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V40 T4 - slow to start sometimes

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Old Jul 24th, 2011, 12:47   #1
page3
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Default V40 T4 - slow to start sometimes

Hi all,

Done search for similar issues, but nothing quite matches. I'd appreciate any advice.

V40 T4 Phase 2 (2001) Petrol Auto. 143,000 miles.

Battery replaced last year (* fairly low powered model, Less than Volvo recommend I have noticed, but no issues during last winter)
Last service December 2010 (full service, new plugs etc). Prob. 9000 miles ago now.
Alternator and pully mechanism replaced in June 2011
New fan, thermostat fitted Nov 2010 cured overheating issue (fan not coming on)

Idle from cold: 1000
Idle when warm 750
Runs really well. 33+ mpg average on commute.

Symptom: used to start on first crank always. Now sometimes takes 3-4 seconds to 'catch'. Once started runs fine as above. Crank 'speed' seems fine (not slow) just engine doesn't 'catch'.

I thought this only happened once car was warmed up, but checked today (to get my facts right before asking here!) and first attempt (from cold) took 4+ seconds), further attempts to start (tried both on cold engine, and after warmed up) all started immediately.

So, I'm baffled, as there doesn't seem to be a pattern. Sometimes, it starts on the button, sometimes not.

Two points worth mentioning:

1. BK44 additive added about 200 miles ago but still on same tank. 98 oct petrol being used.

2. Problem was definitely there before the alternator was replaced, but went away completely after I had that done in June. Now a month later problem seems to be coming back.

Last edited by page3; Jul 24th, 2011 at 12:55.
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Old Jul 24th, 2011, 15:31   #2
960kg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by page3 View Post
Hi all,

Done search for similar issues, but nothing quite matches. I'd appreciate any advice.

V40 T4 Phase 2 (2001) Petrol Auto. 143,000 miles.

Battery replaced last year (* fairly low powered model, Less than Volvo recommend I have noticed, but no issues during last winter)
Last service December 2010 (full service, new plugs etc). Prob. 9000 miles ago now.
Alternator and pully mechanism replaced in June 2011
New fan, thermostat fitted Nov 2010 cured overheating issue (fan not coming on)

Idle from cold: 1000
Idle when warm 750
Runs really well. 33+ mpg average on commute.

Symptom: used to start on first crank always. Now sometimes takes 3-4 seconds to 'catch'. Once started runs fine as above. Crank 'speed' seems fine (not slow) just engine doesn't 'catch'.

I thought this only happened once car was warmed up, but checked today (to get my facts right before asking here!) and first attempt (from cold) took 4+ seconds), further attempts to start (tried both on cold engine, and after warmed up) all started immediately.

So, I'm baffled, as there doesn't seem to be a pattern. Sometimes, it starts on the button, sometimes not.

Two points worth mentioning:

1. BK44 additive added about 200 miles ago but still on same tank. 98 oct petrol being used.

2. Problem was definitely there before the alternator was replaced, but went away completely after I had that done in June. Now a month later problem seems to be coming back.
......at your mileage if you haven`t got the dash light up then start with having the engine hot and after 30 mins see if it starts on the button or +4 secs......if this is the case it is 99% the Fuel Pressure Regulator which is on the fuel rail, if it doesn`t effect the starting and it starts then it could be the Temp.Sensor by the thermostat not giving the full enrichment mode for cold starting as it should..... you could suspect the fuel pump in the tank but if it runs ok then it won`t be that, of course the large fuel filter by the back wheel may be clogged but it won`t delay a start only the continual running will it interfere with .......the fuel pressure in the fuel rail must be held with a residual pressure of 29psi for 20 mins with the engine not running, if it doesn`t then it takes time for the pump to get that pressure, 45psi running pressure, because the FPR is faulty but starting with a delay from cold the pressure will already be there so it is something else eg. Temp. Sensor

......if you can read the codes if any then do that but a faulty FPR gives up no error codes so one has to start somewhere and the best is to start at the cheapest if it`s not going to a garage........i usually get moaned about that i changed all my sensors ok so they are mostly expensive but some faults can cover so many different parts which can be faulty so if one can replace the parts involved instead of just the one part then you will have a reliable car again especially as these motors are 12 + years old .......i am surprised that at your mileage also you haven`t replaced the oxygen sensors as there life is only to about 100,000mls but you do have good fuel economy so they must of been replaced before hand......that BK44 is superb stuff my motor still goes like a rocket and very smooth running....
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Old Jul 24th, 2011, 17:09   #3
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Thanks for the detailed reply.

Just gone and tested it as suggested.

Start from cold - 5 seconds to fire.
Drove until warm.
Start after 10 seconds - immediate.
Start after 30 minutes - 5 seconds.

Runs fine once started, just completed 900 mile trip last week with it running fine.
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Old Jul 24th, 2011, 18:04   #4
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Originally Posted by page3 View Post
Thanks for the detailed reply.

Just gone and tested it as suggested.

Start from cold - 5 seconds to fire.
Drove until warm.
Start after 10 seconds - immediate.
Start after 30 minutes - 5 seconds.

Runs fine once started, just completed 900 mile trip last week with it running fine.
.....that is exactly as i had, but just to be sure, pull off the vacuum pipe where it goes to the spigot on the head just above the throttle housing from the FPR and sniff the end !!, if you can detect petrol then the diaphragm has definetly gone...5 secs is a long crank when you are actually doing it.....i am sure 99% it is the FPR.....only get a Volvo one which was about £80 for the FPR and £26 for the "O" rings which are really a must as the old ones upon removal will swell and after all if the old ones leak what is the point of replacing the parts, use vaseline on assembly and not grease!! ....it is easy to do yourself.....this is a common problem on these cars but mine happened at about 116,000mls so you have done well....Good Luck
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Last edited by 960kg; Jul 24th, 2011 at 18:08.
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Old Jul 24th, 2011, 18:12   #5
page3
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Reassuring to know!

I do seem to have had one thing after another*, and given the 15,000/year milage I now do I'm seriously thinking of trading it in. However, these all seem to be high milage/age related issues so hopefully sometime soon I'd have sorted them all - and it does drive great when working.

* dealer covered the initial issues on warranty, but was slow to respond and diagnose, resulting in more breakdowns that necessary.
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Old Jul 24th, 2011, 18:39   #6
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.....the thing is when buying another motor don`t forget it is always sold by it`s previous owner because there is something wrong and rarely these days just for a change and the owners wallet is waving it`s head.....there are a lot of owners on here that have problems and when you read between the lines they are new owners......as you have spent a bit on new parts why don`t you just get it running as it should and then enjoy the motor otherwise the money you have already spent is lost and you have just done it up for the new owner.......if you trade it in you won`t get much for it and you will have another big problem to repair the replacement one you get!!!....
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Old Jul 24th, 2011, 18:51   #7
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Originally Posted by 960kg View Post
.....the thing is when buying another motor don`t forget it is always sold by it`s previous owner because there is something wrong and rarely these days just for a change and the owners wallet is waving it`s head.....there are a lot of owners on here that have problems and when you read between the lines they are new owners......as you have spent a bit on new parts why don`t you just get it running as it should and then enjoy the motor otherwise the money you have already spent is lost and you have just done it up for the new owner.......if you trade it in you won`t get much for it and you will have another big problem to repair the replacement one you get!!!....
Good point. It did just get us to Anglesey and back in comfort, over mountain and across a few beaches! Oh, did 36mpg average over 900 miles.
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Old Jul 24th, 2011, 19:05   #8
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and its a Volvo..
engine will be Fine (given proper oil/filter /plug changes) for another 100K + miles,
bodys dont usually rust, suspension and bushes ,not too bad a job if/when they go,

name me ONE "new" (made in the last 4 years) car that will be (other than a volvo..)

A/ about in 12years time (same age as ours are now)....

B/ cost as little per year when (IF!!) they get to 12years old

C/ didnt cost X3 the £ of ours when "brand new"

d/ isnt a OLD (ie proper) landrover



PS
6000 is the oil/filter service intervals for ours, not the 12k most others use. if yours is 9k since last swaps,, head on over to "here" , grab some gen volvo filters and your choice of decent oil. plugs are (if gen volvo) 32kish before needing replacment (unless faulty)
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Last edited by andy_d; Jul 24th, 2011 at 19:07.
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Old Jul 10th, 2017, 07:00   #9
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i will post here iven if is an old thread

i have some similar problems with my volvo t4 '99.

sometimes it starts hard ( not a pattern here) the car can sit 2 days and will start fine. for example yesterday i started it in 2-3 hours interval after a road trip and the car started hard ( after 2-3 seconds) if i give it some gas, will start right away. this morning started just fine after 1 night of sitting.

i replaced all filters , oil, belts( before replacing fuel filter the car had no power at all and was shacking under full throttle)

the spark plugs i did not replaced yet. ( i bought genuine volvo ones and will replace soon)

symptoms beside this starting problem:

- smell of fresh gas after the engine is warming up (only in town driving or if i rev it on stop) in extra urban i don't smell any.
- on full throttle, the car feels like is losing power ( if i accelerate gradually, feels normal)

these problems could be related to fuel system? maybe the fuel pump has dirt in filters or is just tired and not working correctly? or could be the FPR ? i don't smell any fresh gas in the engine bay.


regarding FPR, has anyone replaced genuine PN with this alternative Marelli part number - 219244340501 or BOSCH Fuel Pressure Regulator 0280160557? these are alot cheaper...would be great if they fit.

thank you in advantage for any advice.

Last edited by nutzu; Jul 10th, 2017 at 07:04.
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