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S80 '98-'06 / S60 '00-'09 / V70 & XC70 '00-'07 General Forum for the P2-platform S60 / V70 / XC70 / S80 models |
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Control arm issues.Views : 1621 Replies : 25Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Sep 22nd, 2019, 00:22 | #1 |
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Control arm issues.
Hi,I planned this morning to change both control arms and balljoints on my '06 XC70.I'd been spraying plus gas on the various nuts and bolts over the past week so,having watched SiRobb change a control arm in 20 mins(while holding a camera!),hoped I would get everything done in 4 hours or so, ha!
Every nut and bolt had seized and could only be loosened by a breaker bar and then winding back and forth until they came loose so it took the best part of 4 hours just to get to the point where I could take off a control arm(passenger side). By this time I'd decided to leave the balljoints for another day so attempted to fit the new control arm. It went on fairly easily but when it came to locating the balljoint,no matter how I tightened the ratchet strap it would not slip into place and seemed to be about an inch adrift. It didn't help when the ratchet strap stopped ratcheting but even with brute strength and ignorance, and a long bar,I could lever the control arm low enough but the balljoint would not seat. I suspect that,despite being careful, the driveshaft has come apart and added extra distance hence the problem. I can't be the first person this has happened to so how do I check and if needed relocate/rebuild the shaft? Before anyone asks I compared the control arms side by side and they matched and even tried refitting the old arm but the problem is still there. Any advice welcome but it may be a few days before I can have another go at this since I work on the car outside and the weather is changing for the worse. Cheers John |
Sep 22nd, 2019, 00:36 | #2 | |
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If the inner joint has come apart you will know about it just by looking - the boot will be noticeably stretched and the joint will be more or less fixed in a straight line rather than the shaft being able to move about at different angles. The inner joint can be reassembled reasonably quickly but it helps to have an assistant and you'll need a new clip for the boot. Basically you need to remove the clip from the gearbox (large) end of the boot; you will see now for sure whether the bearings are still properly located in the large three-lobed housing or have slid out the end. Reassembling is easiest if you have someone to hold the shaft vertically for you, with the inner joint at the bottom end - align the three bearing races with the three large flat areas on the housing and guide all three in simultaneously by "wobbling" them in and out until it descends into the housing. It's hard to describe better than that - you will feel that the three bearings can move a fair bit on their mounts and it's just a case of manipulating them all together until you feel the assembly go in. Regarding the ball joint - could you use a bit of "gentle" pressure from below with a jack? |
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Sep 22nd, 2019, 01:00 | #3 |
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Cheers for the reply - I'll have a look inbetween the forthcoming showers.
I tried using a jack on the control arm but the balljoint thread would still only just touch the control arm. I also tried jacking up the strut while levering down the control arm but it seemed that whatever I tried, even though the balljoint was angled as far as it would go, it would never line up and 'seat' correctly. Thanks again. John |
Sep 22nd, 2019, 02:36 | #4 |
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Hi, what if you remove the struts, you then will not have them fighting you,
Dave |
Sep 22nd, 2019, 10:20 | #5 |
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Hi, thanks for the reply.
That was one of the things I thought of trying at first but realised (eventually) that this was more than just 'new part reluctance' and more or less convinced myself that the problem is the driveshaft - so taking the strut off may mean I could fit the control arm - but find I couldn't refit the strut and still have issues with the driveshaft. When the weather clears ( and I'm not quite so p**sed off) I'll look at it again. Cheers John |
Sep 22nd, 2019, 11:27 | #6 | |
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Sep 22nd, 2019, 11:50 | #7 |
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Hi, getting the arm far enough down wasn't the issue, it was that the balljoint seemed to be an inch or so 'beyond' where it could possibly seat - at best I could get the threaded part of the balljoint to just rest on the edge of the cone seat in the control arm. No amount of jiggling or gentle persuasion achieved anything but marking up the soft aluminium.
Cheers John |
Sep 22nd, 2019, 11:52 | #8 | |
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Sep 22nd, 2019, 12:06 | #9 |
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Thats my thoughts exactly. Unfortunately it looks like the driveshaft has never been moved so getting it out to investigate may be yet another issue.
Cheers John |
Sep 22nd, 2019, 23:26 | #10 |
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Sorry for the issue, indeed I always first undo the drive shaft end bolt (14mm) first then make sure I can push in the shaft so it moves freely inside the hub. Only way not to cause it to stretch. You may still try to replace the CV joint balls - not sure if it's the same type, see links below
Stretched outer CV joint may simply be stiff to rotate (a CV joint would rotate really easily). Removing the inner CV joint from the transmission is where you may need some (or a lot) of patience. I use the spare wheel lug wrench to pry it out www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIlEIkgmS84 , if it doesn't work, the trick is to use two such 'tools' one at each end (180 degrees apart) and keep prying pressure with both while slightly rotating the shaft - keep rotating little by little while prying on it - will need a helper for this. To turn the shaft, the other wheel needs lifted (or transmission in N) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qXcn6QjYDA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F1OMoNBHeXE
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