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How To: How to Repair Broken Odometer

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Old Aug 5th, 2010, 16:26   #1
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Default How To: How to Repair Broken Odometer

Right, we all know that there s a common problem with Volvo Odometers in the 200s and 700s. for those who dont, there is a cog inside the mechanisms, which looses a few teeth as it gets old, and the odometer then stops turning. there are loads of how to guides for the 200 series cars for this problem, but i havnt been able to find any for the 700, so i thought i'd write one as i've just done the job myself.

Before we start you will need to aquire a new set of Odometer Gears. Dont ask me where to get them from, as i got mine from Will (OldBlueVolvo), wh happened to have some spare. You will also need Philips and Flat headded screwdrivers.

for those who know how to remove the Instrument Cluster then you can skip the rest of this post, and go on to the next one.

The Easy Bit

I'll only cover the square type instrument cluster, as i have no idea how the other ones come out!

it would be advisable to disconnect the battery before begining work on this as you will be disconneting electrics. if you do so, ensure that you know your radio securit code.

Removing the instrument cluster from a 740 is very simple. at the bottom of the cluster, where the adjusters for the clock and dash lighting are, there are two plastic covers. prize these out with a small flat headded screwdriver carefully, avoiding cracking them.

then you will see two screws hidden by the covers. these are all that holds the cluster in place. remove them, and then disconnect the cables. the cables can all only go back in one place so far as i know. if you have a turbo model, or auxilliary guages fitted, then you will need to disconnect these also, but i dont know how they are connected.

the not so easy bit

now that the Instrument cluster is out, we need to remove the speedometer unit from it. this is also quite simple.

first you need to remove the rheostat, and undo the screws that hole the white and black sections of the dash together. this means undoing several screws, which are of various sizes, and need to go back in the right places. i advise laying them out according to their locations so that you can remember how to put them back.

remove the four screws that hold the rheostat on, and the others which hold the rest of the cluster together.

then before takint the two sections apart, you need to remove the four screws that hold the speedometer in place. take them out now, because it will be difficult to do so once the two sections of the cluster are apart without damaging the guages.

now seperate the two sections of the cluster, and pull the speedometer out of the white section. the speedometer may feel like its stuck in place, it will be the electrical connections to the PCB on the back of the cluster, and they will come free with gentle use of force.

here are the connections

this bit needs some bravery

ok, now you need to take the speedometer apart. first you have to remove the needle.

do this by holding it at the centre part, not the arm, as it will snap off, and turning anti clockwise past the zero. you will feel it break free of the guage, and then you can pull it off.

now you have to remove the face of the dial. this is held on with glue, and is made of flexible plastic. peel it off carefully from one corner.

the blue left on the clear section is where the tint for the lighting has stuck to that part, rather than to the face.

there are now three small flat headed screws that hold the clear case and the guage unit itself together. undo them, being carefull not to damage them, as they are made of a soft material.

now you should be able to seperat the guage mechanism from the case.

the last bit

now all you need to do is fit the new gears.

to do this you need to remove the motor. the motor is on the right hand side as you look at the odometer, and is held on by these two screws.

now that its free, you can lift the motor and circuits away, being careful of the wires, and remove the gears. sometimes they will stay attached to the motor rather than sitting in the odometer.

now would be a good time to check the circuit board for dry connections, and also to wint the odometer on to correct milages if you think you know approximatly what the milage should be.

fit the new gears into their housing,

from this point, in true haynes fashion, "reassembly is the reverse of removal!"

hope this is helpful for people. i certainly could have done with something similar to help me know that i was doing thinks right.


Last edited by CTCNetwork; Aug 5th, 2010 at 17:22. Reason: Merging into one nice article.
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Old Aug 5th, 2010, 17:23   #2
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Nice article, thanks for the time posting it.
Have merged the posts as on and moving to articles.

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