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S80 D5 Clogged PCV(/crankcase breather)?

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Old Sep 1st, 2019, 15:48   #11
Ummi60
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Did a little more research about the oil filter housing piece and came across scandix. That place is a god send lemme tell ya.
So, the "valve" itself is just the top of the oil separator tub
(Parts number: 1033347, refrence number: 8642424). To get it off i need to remove the whole oil filter housing from the engine block. There's 2 seals sealing it to the block (1st Product No: 1028059, Reference: 8642421, 2nd Product No: 1028060, Reference: 8642828).

Gonna start calling places tomorrow and asking around if anyone can get those parts to me as soon as possible.

Thankfully i have a back up car so i dont have to drive the volvo in the mean time.
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Old Sep 1st, 2019, 17:42   #12
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Okay. Started dismantling the turbo piping. The metal pipe going to the inlet from the intercooler (where the egr connects) was caked with about 2-3cm on soot/sh*t.
The crank case breather tubes were both unobstructed.

Had a closer look at the oil separator and its valve/lid. Looks like i can get the lid off without removing the whole oil filter housing. Should have enough space between the fuel rail and block to slide a torx bit through with a wobbly extention.

Blew air through the heated crankcase ventilation nipple as well and that didnt have any obstruction either. It was however ziptied to the rubber hose that goes into the turbo and theres crack showing in the rubber around the heated nipple socket.
The metal pipe going from the MAF to the turbo was a little dinged up but no cracks that i can see

Will post pics soon as im on mobile right now.
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Old Sep 1st, 2019, 18:36   #13
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So the rubber pipe that has the heated crankcase ventilation nipple in it,
you say has a crack/spit, did you remove this pipe from the turbo and have a good look as these do split because they become soft,
Dave
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Old Sep 1st, 2019, 18:49   #14
Ummi60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davebb View Post
So the rubber pipe that has the heated crankcase ventilation nipple in it,
you say has a crack/spit, did you remove this pipe from the turbo and have a good look as these do split because they become soft,
Dave

Yes i did. When the piece is in its natural state you dont actually any splits. When its squeezed or manipulated, thats when the cracks appear.
It has become pretty soft as well. Requires very little force to collapse it completely in my hand.
I have added a picture as well.
I have to also mention that the heated nipple was secured into the rubber using a ziptie so im guessing someone has already had a go at this before.


All the other rubber turbo pipes are pretty soft as well. (Except the one going from MAF to the metal pipe going to the turbo).
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Old Sep 1st, 2019, 19:08   #15
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OK thanks , if air is getting in there, the MAF will not see the amount of air it is suppose to , you could try to us silicone rubber until you get a new one, £27 from parts monster ebay,
the heater nipple should have a clip,
when I did a smoke test that was were mine was leaking, I had not done the clip up ,
did you do the actuator test with vida ?
Dave
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Old Sep 1st, 2019, 19:31   #16
Ummi60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davebb View Post
OK thanks , if air is getting in there, the MAF will not see the amount of air it is suppose to , you could try to us silicone rubber until you get a new one, £27 from parts monster ebay,
the heater nipple should have a clip,
when I did a smoke test that was were mine was leaking, I had not done the clip up ,
did you do the actuator test with vida ?
Dave
Did not get around to the actuator test as the car throws itself into limp as soon i rev it over 1500rpms.
Just ordered a new turbo inlet pipe locally and it should be here by tuesday. Will try to take the breather valve portion off in the meantime and see if that might be clogged or something.
(Want to get the turbo to actually try and spool instead of revving it once and hoping for it to not go into limp automatically.)
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Old Sep 1st, 2019, 19:40   #17
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to do the actuator test in vida you will not be driving or revving the engine,
you do need the engine running,
you do need to see the actuator on the turbo, to see it move smoothly ,
Dave
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Old Sep 7th, 2019, 17:15   #18
Ummi60
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So I replaced the turbo inlet pipe, put everything bacl together and erased all the error codes. The car still didnt really want to go over 2k rpm and threw it into limp as soon as the turbo kicked in. Vida still showed MAF faulty signal.
Figured id fit my old MAF and try that just in case and surprise surprise, car started revving just fine and didnt throw codes at me anymore.

What i noticed now tho is that there is quite a bit of oil leaking from between the vacuum pump and engine block.

I also still get the "plop plop plop" noise and quite a bit of steam at idle when i take the oil cap off but when the engine is revved over 1.5k, the plop plop stops and the steam is sucked in.
Tried the trick of blocking the engine pad vaccuum valve but that doesnt seem to change the plop plop.
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Old Sep 7th, 2019, 18:28   #19
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Hi you must have a vacuum leak at the mounts/pipes as at 1500rpm as
the vacuum actuator on the side of the air filter,switches off the mounts ,

The MAF that you fitted that is not working, What make is it ?
get a new O-ring /seal from Volvo for the pump,

Did you remove the oil separator ?
Dave
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Old Sep 7th, 2019, 18:44   #20
Ummi60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davebb View Post
Hi you must have a vacuum leak at the mounts/pipes as at 1500rpm as
the vacuum actuator on the side of the air filter,switches off the mounts ,

The MAF that you fitted that is not working, What make is it ?
get a new O-ring /seal from Volvo for the pump,

Did you remove the oil separator ?
Dave
The maf that is not working is Hitachi brand
(Hitachi Hueco I believe).

Did not remove the whole oil filter assembly, was able to just remove the lid.
The membrane looked a bit crinckled but not broken. Cleaned the seals with a bit of fresh oil and a clean rag before Putting it back together.
Tbh it looked rather clean inside, no gunk or anything.

Regarding the "plop plop" noise and engine mounts.
I took the pipe going from the engine pads to the valve on the air box completely off and blocked it with my finger, still no change.
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120kw, diesel, pcv, s80


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