Redblock turbo - running problems

[TonyS9]

It shoud run well even its had a hard life, but red blocks are not refined engines. The idle is nearly always lumpy.

300 conversion issues:
Does it have the lambda light wired up?
Does it have a speed senor?

The LH2.4 doesn't like not having a speed sensor and giving full power, it punishes you with high idle.

Throttle bodies need cleaned every so often, buy a can of intake cleaners.

Idle valve can get a bit sloppy in their old age.

Make sure the disty isn't oily, best to convert to bock mounted disty or even better go distributorless, there is a conversion available.

I wanted a quiet filter for my sleeper 360 turbo, but can't find anything nice that fits.

[tofufi]

First, thanks everyone for the replies. I'm going to try to work my way through and answer as many questions as possible!

Originally Posted by mocambique-amazone

first check if this is with LH2.2 or LH2.4 (cps on top of the bellhousing)
secondly: the cam , T-A-IPD or something else
thirdly: injectors (size)
fourthly: chipped or not
fifthly: Exhaust, diameter, with catalysator or not
sixthly: Sparks, which and gap. condition and brand of the leads

Location of Engine Number
On the nearside front top of the engine block on a machined horizontal flange
IIRC the last 3 digits

1) It has a CPS so 2.4
2) No idea - googling suggests I have to remove a bearing cap to find out?
3) Part number 9186340. Google suggests these are from later engines, similar fuel output but better nozzle pattern.
4) Not a clue - how would I find out?
5) Standard downpipe, and I made the previous owner a new stainless system for it. Can't remember the tube diameter offhand, but it's got 3 silencers to keep it quiet. The downpipe does have a ding in it which won't help flow...
6) Plugs appear to be Bosch. Can't vouch for gap. Leads don't have a brand name but are silicone and appear new.

Originally Posted by mocambique-amazone

A cone directly on front of the AMS isn't a good idea....

That's exactly what it has now. Will do something about that - do you reckon routing the intake pipe a few feet across the engine back to the nearside would be bad for performance?

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Three very obvious things to check JIm, first is the condition and security of the hose between the MAF and throttle body, second is the TPS (Throttle position Switch) as it should make a microswitch when the throttle is at idle and third, clean the throttle body and idle control valve with carb cleaner.

Also if the TPS doesn't make the microswitch when in the idle position, don't immediately adjust the switch. On a normal 7/9xx there will be a white/red wire near the coolant expansion tank, taking this to earth returns the idle control valve to its closed position and you then set the idle speed at 700rpm (LH2.2) or 600rpm LH2.4) by altering the throttle butterfly. However i've come across some chimps that have simply altered the throttle butterfly to obtain a good idle when there are other faults like blocked injectors. They then haven't bothered altering the TPS to suit so it brings the idle part of the ECU into play as it should. This gives poor, erratic idle and similarly poor progression on a light throttle.

Also as others have mentioned, check/clean the falme trap, oil separator and all inlet manifold stubs for small bore vacuum pipes.

Does it have a Lambda sensor at all?

1) seems OK! It's clamped firmly at each end and has a sensor in the middle of the hose.
2) How do I tell the microswitch? I couldn't see anything immediately obvious... but I'm more used to mechanical injection or carbs

Will clean the flame traps and oil separator tomorrow

I didn't realise you could adjust idle speed on 2.4. If I read it right, I have to:
Earth a red/white wire (which end - to ECU or to engine?) and then set throttle? Correct?

Originally Posted by TonyS9

300 conversion issues:
Does it have the lambda light wired up?
Does it have a speed senor?

The LH2.4 doesn't like not having a speed sensor and giving full power, it punishes you with high idle.

I wanted a quiet filter for my sleeper 360 turbo, but can't find anything nice that fits.

No Lambda light so far as I can see. Do you know which pin output on the ECU it should be, I may be able to sort something on that.

No vehicle speed sensor that I know of - is that what you meant?

For air filter, I'm thinking a pipe back to the passenger side of the engine bay (where I have a lot of space) might work. Or relocate the battery there and use something from a production car like this:



Pipe diameters and overall dimensions permitting, of course.

[Laird Scooby]

The LH2.2 also has a CPS Jim. YOu're not meant to adjust the idle speed on an LH but if some muppet has (to get round a bad idle because the ICV is blcoked for example) then there is a basic set-up procedure. That's what the red/white wire is for.

Nearly forgot - no Lambda = 2.2, Lambda =2.4

[tofufi]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

The LH2.2 also has a CPS Jim. YOu're not meant to adjust the idle speed on an LH but if some muppet has (to get round a bad idle because the ICV is blcoked for example) then there is a basic set-up procedure. That's what the red/white wire is for.

Nearly forgot - no Lambda = 2.2, Lambda =2.4

Thanks Dave. Definitely 2.4 as I have a Lambda sensor

Will start by unblocking all the breathers tomorrow, and go from there. Easiest to start with the basics

[mocambique-amazone]

the LH3.1, called regina, is with a cps too.
the LH2.2 is without.

the 3.1 crap is more commoun at the country which trys to be great again (fail)

you can't adjust the idle at a LH2.4 .the procedure is to set the minimum idle speed.

if the speed sensor is missing the engine will dy or fail with a high idle after high speed and of accelerator.

To check if the ECU and the ICU (EZK) is chipped yo have to open them.

the cam you will find out if you remove the dizzy full and spy with a mirror. If it won't rev more than 5500rpm it will be with a T cam

good night, Kay

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by mocambique-amazone

the LH3.1, called regina, is with a cps too.
the LH2.2 is without.

the 3.1 crap is more commoun at the country which trys to be great again (fail)

you can't adjust the idle at a LH2.4 .the procedure is to set the minimum idle speed.

if the speed sensor is missing the engine will dy or fail with a high idle after high speed and of accelerator.

To check if the ECU and the ICU (EZK) is chipped yo have to open them.

the cam you will find out if you remove the dizzy full and spy with a mirror. If it won't rev more than 5500rpm it will be with a T cam

good night, Kay

LH2.2 :







On a B280E admittedly but it's a CPS on an LH2.2

The idle speed can't be adjusted but believe me, some idiots have! After cleaning the EICV because of a poo idle, it wouldn't get below about 1200rpm even when hot. The idle was even worse as well.

What is the Bosch number on the injectors Jim?



Shows where to find it.

Have you checked the output of the Lambda sensor as well? Voltmeter on 0-1V setting, should be about 0.445V on average but rising and falling as the ECU does its thing around that point (stoichiometric) - higher and it's running rich, lower and it's running lean. If it's not rising up/down and obviously running rich, suspect the Lambda has failed.

Also worth checking the cam timing and condition of the timing belt, also that the correct belt has been fitted. Some engines have square toothed pulleys, others round toothed pulleys, the belts are not interchangeable.

[mocambique-amazone]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

LH2.2 :







On a B280E admittedly but it's a CPS on an LH2.2

.

Aaah a 6 banger
I all ways forget this animals.
The only 6 banger volvo I did work on till now are k-jet (cis)

LH2.2 4 banger are without the cps

The Regina turbo are even with 2 if them

Have a nice day Dave, regards Kay

[Laird Scooby]

Thanks for clearing that up Kay!

It begs the question of Volvo/Bosch about consistency though, all other LH2.2 i've ever seen have had a CPS including Vauxhalls where a bracket and modified crank pulley was fitted to accomodate the CPS indicating that it was a retro-fit system.

If memory serves, Ford used similar items to fit the LH to engines previously fitted with L/LE Jetronic.

This was regardless of number of cylinders/engine capacity.

[tofufi]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

What is the Bosch number on the injectors Jim?



Shows where to find it.

Have you checked the output of the Lambda sensor as well? Voltmeter on 0-1V setting, should be about 0.445V on average but rising and falling as the ECU does its thing around that point (stoichiometric) - higher and it's running rich, lower and it's running lean. If it's not rising up/down and obviously running rich, suspect the Lambda has failed.

Also worth checking the cam timing and condition of the timing belt, also that the correct belt has been fitted. Some engines have square toothed pulleys, others round toothed pulleys, the belts are not interchangeable.

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the help. Lambda sensor has 3 wires (1 black, 2 white) - which should I be trying to read this from?

Injector part number, I believe, is 0 280 155 831 But I've not done a physical check on the vehicle... may be a bit busy the next few days before I can do that!

[Laird Scooby]

The white wires are the heater for the Lambda and the black is the signal wire Jim. You should have +12V with the engine running on one black wire and 0V on the other as it goes to earth. The black wire should be between 0-1V as described with respect to 0V/earth.

Also worth checking before you start what the resistance of the heater is - should be 2-3 Ohms cold and 7-14 Ohms hot. It gets up to about 350C so be careful if you do it hot!