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I said i'll be back!

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Old Aug 7th, 2016, 19:45   #21
AndysR
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Some expensive ones don't work - again a lot of research until i found Classic Car LEDs as linked to for the H4 LED bulb upgrade. They actually know what they're on about and although not the cheapest - (a pain for you and me being tight-wads for the same reason)they supply good kit that seems to last and does what it says on the tin.

You're right about the trade off in life expectancy Vs brightness, i don't know the figures but for every extra watt of power from a halogen you decrease life expectancy of that bulb by x amount.
The headlights are indeed similar to the 940, possibly the same but they were fitted to 760s from about 88 onwards and i think the 740 gained them from about 1990 as well.



The mileage is 215k although nothing about the car except the odometer says this - it all looks, feels and performs like a car with less than half that.
It came with nearly a full tank of fuel (plus the standard issue errant Volvo gauge that lives on empty until it wakes up, shows the true contents for a random amount of time then sleeps again!) and i have to confess to deliberately hooning it a bit, just to give it a "shake-down".
I will of course be running it on BP Ultimate or maybe V-Power or the Esso version.

You're right about the dim-dip, i pulled the dim-dip fuse on my ROvers to disable it as the working voltage of the LED bulbs is listed as 9-32V if memory serves correctly. The dim-dip resistor is 1 ohm and the LED H4s draw just under 2A so there's only a voltage drop across it of less than 2V - with the alternator output being a regulated 14.0 - 14.4V, this means there is more than enough to light the H4 LEDs at full power.

At present i'm probably going to hang on to the original side repeaters, at least until i'm more certain about those LED bulbs i fitted to the clear ones. As yet they are an unknown quantity and may fail in short order - i've had too many LEDs do this so i'm treading carefully so to speak. Once i know they're going to be ok then they may well be available.

Must admit, i'm surprised there were only 2 bidders on the car, myself and A N Other who i suspect may have been a shill bidder as i don't think he wanted to let it go for £150 so bumped it a bit.


Had a play with the sunroof and bridged out the switch to prove the motor or not as the case was. It doesn't seem to want to even try to move in one direction and only tries a little in the other direction so i think it needs a replacement motor, possibly switch as well as i think that may be past its sell-by date thanks to repeated operation of a motor drawing more power than it should.
The hunt for those bits will begin tomorrow!
Sounds like you've found a right gem, at that mileage with a drivers seat that's not split its clearly been looked after, mines on a lot lets but unfortunately the leather has worn through on the bolster, although suspect the previous owner was short and probably rubbed past it to get into the car. In any case to have it running as well as it sounds it's probably been well maintained, if the engines running smoothly and quietly chances are the tappets have been adjusted at several points during its life which is another good sign of a maintained V6. Quiet and smooth, don't suppose you've had a chance to take any engine bay or interior shots at all?

Keep me posted on the LED front, pretty sure the 940's headlights are identical to the 760's. In someways it's nice that the 940 was in production for so long, it means the 760's like ours haven't aged as much as they would have done had they been the earlier shovel nose cars, although it would be nice for people to sometimes realise that the car is actually 28 years old and not just 18-20.. Lol

As for the sunroof, mine had the same issue and it was the motor, it might be worth you trying to open and close your roof manually and lubricate it in the process just in case the runners and guides are just sticking/tight in operation. But even if it doesn't cure the roof operation at least you know it's free and moving nicely if you have to fit a replacement motor
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Old Aug 7th, 2016, 20:46   #22
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I'll try to get some interior shots and underbonnet shots tomorrow Andy, i've been at the BL/BMC National Rally and Spares Day (Car show and autojumble in simple terms ) today and not long back - got quite a few photos to upload from that at the moment.

I'll certainly report on the LED progress, i was planning on using the car tonight for walkies with the hound and was going to leave the standard H4 bulbs in to get a benchmark, then fit a set of H4 LEDs i bought for my Jeep to see what the difference is. I know the headlight alignment is slightly out as one is higher than the other - i'll sort that first then try the LED bulbs after at least one night on the standard bulbs.

I had the same thing the other day with the "wrong age" - a friend came to visit who i've not seen for a while and i pointed the 760 out to him and he thought it was somewhere between K and N reg and was visibly shocked when he saw the "F" plate!

Same thought had occurred to me on the sunroof, last thing i want to do is fit a replacement motor and then burn it out freeing the roof mechanism off! As you rightly point out, once it moves freely, fitting a new(er) motor should solve the problem.
Then it's the ECC system to sort out - first impressions suggest a vacuum hose off somewhere as the airflow direction control isn't working. Also the green A/C light is permanently flashing so if it doesn't sense vacuum when it should perhaps that's why. Once that's sorted i can work out if it's actually cooling the incoming air, it looks like an R12 system which is a surprise on a 1988 car.
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Old Aug 8th, 2016, 08:45   #23
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I'll try to get some interior shots and underbonnet shots tomorrow Andy, i've been at the BL/BMC National Rally and Spares Day (Car show and autojumble in simple terms ) today and not long back - got quite a few photos to upload from that at the moment.

I'll certainly report on the LED progress, i was planning on using the car tonight for walkies with the hound and was going to leave the standard H4 bulbs in to get a benchmark, then fit a set of H4 LEDs i bought for my Jeep to see what the difference is. I know the headlight alignment is slightly out as one is higher than the other - i'll sort that first then try the LED bulbs after at least one night on the standard bulbs.

I had the same thing the other day with the "wrong age" - a friend came to visit who i've not seen for a while and i pointed the 760 out to him and he thought it was somewhere between K and N reg and was visibly shocked when he saw the "F" plate!

Same thought had occurred to me on the sunroof, last thing i want to do is fit a replacement motor and then burn it out freeing the roof mechanism off! As you rightly point out, once it moves freely, fitting a new(er) motor should solve the problem.
Then it's the ECC system to sort out - first impressions suggest a vacuum hose off somewhere as the airflow direction control isn't working. Also the green A/C light is permanently flashing so if it doesn't sense vacuum when it should perhaps that's why. Once that's sorted i can work out if it's actually cooling the incoming air, it looks like an R12 system which is a surprise on a 1988 car.
Look forward to seeing those.

Yeah that pretty much sums up how people see them isn't it, shame but I guess sometimes it's nice to see the shocked look when they do realise.

Probably is a vac issue, a lot of the lines are quite easy to get to once you've removed the glovebox from what I could see while I was renewing the glovebox light bulb on mine, also a quick tip which won't resolve the operation but worth it to get the system working efficiently. I found the temperature sensor which is in the courtesy light behind the sunroof can get quite clogged. It's always having air drawn across it and during winter I noticed that the ECC would start by making the interior quite toasty but the temperature would quickly tail off. I dropped the courtesy light down and found that the sensor was covered in fluff and dirt so not much air was getting to it. I cleaned it out and it's a marked improvement and seems to be working well, it's also quiet now as you used to be able to hear the sound of the air being drawn across it like a mini vac leak almost but as said after a clean it was quiet and the system works well.
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Old Aug 8th, 2016, 22:11   #24
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I wondered what that sensor was for in the courtesy light and guessed at temperature. Seems an odd way of doing it but i'm more used to a sensor on the side of the instrument pod with a small fan behind it which comes with its own set of weird noises if it becomes dirty.

Haven't exactly done much on it today except bought a set of rear pads for it for the princely sum of £11 - had a look with a mirror and a dose of contortionism and they looked like the square (cheaper) option so went for them. If it turns out they are the rectangular ones then at least i can change them - one of the benefits of using the local parts factor/shop.

The brakes were the main reason the previous owner was selling the rear pads are down to the metal and he got a quote to have the problem sorted. The place he put it into wanted to fit 4 corners worth of discs, pads and calipers at a cost of about £5-600. As far as i can see it's only the back ones and the discs aren't badly scored. Also the sticking caliper that had allegedly caused the problem freed itself with a bit of judicious hooning on corners on the drive home

When i have the jack out to do the brakes, i'll have a go at sorting the exhaust leak which seems to be coming from the flange between the front to middle sections - at least that's what it felt like when my friend stuck his hand on the tailpipe and i had a grope round where the noise was coming from.
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Old Aug 8th, 2016, 23:13   #25
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I wondered what that sensor was for in the courtesy light and guessed at temperature. Seems an odd way of doing it but i'm more used to a sensor on the side of the instrument pod with a small fan behind it which comes with its own set of weird noises if it becomes dirty.

Haven't exactly done much on it today except bought a set of rear pads for it for the princely sum of £11 - had a look with a mirror and a dose of contortionism and they looked like the square (cheaper) option so went for them. If it turns out they are the rectangular ones then at least i can change them - one of the benefits of using the local parts factor/shop.

The brakes were the main reason the previous owner was selling the rear pads are down to the metal and he got a quote to have the problem sorted. The place he put it into wanted to fit 4 corners worth of discs, pads and calipers at a cost of about £5-600. As far as i can see it's only the back ones and the discs aren't badly scored. Also the sticking caliper that had allegedly caused the problem freed itself with a bit of judicious hooning on corners on the drive home

When i have the jack out to do the brakes, i'll have a go at sorting the exhaust leak which seems to be coming from the flange between the front to middle sections - at least that's what it felt like when my friend stuck his hand on the tailpipe and i had a grope round where the noise was coming from.

It's early 80's tech, ok it was 87 model year when we first had it fitted to the 760 but it was in development well before that.. I guess there will be some value to checking for a vac source at the sensor, you should be able to hear it with the engine running if you're near it with the windows etc closed...

Sounds like you may have been lucky with the brakes then, although all will be told when you go to wind the Pistons back in, don't be surprised if you find them corroded and won't wind back in...

Is yours fitted with a cat, perhaps now's the time to ditch it if so..? My front box resonates and I've been really tempted with the idea of having it removed in favour of a straight pipe in its place to make the V6 a little more vocal and help with breathing too of course
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Old Aug 9th, 2016, 00:19   #26
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Funnily enough, the system i was on about with the tiny fan is also early 80s tech - the same system was used from launch in 1986 (although i think the Climate Control became available about 1988 on the car i'm on about) so in that respect they're contemporary. Strangely it looks like the A/C is R12 although R134a was already commonplace by then.

I'll try listening for the hiss with the engine running but in fairness i've not heard any hissing at all from anywhere, makes me think if there is a vac pipe off the ECC it's more likely to be the engine bay side of the bulkhead or perhaps a hose is kinked somewhere.

Forgot about the auto-adjusters and winding them back in! Hopefully they'll be ok and if not a few good squirts of WD40 and perseverance will do it. Worked on the bonnet hinges anyway!

Not sure if it has a cat on it or not, the guy i got it from said the cat had been replaced recently but i see no sign of Lambda sensors or the timing belt which was allegedly renewed 3 years ago!

If it does have a cat it will certainly be coming off! Already decatted my 95 827 coupe (legally and it will pass the MoT!) and my 93 827 Sterling (that one i can swing even without an LPG conversion because of the change over grace period) and i see no reason at all for cats in the first place. Granted they remove certain nitrates (nitrites?) from the exhaust but they replace them with H2S - hydrogen sulphide gas which is even more deadly and often much more quickly! Hence drive round the M25 at 3am and you know where the traffic jams have been because of the smell of rotten eggs, it's hydrigen sulphide gas in the atmosphere.
Also prefer the idea of roughly 15% improvement in power and economy and of course the V6 howl/growl being a bit more vocal!
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Old Aug 9th, 2016, 00:33   #27
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Funnily enough, the system i was on about with the tiny fan is also early 80s tech - the same system was used from launch in 1986 (although i think the Climate Control became available about 1988 on the car i'm on about) so in that respect they're contemporary. Strangely it looks like the A/C is R12 although R134a was already commonplace by then.

I'll try listening for the hiss with the engine running but in fairness i've not heard any hissing at all from anywhere, makes me think if there is a vac pipe off the ECC it's more likely to be the engine bay side of the bulkhead or perhaps a hose is kinked somewhere.

Forgot about the auto-adjusters and winding them back in! Hopefully they'll be ok and if not a few good squirts of WD40 and perseverance will do it. Worked on the bonnet hinges anyway!

Not sure if it has a cat on it or not, the guy i got it from said the cat had been replaced recently but i see no sign of Lambda sensors or the timing belt which was allegedly renewed 3 years ago!

If it does have a cat it will certainly be coming off! Already decatted my 95 827 coupe (legally and it will pass the MoT!) and my 93 827 Sterling (that one i can swing even without an LPG conversion because of the change over grace period) and i see no reason at all for cats in the first place. Granted they remove certain nitrates (nitrites?) from the exhaust but they replace them with H2S - hydrogen sulphide gas which is even more deadly and often much more quickly! Hence drive round the M25 at 3am and you know where the traffic jams have been because of the smell of rotten eggs, it's hydrigen sulphide gas in the atmosphere.
Also prefer the idea of roughly 15% improvement in power and economy and of course the V6 howl/growl being a bit more vocal!
From the factory it'll definitely be R12 only the US market vehicles had R134a so unless it's been converted of course, Volvo did a kit once upon a time...

Well hopefully I'm wrong and the brake renewal will be fine.

If it's got a cat it'll be a B280F which is 147hp.. Quite a drop from the B280E's, non car model, 170 hp.. Some more horses can be achieved for sure if it's got one. As for the timing belt that's an impressive achievement if it's had one as the car doesn't have one, it's a chain driven unit. Unless of course the previous owner had the chain renewed for some reason.. I guess that's possible.
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Old Aug 9th, 2016, 08:47   #28
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Old Aug 9th, 2016, 10:14   #29
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Thanks Cam!

Andy - just had a look through the "history file" that came with the car from the previous owners time with it. Half a dozen or so receipts, mainly for MoT but the last oil/filter change that he indicated was within the past year was in fact in 2012! That's just shot up my priority list!

Found the "cat" he had fitted - standard front and rear section, no restrictive/smelly things involved! Also found the receipt for the belts (which he thought included the timing belt and the cam belt) which were done 3 years ago, as was the removal of the air-con evaporator and a report about the air mode vacuum selection box being faulty.

It seems as if that should be my first port of call re sorting the air direction etc from the heater, trying to find a replacement evaporator and getting it regassed could be one nightmare too many! For now i'll concentrate on getting the air to go where it should and sort the A/C later - maybe!

Just ordered a replacement sunroof motor which should land in a few days, meanwhile those brake pads await!
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Old Aug 9th, 2016, 18:35   #30
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Well i got the rear pads done - no problems with auto-adjusters for the simple reason there aren't any!
Main reason they were sticking on was because the pistons had come so far out of the calipers on the outer half of the calipers that they wouldn't return without a 2' tyre lever to errr............ "encourage" them! Once back in, they moved freely enough in and out and the new pads went in with a bit of copper slip.

The big problem i had doing the job is the wheel nuts. They were all wrong for the car! Maybe right for an early 140, probably fine for my Jeep (with UNF threads) but no good for a car that has M12 x 1.5 metric wheel studs!
For now i have 10 Rover 800 wheel nuts holding the back wheels on, i'll find a set of shallow open nuts online at some point.

Also found the N/S/R shock is leaking, it felt a bit odd during the bounce test so that confirms it. There's also a bit of an odd noise coming from the N/S/F, maybe a bush, track rod end or similar that's a bit worn. I'll investigate that later!
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