Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > 850 / S70 & V70 '96-'99 / C70 '97-'05 General > 850/x70 S1 Articles
Register Members CarsBlogs Help Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices

850/x70 S1 Articles How to's and step by step guides on a specific repair or modification to a Volvo 850/70 car.

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

850 Wing replacement-Save yourself some work and money.

Views : 11311

Replies : 0

Users Viewing This Thread :  

 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Apr 12th, 2010, 13:03   #1
ShadeTek
Premier Member
 
ShadeTek's Avatar
 

Last Online: Nov 9th, 2019 22:33
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Inverclyde
Blog Entries: 2
Default 850 Wing replacement-Save yourself some work and money.

I replaced my front near-side wing on a fine sunny spring Saturday morning, it was almost a pleasure. Both my front wings have rusted and so will yours unless you rustproof them now. I reckon they rust due to a wing mount rubbing against the wing itself and removing the enamel coating, causing the rust to start at the front of the wing. There is also a gap in the front of the liner where wheel spray can enter. See pic below.




When fitting the replacement wing on I fitted a neoprene spacer to limit any friction between the mating surfaces.
Before starting I Waxoyled the replacement wing which was of an identical colour code, 420-21, so no spraying was needed. The old one fell apart around the edge when it pulled it off.






1. Jack the car up safely and remove the wheel.

2. Grind or snip the old plastic arch liner rivets off.

3. Loosen the rear nuts which hold the arch liner in place and then remove the liner. This is what it looks like
when it is out.




4. There are two bolts at the back of the wing accessible from a half opened door using a UJ on you ratchet set.

5. Four bolts on the top of the wing come off very easy.



6. Remove the indicator and remove the long top bolt at the rear of where the indicator sat and then access from below, the second front bolt, (ringed in red in the above picture). There are two other bolts accessible from below at the front on stands, 10mm if I remember correctly, using a ratchet spanner is the best way to take these off. One goes into a caged nut attached to the wing and the other self taps into the stand-off.

7. Your wing should now be loose. Now, I read somewhere online that you have to be careful when working around the wings that you can set an airbag off. Can anyone confirm this is a potential problem? So I treaded carefully anyhow just in case. According to the Haynes manual, you have to remove the spoiler and the bumper! I found I didn't have to do this. The cowling which holds the indicators and headlamps goes across the front of the car and also supports the relay pack and radiator/condenser. This was obstructing the removal of the wing. The cowling was now a bit loose and can be pulled carefully forward without wrecking the radiator or the AC condenser. You can angle the back of the wing up and manoeuvre the front of the wing out of the cowling. When all was clear I waxoyled the inner wing and surrounds for good measure.

8. Angle the replacement wing into position and lightly tighten all the bolts, close the door and bonnet to align the edges of the wing to the door and the bonnet with no tapered gaps.

9. Tighten the bolts and refit the indicator..

10. Put the wheel arch liner back into position and sit the catches on the arch lip, then tighten the liner retaining nuts on the inner wing.



11. You should have obtained, prior to removal, replacement plastic rivets pictured above. I got mine from partsforvolvo online at 0.35p each. These are to re-attach the wing liner to the wing and to hold on the mud flap. The same rivet size is used for the mud flap btw. I found half of the rivets exploded on tightening and one hit me in the face! Maybe I am doing something wrong here? N.B. Wear safety goggles when doing this.

The finished article will look like this.




I also injected some Waxoyl rust proofer around the wing liner edge and around the mudflap to reduce any future water ingress. The replacement breakers wings I obtained all had rust in the same place at the stand-off mount and as far as I can see, it will be inevitable that all these cars will suffer from this same fault.
__________________
Tek-Emo Villis Emo Bis

V70 SE NAV 1.6 D2 2015MY POWERSHIFT, D4162T, 40000miles, RED.
/VOL FCR/PEPER OBD2/Acron 9135 OBD2/L.E.D Flasher
ShadeTek is offline  
 


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 22:15.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.