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I said i'll be back!

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Old Apr 3rd, 2019, 20:27   #241
Laird Scooby
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Ignoring the location (about 60 miles away!) of the nearest wheel refinisher to me Mark, it would get rid of the last bits of paint but that's not really the problem.

Those gouges have got me thinking. I'm assuming/guessing that there was some kind of filler in them under the first coat of primer which, as i've discovered, is hard as bell-flint.

It makes me wonder what i'll find under the primer that refuses to shift - will there be other casting faults that then need refilling with some sort of filler?

If so, all i will have achieved by removing those last traces of primer is making more work for myself and having to paint the wheels anyway, instead of having the fronts mirror polished and lacquered.

As this is the spare, it wasn't quite so critical if things didn't go according to plan or to put it bluntly, if i screwed it up. However, what i've found is that while the wheels looked nice with the original paint on, they were originally rough-cast, etch primed, spray filled, flatted then primed, 2 coats of silver and at least one of lacquer then baked at 140C to harden the paint.
It worked well, after all, the wheels are 30+ years old and when clean, still look pretty good.
This is really what put the idea in my head to mirror polish them. It seems there was a large dose of "smoke and mirrors" by the wheel manufacturer/Volvo originally though.

It leaves me in a quandary. I've spent about 2-3 weeks, on and off with about an hour a day doing a bit here and a bit there and most of that has been stripping back the original paint.
With what i've found with the gouges and the last reluctant bits of primer, i'm seriously considering just repainting it and when i come to do the other 4, just sand them down enough to key the surface, repair any kerb rash with filler, prime and paint then lacquer them.
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Old May 27th, 2019, 23:00   #242
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I haven't forgotten about the wheels, i have only finished one so far :



Went for paint in the end, replacement tyre (that is legal and the correct size!) fitted and all nicely balanced. The rest are still waiting!

In other news, the fuel filler neck had a leak. Ever since i've had the car, there's always been an arome of super unleaded in the car, there have been several leaks that i've found and fixed and i had got to the point where i thought the smell was petrol fumes that had got into the upholstery/carpets and the pong was permanent.

However, i went to get something out of the void space/cubby hole above the spare wheel well a month or so back and as i lifted the wooden floor panel, was hit by petrol fumes - fresh ones! Stripping the trim out, the pong got stronger until i found this :



Nice hole, about 2-3mm big in the breather pipe of the fuel filler! As a temporary measure, i did this :



Short self-tapper sealed with RTV sealant - worked well but it was treating the symptom, not the cause. Enter a replacement fuel filler neck, courtesy of Luke (360beast) which i finally fitted this afternoon. I have pics but not uploaded them as yet, will post some when i do. In between showers, coffee/rest breaks and actually doing it, it took me about 2 hours.

Tested it while putting the last few panels back, after about 30 seconds idling, it coughed, spluttered and ran a bit rough then cleared itself, which i put down to an air lock in the pipe. I'd also fitted a non-return valve on the in-tank pump outlet so wondered if that was maybe sticking slightly as it was new.
About an hour later, went to take the hound for her daily rabbit-chase - not that she'd ever stand a chance of catching one and rarely see them in the day but i digress.
Got about 1/4 mile, started running rough then cut out completely.

First thought was the NRV had failed, got the hound home, grabbed a couple of tools and went back, whipped the NRV out and refitted the fuel hose direct to the pump outlet on the tank.

Still wouldn't start!

On a hunch, i decided to check the fuse so pulled the fuse out (hardly any effort, fuse was quite loose!) and it looked good, blades were bright and shiny so put it back and pushed it in a bit harder.
Turned the key and roared into life!

Now i have to refit the NRV to see if it is ok and doing what i hope it will but meanwhile, ever sicne i've had the car, to a greater or lesser degree it would sometimes go "flat" on me, yes it still drove but no "sparkle" in the performance, a bit unresponsive - you get the idea.
Since refitting the fuse a lot tighter, it's a lot livelier, more responsive and so on. Food for thought!

I'll run it for a day or three before refitting the NRV, just to make sure i've got the fault (fuse from the look of it) and then give it another try.

Meanwhile i'll get the photos of fitting the fuel filler loaded and onto this thread.
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Old Jun 22nd, 2019, 21:18   #243
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After my little episode with the NRV and the fuse, i refitted the NRV to try it. Within a minute or two, it stuttered and cut out again so i reconnected the fuel outlet hose direct to the tank again. Fired and ran so it got me thinking. I could easily blow through the NRV so it suggested no fuel was being pumped through the NRV, just being sucked through by the underbody pump. The fuel outlet hose didn't get any harder with the engine running than switched off, further indicating lack of in-tank pump action.

A visit to Rock Auto found a new in-tank pump and strainer which with shipping, Import Vat and so on came to about 35 and i've now fitted it (see this thread for more info https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=295939 ) and things have further improved.

Waiting on the main pump check-valve to land now to fit that and see if it returns everything to how i think it should be.

Meanwhile in other news, i changed the diff oil and found some swarf on the drain plug. Sadly the noise and vibration is still present, albeit both at a reduced level. Just enough of each to really niggle now!
Sourced another back axle with a higher ratio (bonus!) and now working out how to get it here etc.

Also fitted the rear ARB after cleaning and painting it :



Vast improvement in handling, roadholding and surprisingly, ride quality. Something immediatley obvious is pulling out of a T junction where the back end would previously roll, twitch and generally feel a bit odd, it now just follows the front which leads to a general feeling of the car being planted more firmly on the road.

Now things are more or less up together mechanically, i'm turning my attentions to improvements, subtle mods and so on. Not giving anything away just yet but i have some interesting ideas!
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Old Aug 14th, 2019, 22:57   #244
Laird Scooby
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Crikey, is it nearly 2 months since i updated this?

Had some fun and games in between with the drivers door latch - a spring broke meaning it wouldn't unlock properly. As i had no key for the doors (nothing except the ignition key) and the aftermarket central locking solenoid gave up the ghost fairly quickly as a result, Luke (360beast) came to the rescue with a set of locks from his breaker and a replacement drivers door latch which (because it was from a later car) came with an OE central locking solenoid already fitted.

In other news, remember the wheel i refurbished?



As you can see, the centre cap is still in the original Volvo silver and pretty scabby looking. Took me a while to find the right bits and even longer to get motivated to do it but..................





Rubbed down, plastic primed and sprayed a brighter silver than the wheels.

Meanwhile i'd been on fleabay and found a seller offering raised chrome vinyl "VOLVO" letters at a reasoanble price. Looking at their other items and a few emails later, i had a deal for some "VOLVO" letters in cheap, peelable vinyl for an even better price.





Then a good coat of the same colour silver as the wheel :





I'll remove the peelable letters tomorrow and then lacquer it, if i've got the idea right, i should have a "ghost image" of "VOLVO" on the centre cap! Will post pics if it comes out ok, if not i'll have a rethink and find another method.
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Old Oct 11th, 2019, 22:29   #245
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Oops, another 2 month update!

First, pics of the ghost logo after removing the Volvo mask :



After lacquering and at a few different angles :











In other news, it's also gained a 3.54:1 back axle which has improved economy and made it quieter at cruising speeds. It also cured the noisy diff that was rumbling much worse than i originally thought. In fact, i thought i'd gone completely deaf the first time i drove it afterwards!

It gave me two more problems though. First, the speedo read half of what it should have done, Second, the ABS light comes on at 20+mph.

For some unknown reason, Volvo fitted 1988 cars with ABS with a 96 tooth reluctor ring in the diff - all newer ones were 48 teeth.
THe speedo was originally designed to work with a 12 tooth rin, as per earlier 7xx models without ABS so they had Bosch design and build an ABS converter which taps off the signal from the rear sensor and divides it by 8 (96/12 = 8) to make the speedo read correctly. Bypassing the converter on the new axle had it reading 4 x the real speed (48/12 = 4) which gave me a clue to what the converter was doing - dividing ny 8 to give the correct number of pulses to the speedo from a 96 tooth reluctor ring triggering the speed/ABS sensor in the diff.
Now it only has 48 teeth, it showed half the speed.

Pulling the converter out and investigating the insides of it i found a divide by n counter where n is 2 to the power of the bit number used for the output. On the main chip, the 4024, there are 8 output bits, from 2^0 (=1) to 2^7 (128) and the 3rd output bit (2^3 = 8) was used on pin #9 of the chip. That in turn was linked to the op-amp so i cut the track and soldered a coper link wire to the op-amp side of the cut and the other end to pin #11, 2^2 (4) as the output so the input frequency is divided by 4 now instead of 8, correcting the speedo.

First problem solved!

Second problem is the ABS light - the ABS ECU gets the raw signal from the diff sensor so no hope of doing similar with that. Tried a later ABS ECU but overlooked (due to a migraine when i cheked the circuits) an important link that mine doesn't have within the ABS modulator. Anyone that needs a late 9xx ABS ECU, i have one available!

Luckily the ABS light doesn't come on until 20+mph so it passed the MoT today I have a few ideas in mind of how to solve this problem, will add details as and when i find which one works!

Meanwhile i've started the LPG conversion :



Only got the switch mounted so far but, hey! It's a start!
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