G/box: 5 speed M47: How to improve gear change?

[Big 240]

Originally Posted by Clan

That's a symptom of a clutch drag problem . I assume it goes in nicely with the engine off...

I remembered to check this last night whilst refitting the dash pod. Yes it works lovely when engine isn't running.

Could this be due to the worn out master cylinder yoke (ovalised hole)? Or is it something I can adjust?

I am still in the learning phase of this car and the gearbox/engine etc.

[CosmicBike]

Originally Posted by Bob Meadows

For the M47 box my two manuals are quite clear in stating the oil:~
As you say M47 should use ATF type F or G.

My '88 240 has been on this for years and is correct for the car- unusual I suppose when compared with other, but the manufacturer knows the requirements so why deviate.

Worth noting previous correspondence regarding oil level etc.
The correct oil is available and will probably be "F" the supplying company previously recommended is also the one I use since being in short trousers!
Regards Bob.

I agree, mine is recommended ATF F and that's what I filled it with. Smith & Allen IIRC.

[Big 240]

I replaced the worn out yoke with a new adjustable push rod in the end. It has fixed the gear change issue, and it now feels smooth and responsive with no more difficulty getting into 1st. Happy Days.

Thread Here: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=330541

[Big 240]

So after few months and about 150 miles or so of driving I feel I may have been premature in my belief that all was well as it has gone back to bad 1st gear selection again.

Scenario is this, sitting at traffic lights, lights turn green, difficult to engage 1st. Increase revs and engages 1st fine .

Engine off gears change is normal no issues.

I have this week off and want to sort if I can. Rereading back through this thread clutch drag was mentioned as a potential issue, as when engine not running the gear change is ok. I have a hydraulic system which has been bled.

My question is, how can I diagnose that it's clutch drag, and can it be rectified? I did fit an adjustable clutch pedal yoke, could I turn the yoke a turn or two, would this help?

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Big 240

So after few months and about 150 miles or so of driving I feel I may have been premature in my belief that all was well as it has gone back to bad 1st gear selection again.

Scenario is this, sitting at traffic lights, lights turn green, difficult to engage 1st. Increase revs and engages 1st fine .

Engine off gears change is normal no issues.

I have this week off and want to sort if I can. Rereading back through this thread clutch drag was mentioned as a potential issue, as when engine not running the gear change is ok. I have a hydraulic system which has been bled.

My question is, how can I diagnose that it's clutch drag, and can it be rectified? I did fit an adjustable clutch pedal yoke, could I turn the yoke a turn or two, would this help?

With the engine idling and the HANDBRAKE on press the gear lever towards the first gear position apply some pressure the syncro cone will be trying to turn,the gear wheel, press the clutch down whilst pressing into gear firmly , hold it there turn off engine and see if it slips into first gear as the engine stops ( which it will from what you say) A new Volvo clutch kit is the only cure and follow volvos methods as the clutch is self adjusting and you need a tool to hold this back whist installing a new clutch.

[Clifford Pope]

I don't think you have mentioned checking the reverse gear lock-out stop?

In my experience that is the commonest reason for baulking first gear engagement, the easiest to check and the simplest to fix.

Next time you try to engage first, lift the button on the gear lever and move the lever over a fraction to the left and then press forwards. If it now engages smoothly, then that is the problem. Just loosen the two bolts holding the lock-out plate enough to reposition it a tiny bit.

[Big 240]

Thanks Clan and Clifford for the advice, I will indeed check what you have written.

Clifford, would the reverse lockout only be an issue with the engine running bud?

[Levonsrealm]

Under the gear stick rubber boot there is a reverse lock out plate.

On my 240 the rubber boot is clipped in in each corner.

The clips can be popped out if you have smaller hands. They need working back and forth so to not bend or break them.

The boot comes up the stick.

Then the reverse lock out plate has two 8mm bolts on it if my memory serves me well. The plate can then just be slid over in the direction that aids 1st gear selection.

This is the free solution!

Hope this helps!

[Clifford Pope]

Originally Posted by Big 240

Clifford, would the reverse lockout only be an issue with the engine running bud?

It could be - at least I can think of reasons why that might be true. When the engine is not running everythink stays in place - the slack in the gear linkage once taken up doesn't move around.
But just try it - lift the button as if engaging reverse, but just move the lever into first instead.

[Big 240]

So quick update, I had a look yesterday, removed the rubber boot and checked all was well. All secured, nothing loose.

Undid the two 8mm bolts that hold the metal guide in place, put car in 1st gear with engine running. Moved metal guide snug against the white plastic reverse lockout and tightened bolts. Because I gathered that this is where the issue was, and it needed to be guided snugly into 1st.

Took me a few attempts to make it perfect but I got there, ended up moving it off the white guide a fraction just to help with any movement. Greased it all up and away we went.

Happy days. Thanks guys for the advice, much appreciated as always.