pack . do you realise there are 3 drain plugs on the earlier boxes and 2 on the later ones ? There is a complex temperature / top up procedure in the manual as it takes quite a time for the oil to go from the front compartment of the sump to the back compartment . . you can skip all that by putting back 5.5 litres after draing it all . That takes the oil level to virtually the correct level after a road test ..

Thanks for your input Clan, that clutch pack was Volvo fitted along with original oil and it's never worked properly. I've had flaring, shuddering, gears not engage and generally clumsy messy shifting. Figured I had nothing to lose. I have some reservations about the standard of workmanship, needless to say.

I've just finished the change and it went well. My box is the 3 plug type. There is an excellent video by a Volvo Tech in what appears to be a Volvo facility. I think I found the link here somewhere. The only part I couldn't duplicate was the checking of oil temp with Vida. I drove the car to warm it up and took my time with the draining and filling. The video said to add 5.5l initially, warm box again, run through the gears, open side drain, then add more oil until it flows out of the side drain. When that flow ceases, plug back in and you're done. I used 6.5l total including what went in to the new filter. I filled the best part of 8 x 1l plastic containers with the old oil. Will measure the old oil more accurately when I have a chance, just for interest. It's going better than before. I suspect being a gen 1 box, it's never going to be a particularly refined drive.

[Simmy]

hope this solves your problems too much oil in transmission is as bad as too little . how dirty was your removed atf?

[chrisdc]

Originally Posted by Simmy

hope this solves your problems too much oil in transmission is as bad as too little . how dirty was your removed atf?

Yes, me too. The oil was cleaner than I thought it would be. I was expecting some debris from the old clutch pack. The oil was drained into a spotless cat litter tray and from there into clean white yoghurt containers.

It is my intention to decant the old oil into a clear plastic or glass container, then take a photo and post it here. Someone like Clan would immediatly know if the colour / sediment ratio is acceptable for 19,000km. I'd also like to analyze the old filter.

Don't know if it's my imagination but the oil seemed dirtier from some drains than others, each drain representing a different function of the box.

[chrisdc]

For what's it worth, my driving style is extremely sedate. My thinking is the less momentum you have when you hit that immovable object, the less damage there will be I'm over 50 and 'semi retired', so generally not in any hurry. I don't tow either. Being a technical person, I have quite high levels of mechanical sympathy.

[Bungo]

I think that was me posted the Volvo tech link.
Regarding PS and inclines. These boxes have their own style and one of them is on inclines. I think it's due to their setup for doing/holding on any hill start.
I find be patient with them and they get there eventually, they don't like being rushed.
Good job on doing your own oil, although it should have been done with clutches.