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Front upper suspension mount

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Old Dec 9th, 2017, 13:11   #1
reggit
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Default Front upper suspension mount

Just noticed this appeared separated when I was refilling the screen wash. I don't recall it looking like this before? Also the bolt/thread on the drivers side one turns so ridiculously easily and the passenger side one doesn't - guessing that's a clue!

Can someone advise if this looks normal or failed? I have a good suspension rattle, so guess it could be the cause?

V70 front upper mount by d.a.thornber@btinternet.com, on Flickr
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Last edited by reggit; Dec 9th, 2017 at 13:30.
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Old Dec 9th, 2017, 13:43   #2
wise old monkey
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thats proper failed, replace both sides
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Old Dec 9th, 2017, 16:01   #3
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Thanks for the confirmation.

Is is a reasonable DIY proposition, outside in the snow? Or am I going to break a habit of a lifetime and pay a garage? Haha.
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Old Dec 9th, 2017, 16:57   #4
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You need really good spring compressors, otherwise injury is very likely. Not the hardest job by any means, but replace the upper mounts with genuine Volvo XC-90 ones. I believe they are uprated.
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Old Dec 9th, 2017, 17:06   #5
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I'd make sure the nut is not simply loosened. To properly check the spring seat, open the hood, idle the engine and have a buddy turn the wheels from lock to lock. You will clearly see what's the situation.

Only buy Volvo or Sachs for these parts, it is critical, almost all other brands fail very quickly.

It is not the easiest job but it's doable. Make sure the car is not on an incline. You will hate snow and cold, first timer I would put a good 1-2h on a side going relax then bring the strut inside for disassembly.

Plenty of videos on Youtube, by all means check them first as removing the spring is a serious safety concern. It is a job with big bolts and with stuck bolts (the end link to the strut is almost always stuck) and the strut is somehow tricky to remove/put back in place (Youtube). It needs a quality torx socket sets, a 1/2 ratchet, on top of the spring compressor (as mentioned get a quality one). There is also a 'star' shaped nut, I use an adjustable wrench for this.

Hopefully you already have the jack stands.
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Old Dec 9th, 2017, 17:18   #6
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What does a good one look like, have a sneaking feeling mine may have gone the same way?
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Old Dec 9th, 2017, 19:19   #7
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Ta,
I’m ok for tools, apart from the spring compressors. Changes are I could borrow some, although at this time of year I may call a Volvo Indy to see how much they want for the job.
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Old Dec 9th, 2017, 20:26   #8
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Did my passenger side one a month ago - I purchased the correct Volvo tool from E bay for tightening the top nut on the shock absorber whilst holding the centre shock absorber with a torx socket as you have to tighten the nut to a set torque. The other issue I had was finding a torque wrench with the correct setting and length to re torque the two nut and bolts holding the shocker assembly to the wheel hub carrier.Along with the spring compressors it took about 1-2 hrs to do. Just make sure the gearbox is in neutral to enable the wheel hub to move and easily realign with the strut assembly
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Old Dec 9th, 2017, 20:30   #9
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Mine was slightly worse - the rubber 'cap' had collapsed totally on one side and was causing the car to knock over bumps - sounded similar to an anti-roll bar linkage sounds when worn, car was still drive-able though but wouldn't recommend leaving it as it alters the wheel camber and would cause wear on the tyre and associated handling problems !I can provide a photo of how it looks now if you need one
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Old Dec 9th, 2017, 21:44   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raleigh753 View Post
The other issue I had was finding a torque wrench with the correct setting and length to re torque the two nut and bolts holding the shocker assembly to the wheel hub carrier.Along with the spring compressors it took about 1-2 hrs to do. Just make sure the gearbox is in neutral to enable the wheel hub to move and easily realign with the strut assembly
The lower strut bolts I believe are 18mm (keep a wrench on it so it doesn't spin) while their nut is larger, I think I use a 15/16 imperial socket but not sure. Also the camber must be adjusted.

I always remove the axle end nut and push the axle back from the spindle so I don't dismantle the cv joint - the spindle will move freely and must be kept vertical with a wire so as not to fall on the side and stretch the cv joint.
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