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Old Aug 21st, 2018, 09:35   #11
Laird Scooby
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Morning Dave, interestingly what i found on my B200E seems completely different to the diagram you posted, i found part C and D but from what I felt these two parts connect to the block by a short (1 fo 2 inch) stubby hose with no sign of the black box device, the other two pipes are also quite different, it was getting dark so I'll have another look tonight and get some photos. I had all the hoses off to clean, the top hose connector on the manifold was clear, but unsure of the bottom one, i managed to get my finger in to check the first cm or so but im by no means a contortionist so thats about as good as it gets!

I did the cap trick, it stayed on well but moved around a little bit, more to do wifh vibration though i think rather than positive pressureas at idle you can see the engine moving slightly, will test again post pre-mot work.
I should have pointed out that diagram is pretty much generic Tom and applies to most redblocks but the hoses can vary in length. What you say about a short hose would be right, it was about 2" on my 740s which were all B230E engines so slightly different to yours.

Contortionism is a necessary ability when working on Volvos! It seems though from the cap test that the oil separator is clear which is a bonus. If you haven't already done it, an engine flush followed by oil/filter change will help. As for the rest, wait until you've got the dizzy cap, rotor, HT leads etc done, also check the plug gaps (0.7mm) and consider renewing the plugs unless they've been done recently and get the exhaust sorted before you go chasing your tail trying to find that elusive last bit of smoothness at idle.
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Old Aug 23rd, 2018, 21:42   #12
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I tried to get some photos of the PCR system this evening, but just couldn't see amything! Unless it really is that hidden, I donit think I have part F in that diagram Dave.#

Back to the contortionism, did Volvo really have to make it so fiddly and difficult to change a service item like a distributor cap?! So I changed it this evening, including the rotor arm and HT leads.

However, now i need HELP! The car misfires really badly... I have a suspicion. There is some kind of sensor (hall sensor?) on the bottom of the dizzy cap, that looks like it should sit in/around the lip of the distributor. I didn't notice if this was clipped in when the old cap came off, but now it's loose and the car almost won't run. Should this clip back in, or have I broken it inadvertantly? It isn't 'off' off, it is still secured by something - so fingers crossed!

I will have another go tomorrow when it's light, for most the most part this evening I couldn't see a damned thing!

Might see about getting some of the old exhaust off in the morning too, the new system should arrive before Saturday.
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Old Aug 23rd, 2018, 22:13   #13
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I tried to get some photos of the PCR system this evening, but just couldn't see amything! Unless it really is that hidden, I donit think I have part F in that diagram Dave.#

Back to the contortionism, did Volvo really have to make it so fiddly and difficult to change a service item like a distributor cap?! So I changed it this evening, including the rotor arm and HT leads.

However, now i need HELP! The car misfires really badly... I have a suspicion. There is some kind of sensor (hall sensor?) on the bottom of the dizzy cap, that looks like it should sit in/around the lip of the distributor. I didn't notice if this was clipped in when the old cap came off, but now it's loose and the car almost won't run. Should this clip back in, or have I broken it inadvertantly? It isn't 'off' off, it is still secured by something - so fingers crossed!

I will have another go tomorrow when it's light, for most the most part this evening I couldn't see a damned thing!

Might see about getting some of the old exhaust off in the morning too, the new system should arrive before Saturday.
Did you use the flash on your camera Tom? You might be surprised and the oil separator is there - it may look a bit different but it should be there. If not it would be spewing oil out like the Exxon Valdez!

I think you need to look at the dizzy cap and the Hall Effect lead that goes into it when it's light, also double check you didn't swap two of the HT leads in their respective positions - it's easily done!

There should be markings on one or other of the dizzy caps numbered 1,2,3 and 4, if you can work out which is which and which plug lead is which, make sure they're where they should be. It's confusing because it's such a strange shape, not a conventional circular arrangement - even worse with 6 cylinders on a similar design cap!
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Old Aug 24th, 2018, 08:17   #14
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Did you use the flash on your camera Tom? You might be surprised and the oil separator is there - it may look a bit different but it should be there. If not it would be spewing oil out like the Exxon Valdez!
Please note that Laird Scooby is referring to the oil tanker that devastated much of the Pacific Northwest, and NOT my Volvo 940, which merely dumped a pint of semi-synthetic onto a road in Cheshire!
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Old Aug 24th, 2018, 08:24   #15
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Please note that Laird Scooby is referring to the oil tanker that devastated much of the Pacific Northwest, and NOT my Volvo 940, which merely dumped a pint of semi-synthetic onto a road in Cheshire!
Very true - also not referring to a black Jag XJ12 that had breather problems from new that were never solved and it would leak oil in the same way as a dog marks its territory. It gained the nickname from the people that worked in the Jag dealers at the time.
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Old Aug 24th, 2018, 09:36   #16
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Ok, panic over! Last night I had managed to dislodge the hall sensor from the distributor housing and had the HT leads for cylinder 1 and 2 mixed up. I'd assumed it was 4-3-2-1, but is in fact 4-3-1-2. The idle and running is smoother now, even with a progressively more blowing exhaust!

It doesn't drip any oil onto the road so must have something there, but from any angle I try to see, I just cannot see what is there!

Old stuff.


New stuff.


Here are some photo's of last night efforts, you can see the distributor cap was in need of changing, although the contacts didn't look as bad as expected.




The rotor arm though had definitely seen better days, and really didn't want to come off! Hence parts of it broke in my attempts to remove it.


Loose hall sensor this morning, luckily all the wires appeared fine, and the connector looked quite healthy. I'll know where i'll look first though if any missfires occur in the future...


Phew, clipped back in.


Need to do the exhaust next, and rear light cluster for the MOT, then I can tackle the oily mess of the engine, hopefully a replacement rocker gasket will cure that - when it's clean it'll make it easier to spot any other leaks.

Thanks for the help and advice,
Tom.
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Old Aug 24th, 2018, 09:59   #17
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Just to make you aware Tom, the firing order is 1-3-4-2, not 1-2-4-3 - you're looking at the rotation the wrong way.

Glad you've got it sorted, chances are the misfire was caused by having leads 1 & 2 swapped rather than the lead for the Hall Sensor dangling.

If the rotor arm broke that easily during removal, it wouldn't have been long before it broke in service, probably taking the cap with it. Looking at that cap, that would have probably done you a favour though!

Little tip for doing the exhaust - don't do the nuts etc up tight until you've got all the new parts it needs fitted, then work from the front to the back, preferably with the engine idling so it's warming the exhaust up while you do it.
Not only will this make it easier to get them as tight as they need to be but also take into account the expansion of the joints and makes sure that once you've got a joint tight enough to not blow when it's warm it won't blow when it's cold and won't blow on the MoT ramp either.
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Old Aug 24th, 2018, 10:11   #18
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Thank you for all the posts and updates. I think you have taken on a challenge !!!

The vehicle has had a life of [mainly] short not fast journeys. I would hope/expect those owners offset that by making maintenance a priority. Their business is largely about dependability. But the vehicle will always live with its short journeys history.

I do try not to judge books by covers. It does sorry look as if the subsequent owners paid more attention to wheels and bonnet emblems than to maintenance? Ye heavens, the rotor arm had to be broken to remove it !!! (Yes, ye heavens I noticed that accidental wordage that I used there.)

You know that you have taken on a project. So far there is nothing truly to worry about so far as I have read. So your diligent perseverance will pay dividends. More power to your elbow.
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Old Aug 24th, 2018, 10:40   #19
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The vehicle has had a life of [mainly] short not fast journeys.
I'd question whether it had only slow journeys. Granted you can't turn up the graveside at 90mph (respect for the deceased and bereaved etc) but when the vehicle is "running light" then i think the driver is "encouraged" to give the engine a bit of exercise.

For example, some months back i joined the M11 heading south just south of Cambridge. I'd seen a Jag hearse approaching the same roundabout as i used from a different direction and when i joined the M11 proper, there were some slow vehicles in the left hand lane so i moved into the outside lane and opened the taps a bit.
As such i was moving at a reasonable speed (the local constabulary may not have agreed but there you go) when to my surprise, something black came up the inside and passed me as if i was standing still!

Only time i've been undertaken by the undertakers! He must have been well over the ton, at least it blew the cobwebs out!
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Old Aug 24th, 2018, 10:48   #20
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Quite so. Which is why one used the word mainly...
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