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D5 fuel filter

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Old Feb 6th, 2016, 14:42   #1
RM955I
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Default D5 fuel filter

Ye gods!

I removed the small (18mm) nut to allow the fuel to drain and release any pressure. Will the rest of it shift...no chance. I daren't put any more force on the large nut as I can feel the plastic distorting.

Admittedly I'm using an adjustable spanner as I can't get a socket in there and therefore only putting force on 2 sides of the nut but....bloody hell, it's tight. I can't imagine it's seized as it's plastic: it must have been done up by an ape.

What do other people use....a strap wrench? If so, what size...

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-too...-98mm-capacity

or

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-too...-82mm-capacity

Thanks
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Old Feb 6th, 2016, 15:14   #2
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Half an hour on the internet suggests I need a Laser 6238 filter tool - probably the best option to be certain of not breaking the housing, unless someone knows otherwise.
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Old Feb 6th, 2016, 15:26   #3
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Normal decent quality strap wrench has always worked for me .
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Old Feb 7th, 2016, 11:20   #4
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32mm ring spanner will do it. I tried with an adjustable and no chance, soon as I got a proper spanner, off it came

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Old Feb 11th, 2016, 17:30   #5
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Given that it's plastic would a hex rather than a bi hex spanner be better, or has no one had a problem with bi hex.

Coming from the soft as cream cheese land rover bolts where single hex is a must if you want to succeed just wondering.

Paul.
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Old Feb 11th, 2016, 19:56   #6
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Thanks,

Someone is lending me a 32mm socket (hopefully it's low profile). If it still won't budge I'll buy the laser tool which looks to be a copy of the Volvo tool to fit around the castellations
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Old Mar 5th, 2016, 13:57   #7
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If anyone is interested, I decided to buy the Laser filter tool for £17 as I've read a few threads about cracked filter housing using other wrenches/straps and for the relativelly small cost, just don't need the hassle. It made easy work of it. Starting the car after took a fair bit of cranking though!

Interesting to see that the part is actually a MANN part - for anyone who swears "always buy Volvo".

Is that typical of the state of a filter? It's my first diesel and I'm surprised at the state of it. I could look through the service history to see when it was last done...but can't be bothered.
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Old Mar 5th, 2016, 15:30   #8
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I always cringe when I read about fuel filter changes. Why do people start the car up after a filter change without priming the system?
Change the filter, turn on the ignition, wait for the fuel pump to pressure up then turn the ignition off. Do this twice more and there will be no air in the system and the car will start normally.
Its not a good idea to let it run out of fuel I think?
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Old Mar 5th, 2016, 16:20   #9
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I tried that....let it prime first at least 3 or 4 times. Then I slackened the drain on the filter to ensure I was getting fuel, primed it again...nothing. In the end I had to crank it but no more that 5 seconds at a time. I probably had to do that 5 or 6 times, then it caught...and died...and caught...and died...and eventually settled down.
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Old Mar 5th, 2016, 16:42   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RM955I View Post
I tried that....let it prime first at least 3 or 4 times. Then I slackened the drain on the filter to ensure I was getting fuel, primed it again...nothing. In the end I had to crank it but no more that 5 seconds at a time. I probably had to do that 5 or 6 times, then it caught...and died...and caught...and died...and eventually settled down.
I did mine two weeks ago, the only thing I did different to you was that I did not open the filter drain again, maybe doing that let an air lock back in?
Mine made real gurgling noises as it primed, I cycled the ignition until this stopped and the car started an ran normally?
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