Engine Service Required Message + Auto Box Question

[Darkerside]

Volvo V70 D5 2003 Auto

Hi

Engine Service Required

I know this has been posted on before but every post I have come across, they dont really cover my issue.

So new job and no company car, so I have to use my own

The last couple of days when I have gone to overtake, this message "Engine Service Required" has popped up on the message section (no dashboard lights) and its gone into limp mode. I must admit, 99% of the time, I drive carefully for fuel economy and its only these two days that i have need to overtake though. However, this is where the weirdness begins and the reason for my post.

I will list it by numbers, not to be rude, more so I don't end up chatting to much lol

1) Only ever does it when I first go to over take and put my foot right down.
2) Pull in, Switch off/turn on, message goes and out of limp mode.
3) Overtake again - Nothing/Normal

So I thought tonight (26/11/2019) I would take it out, less forcused on wanting to get home.

1) Engine still hot, so took it up my hill, accelerated, message comes up, so top of the road, turn off and back on - message gone.
2) Drove it to a fast road we have (70mph) on the way, tried everything I could (safely). Foot hard down (standing start), bursts of acceleration and on the fast road, foot flat down till I hit 70mph (of course). With no cars behind me and one in the distance, I could slow down and go hard at it, but try as I might, all that way and back home, nothing.



*Engine has been serviced (est) 2000 miles ago - Oil + Oil Filter + Air Filter etc - Not fuel filter though
*Engine has a chip, one of those that connects to the injector rail
*Ticks over on 7000 rpm with no stutters etc
*No real smoke comes out of back under accel (Checked tonight in headlights of cars behind) although from standing start at traffic lights as best as I could see, nothing that i could really notice at all.
* Oil level seems fine - 2000 miles since service and its still close to max (hard to tell on that dipstick though)
* Water level not moved

I cleaned the EGR valve due to emissions service message, it was blocked and muck was stopping the EGR valve from opening, never come up since. I did use proper cleaner and I brought a brush, by the time i had finsished, it was spotless.

Under normal driving condition this message never comes up just the first time i put my foot down, but honestly, putting my foot down is rare.

I am at a real lose to be honest, is this just that engines character and nothing to worry about?



Automatic Transmission

First ever auto I have owned and it seems weird (Newbie to autos though)

Its the 5 speed version but it feels like 3/4/5 have two gears

When driving, I have counted up the changes, (this doesnt happen always) but when I think I am suppose to be in a gear, I flip to manual and its not, i.e. suppose to be in 4th, still in 3rd.

The gear changes are smooth (I guess - no experience lol) no clucking, rough changes, depending how I drive depends on the change, slow and easy, very smooth almost unnoticable, going up hill, you do notice the change a little more, but not rough, just can feel the change. Kick down is something I can't get use to as you have to press the accel right down, then 2 seconds or less later it changes and your off.

But sometimes, it changes into 3rd and then changes again (smooth though), but I am still in 3rd, there is no loss of pulling (Not like if I was slipping a manual clutch in my old volvo when I changed into gear)

I have tried the manual side and this is where it confuses me. If I change from 2nd to 3rd at low revs, it changes with what feels like no issue but if i do it at slightly high revs, it changes and then changes again. I know with my old Volvo V70 Manual, 2nd too 3rd was always the biggest rev drop, if i wanted to pull, I would have to go up high in second.

I read that these boxes have a torque convertor???

But my question is, is this normal?

Sorry for my poor explaination but thank you in advance for any help

[stegreg]

as for engine issue....have you tried disconnecting the fuel rail box, see if it cures the glitch....worth a try being as its only a single plug connector jobby.

I have a 5spd geartronic and that's a smooth changer. but does not go to 4th till driving over 35 - 40 mph, as for 5th...that's a 50mph job too. it does like to "hover" between 2nd and third when travelling around 30mph, just a pity the early models don't have actual gear "digit" on the dash.

[petey]

‘Auto’ boxes come in three types generally; titptronic which where there’s computer control of the clutch and servos take care of moving dogs about, effectively replacing your gear lever. PDK/DSG and similar systems are versions of these but so is the Aston Martin and Ford Transit single clutch systems.

The second is a CVT; continuously variable transmission, and somewhat old hat by 2003. Biggish cone gears are connected to smallish cone gears via a belt or staple chain, and the cones move closer together (get bigger) or further apart to give an infinite range of gear changes. These transmissions are usually connected to the flywheel by a centrifugal clutch almost identical to what you’d find in a 50cc Honda Melody. Think Volvo 340, Daf Variomatic or Fiesta Mk3. However, hybrid vehicles are making a bit of a comeback with them, starting with the Prius....

Far more common, and absolutely standard in 2003 is the epicyclic transmission which doesn’t move cogs around and doesn’t need a gear lever at all, it’s largely just for show and consistency. Bands and (unfortunate repetition of naming convention) clutch packs engage and disengage due to hydraulic pressure and this brings about the gear changes. There’s few ‘moving’ parts, it’s more about pressure application.
(The logo on the BBC’s Top Gear is a clutch plate from a clutch pack!)
The epicyclic transmission is connected to the engine by a torque converter. This is basically a pair of fans in a bath of oil so that when one spins (the engine one) it encourages spin in the second one (effectively the input shaft to the gearbox).
As you pick up speed, the torque converter become redundant as there’s no need for slippage, but you’re always getting some, around 3%. This is purely wasted fuel, but it does work to provide a more rapid warm up. To beat this, there is another clutch pack inside the torque converter and this locks up once there’s no risk of a gear change, the fluid’s warm and you’re over the engine speed where slippage might be required. This locking up is often felt as a gear change, but it’s more a 9/10 of a gear becoming 10/10.
The clutch needs to release before the next gear change else the engagement of clutch packs and bands will cause a hefty thump through the driveline.
Additionally, the transmission recognises that pulling away in high torque conditions places the biggest loads on the bands and packs and so the internal hydraulic pressure is highest at pull away. If you’re expecting it, it is potentially possible to the trained ear to detect a slight pull-back on pressure which reveals itself as a little surge forward as the transmission has less to do.


In short, there’s loads going on, coupled with the fact that the instrumentation is designed to tell you what they want to tell you, it’s rarely actually connected to anything. For example, if you drive a Porsche with their Siamese PDK gearbox, when it changes up, the Rev counter leaps to the new lower engine speed, long before the engine ever gets there, giving the impression of a seamless shift with no fraction of a gap at all. Measure the engine speed yourself and you see quite a considerable difference between what’s indicated and what happens. This is no accident. Similarly, the gearteonic display will say whatever it fancies, there’s no absolute reason it has to correlate with reality (although why volvo would ever exaggerate or deny something so daft is quite beyond me).

[S60D5-185]

Originally Posted by Darkerside

Volvo V70 D5 2003 Auto

Hi

Engine Service Required


The last couple of days when I have gone to overtake, this message "Engine Service Required" has popped up on the message section (no dashboard lights) and its gone into limp mode.
*Engine has been serviced (est) 2000 miles ago - Oil + Oil Filter + Air Filter etc - Not fuel filter though

Definitely start looking here.

Those symptoms are typical of a dirty fuel filter on a D5.

If you change it and it hasn't fixed it you have not wasted money, just changed something that should have been changed anyway.

[dave c59]

VIDA. Get it plugged in to give you a definitive solution. As said above, temporarily unplug the chip and change the fuel filter ASAP.

[Darkerside]

Thank you for such a response.

So in short the Auto Box numbers are liars lol. It explains what i am feeling and makes sense, so ty petey for that explaination and ty again for taking all that time.

S60D5-185 - I haven't changed it, and cant find a change on the service history, although everything else has been covers correctly, oil change, cam belt etc. Its silly really as a Mahle Fuel Filter which they claim is an OEM one used in Volvos is only 15 odd pounds.

It says that the type is a paper style filter, looks like a bigger version of my oil filter (for want of a better explanation) lol.

Would I be correct in assuming that this desiel has pre ignition pump, unlike my old Direct injection, so after i have swapped filters, turning on the igntion and waiting a few seconds, then turning off, doing this maybe 4 of 5 times will help prime the new filter?

One again ty for all the help

[barrybritcher]

tuning box will be maxing out the injectors, i tried this on a mondeo - no substitute for a real remap

[Darkerside]

Originally Posted by barrybritcher

tuning box will be maxing out the injectors, i tried this on a mondeo - no substitute for a real remap

I thought of this but I brought a box with 2 stage mapping, and 5 settings on each. The 1st stage (if you can call it that) even at max (5th position) still keeps injectors below its max parameters and mine is only on stage 3, so 1-3

Stage 2 - postion 3 is where they say that the injectors go beyond the safe point. I just wanted a bit more bottom end pull, not trying to make it goes a lot faster, just a bit more bottom end torque, so kept it at 1-3.
**This is from the setting sheet supplied by them, not me having a guess lol**


I just found out the fuel filter was changed around 80,000 miles ago and it seems the D5 likes it changed around 24-30k according to other Volvo owners.

Since my last post, it never did it and I overtook hard a few times, but today it did it twice. However one thing was very sure, today I did a lot of driving and when it did happen, my tank was almost empty, I never normally take it below 1/2 tank, but work has been manic.

I will change it over xmas

Can anyone tell me where I will find it, was told it was at the rear offside in a plastic container, is this correct?

Forgot to say, if it happens with new filter, then I will DC the box but the way it is driving at the moment, it feels like it doesn't want to get up and go, like the fuel is just being held back, sorry not the best of explanations, but its just recently I seem to have to put my foot down more to get the same results, especially at slow speeds or pulling off, and it burns, coughs up nothing.

[S60D5-185]

Originally Posted by Darkerside

I just found out the fuel filter was changed around 80,000 miles ago and it seems the D5 likes it changed around 24-30k according to other Volvo owners.



Can anyone tell me where I will find it, was told it was at the rear offside in a plastic container, is this correct?

.

Look on the floorpan about 10 inches forward of the rear offside wheel.

Early ones had a metal canister type,

Later is a black plastic canister with a paper element filter inside.

I change mine every year.

[Darkerside]

Thank you S60D5-185

So I am on the hunt and spoke to some spare part places but all of them tell me this is the one I need (Pic Below)

But looking on youtube, it shows a Mahle Fuel Filter KX226D

picture of container I have under car is on the next page